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Thread: Everest DD66000 Going Active

  1. #16
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    Because of the high sensitivity of the driver/horn combination, you will need to get a tube amp with very low noice.

    Go for a push pull amp with some muscle. EL34 and the like will give you about 10-20 watts in class A. EL84 will give about 5-10 watt. Choose an amp with only two end tubes per channel, an amp with two EL34 is better than an amp with four EL84.

    I believe the DEQX has FIR filters. If so you can build a phase linear system. It will sound fantastic.

    Mårten

  2. #17
    Senior Member audiomagnate's Avatar
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    The first thing I would do if i could afford a pair of 66000s would be to lower the crossover between the 476Be and the 045Be-1 down into the the audible range. Supersonic crossover points don't make sense to me, and I would think the improvement in dispersion up at the top would make an audible improvement.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    How loud in dB do you typically play your speakers?


    Widget
    I dont know the exact DB - but I use the 700W very often.
    of course mostly when the wife is out.

    I must admit that I love when the Everest really kick ass
    It's an awesom speaker..

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    Because of the high sensitivity of the driver/horn combination, you will need to get a tube amp with very low noice.

    Go for a push pull amp with some muscle. EL34 and the like will give you about 10-20 watts in class A. EL84 will give about 5-10 watt. Choose an amp with only two end tubes per channel, an amp with two EL34 is better than an amp with four EL84.

    I believe the DEQX has FIR filters. If so you can build a phase linear system. It will sound fantastic.

    Mårten
    Hi Mårten.
    Thank's for the input - I will look that way

  5. #20
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    If you come to Stockholm I will introduce you to one of the most talented tube amp builders around. :-)

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    If you come to Stockholm I will introduce you to one of the most talented tube amp builders around. :-)
    dont tempt me - I might just do that

  7. #22
    Senior Member spkrman57's Avatar
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    Low wattage tube amps

    I only use single ended tube amps for my horns. Currently I'm using EL34 SEPentode with 200WPC sand amp for the the bottom.

    Most single ended amps are pure class A and will loaf along in fractions of a watt most of the time.

    My favorite SETriode amps use 45 or 2A3 tubes and sound beautiful!

    Just my 2 cents worth!

    Regards, Ron
    JBL Pro for home use!

  8. #23
    Senior Member LowPhreak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audiomagnate View Post
    The first thing I would do if i could afford a pair of 66000s would be to lower the crossover between the 476Be and the 045Be-1 down into the the audible range. Supersonic crossover points don't make sense to me, and I would think the improvement in dispersion up at the top would make an audible improvement.
    I've often wondered about that too about JBL on some of these models. They have their reasons but even 12-15kHz would seem reasonable. Then I might have a chance to hear that expensive driver I'd paid for.

  9. #24
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian DK View Post
    I dont know the exact DB - but I use the 700W very often.
    of course mostly when the wife is out.

    I must admit that I love when the Everest really kick ass
    It's an awesom speaker..
    I would go with a 20-40 watt amp then. Even though the mid driver is very sensitive you will still want more than a couple of watts assuming you take my advice and keep the speaker stock and continue to use the built in passive compensation filters.

    Even with the HF driver's sensitivity lowered due to the passive networks you will still only need this level of power even when clipping your Krell as most of the acoustic energy in music is at the lower frequencies... especially below 200-250Hz.


    Widget

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    I would go with a 20-40 watt amp then. Even though the mid driver is very sensitive you will still want more than a couple of watts assuming you take my advice and keep the speaker stock and continue to use the built in passive compensation filters.

    Even with the HF driver's sensitivity lowered due to the passive networks you will still only need this level of power even when clipping your Krell as most of the acoustic energy in music is at the lower frequencies... especially below 200-250Hz.


    Widget
    Widget, you have lost me

    When I DONT biamp the Everest, and use only my Krell.
    Then I send 700W into BOTH top and buttom.

    But if I Biamp and still use the internal X-over, then I only need 20-40W.??
    How is that?
    If I understand it korrect, then the leveltrim is still on right?

    I would asume that the 20-40W is only when I connect direct to the driver with no level trim.?

    I hope it's not a stupid question, I am just lost.

  11. #26
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    You will need an amplifier with the same amplification ratio as the Krell. But since most energy is needed in the bass you don't need that much energy for high frequency.

    If using the compensation part of the passive filters try to avoid using any resistive dampening parts.

    I would try the DEQX auto calibration mode outdoors with only the passive filter between the supertweeter and horn in place.

  12. #27
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    I would try the DEQX auto calibration mode outdoors with only the passive filter between the supertweeter and horn in place.
    Nice in theory...

    Have you tried moving Everests? Their shape and weight makes them a real pain to move around... and the design with the sharp corners makes them prone to damage.

    Beyond that I have used DEQX's auto calibration. I don't think it will generate a curve as accurate as the curve Greg Timbers created in the big JBL anechoic chamber.


    Widget

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian DK View Post
    Widget, you have lost me
    I am assuming you would continue to use your Krell amp as the bass amp, DEQX as the crossover and a new 20-40 watt amp for the high frequencies.

    Read the DD66000 owner's manual. It will tell you how to do this properly.


    Widget

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Nice in theory...

    Have you tried moving Everests? Their shape and weight makes them a real pain to move around... and the design with the sharp corners makes them prone to damage.

    Beyond that I have used DEQX's auto calibration. I don't think it will generate a curve as accurate as the curve Greg Timbers created in the big JBL anechoic chamber.


    Widget
    Now I understand why they are called flagSHIP speakers .

    Maybe it is possible to manually make the same curve in the DEQX?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    Maybe it is possible to manually make the same curve in the DEQX?
    I'm confident an expert DEQX user and master at taking measurements could do this. I'm also confident that very few DIYers will match or better the passive filters.


    Widget

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