Driver should be making sound, not energy in the mounts. The driver should be mounted as firm as possible.But I would still love to hear a technical analysis of the isolastic driver mounts.
Great find Macaroonie!
The isoelastic glue should be used between two sheets of same thickness for maximum efficiency. Vibrations are damped by generating heat in the glue.
Exactly this .Originally Posted by more10
My second turnable was the Ariston RD 40 :-) http://www.vinylengine.com/library/ariston/rd-40.shtmlBack in the day when I was at Ariston
Cool. RD 40 was very good but it had far too many machined parts in it for the price it sold at.
I worked to reduce the parts count and hence cost across the range , it's amazing how much you can strip out without reducing performance. At the same time Q Board appeared and we incorporated that into various designs. We laminated batches of board with the VE adhesive supplied from QLN in Sweden.
I had a budget prototype similar to a Rega in format , using Q Board for the plinth. It surpassed the much more complex RD80 by a scary amount. It became the RD50. Most of the things that made the RD50 work were incorporated into the RD80 although visually you would hardly know. Here's a RD50/60 The line around the plinth is where the VE adhesive is. You can't quite see where the arm mounting collar has been eliminated
Simple things , for example the arm pillar used to be made with a mounting collar that then bolted on to the deck's mounting plate. We binned the collar ( making the Jelco arms cheaper incoming 500 at a time ) and machined the arm mounting plate to incorporate the pinch screw for the arm pillar. Got rid of the cork gasket also.
Result was a worthwhile improvement in clarity.
In production every penny counts and if you can reduce costs AND improve quality then , you are a winner.
I was messing about with Q board for chassis inside the suspended decks with some success , the RD 110 was in need of a re vamp. I left for the US before I got to that.
Sorry about the thread Hi Jack
I went through my little archive of paraphernalia I've collected over the years and came across a KEF brochure showcasing the Series2 105. They do in fact claim improved transient performance with this system. It would be nice to have a series1 to compare.
It's all pertinentCool. RD 40 was very good but it had far too many machined parts in it for the price it sold at.
I worked to reduce the parts count and hence cost across the range , it's amazing how much you can strip out without reducing performance. At the same time Q Board appeared and we incorporated that into various designs. We laminated batches of board with the VE adhesive supplied from QLN in Sweden.
I had a budget prototype similar to a Rega in format , using Q Board for the plinth. It surpassed the much more complex RD80 by a scary amount. It became the RD50. Most of the things that made the RD50 work were incorporated into the RD80 although visually you would hardly know. Here's a RD50/60 The line around the plinth is where the VE adhesive is. You can't quite see where the arm mounting collar has been eliminated
Simple things , for example the arm pillar used to be made with a mounting collar that then bolted on to the deck's mounting plate. We binned the collar ( making the Jelco arms cheaper incoming 500 at a time ) and machined the arm mounting plate to incorporate the pinch screw for the arm pillar. Got rid of the cork gasket also.
Result was a worthwhile improvement in clarity.
In production every penny counts and if you can reduce costs AND improve quality then , you are a winner.
I was messing about with Q board for chassis inside the suspended decks with some success , the RD 110 was in need of a re vamp. I left for the US before I got to that.
Sorry about the thread Hi Jack
Btw, it looks like the RD 40 hi jacked my Oracle Alexandria
Alexandria is one of my favorites. You got the stock Sumiko arm ?
Mine was the first iteration of the Oracle, bought back in 78'. I don't have it anymore. I got it with an FR-14 and Dynavector Ruby. Played it through a pair of Meridian 105 monos, also first iteration, into the Kef 105s. Great set-up.
Curious what you ended up doing?
I'm still at the drawing board. I don't think I will go isobaric because I don't want to look at the back side of the drivers. The other way presents a heat issue. I presented a rough sketch on another thread. Coincidentally, it's similar to Champster's with tapered sides.
If you dont mind a giant subwoofer you can always do a PPSL slot loaded design. BUT these drivers need a LOT of room. SO probably 500 liters or so for a 24hz or so tune. This would be a pair of 2245's in a single cabinet.
me likey Chrap!!!!
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