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Thread: L 110 woofer issues

  1. #1
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    L 110 woofer issues

    I have had a pair of L 110 since 1983 and they have performed flawless until now apart from refoaming the woofers three years ago, after that they worked well again.
    Now the woofers have stopped working or rather they don't move, I seem to feel some vibration but not enough to make them move no matter how much power I add.
    I've tried to measure all the components in the crossover, the only abnormality are the inductors which seems to show less readings than I have read they should.

    Pretty new at trying to troubleshoot, any advise would be more than welcome.

    Carsten

  2. #2
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    The voice coil must be stuck in the gap. Due to mis-alignment, foreign material, failed adhesive, or overheating. Surprisingly, it looks like official kits are still available. So you could have a professional recone job done.

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    Clarification to the above

    Thanks for your reply Don

    I can now see that I need to clarify what I meant with them not moving.
    The woofers actually move freely without any noise or resistance when moving them manually, but when playing they do not move as they used to do, i.e. no visible movement of speaker cone.

    Hence my suggestion that it may be the inductors.

    regards

    Carsten

  4. #4
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    Oh. Can you hear sound coming from them? If not, in this situation, you should get a multimeter and check the continuity of the voice coil.

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    Test results

    Hi again Don

    There're sound coming from both woofers.

    Also we tried to measure both woofers, they read between 5.2 and 5.3 ohms which I think is within the normal range.

    So that seems to be ok?

    regards

    Carsten

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    Just recently I bought a 112H that had failing tinsel leads that resulted in erratic behavior, sometimes it worked... I was actually able to excavate the old tinsel & put in some fresh stuff to salvage the speaker.
    Tinsel seems to be made of something other than just metal so it doesn't have to appear physically broken for it not to work right. You might want to carefully play with the tinsel leads while running an amp directly to the woofer to see if there is any issue them.

    Also, Deoxit is the vintage electronics owners friend. Spritz some of that in the high & mid level pots & on slip on connections and wiggle them gently.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    If there is sound, how does it sound? If it sounds OK, I wouldn't worry that the woofers don't move much. Check every speaker by putting your ear right in front, and check everything about the rest of your system. How are the L-pads set? If they are turned up all the way, the woofer might sound like it's putting out too little in comparison to the midrange.

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    Sound weak

    Hi again Don

    There's sound coming from the woofers, it's weak sound but clear, i.e. we can hear the music, it's not distorted or so. I've checked the other components as well, they're fine.
    The L-pads are at half setting both for the tweeter and the midrange.

    The problem is that there's no bass whatsoever, they normally produce a really good bass with a lot of movement of the cone, now it's just weak music coming out and no bass. I'm not sure as to when this started, they're in my son's room and he plays a lot of games on his pc with the sound going though an amp to the speakers.

    We recently hooked up a record player and that's when I discovered the problem.

    pretty much at loss to what could be wrong.

  9. #9
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Try pulling the woofers and connecting the speaker wire directly to each woofer... run the wires out through the ports and screw the woofers back into place. The speakers won't sound right but they should have bass and significant output. If this is the case then the problem is with the crossovers... possibly the L-pads, caps, or wiring. It is highly unlikely that the inductors failed, but it is possible.

    Give this a try and let us know what you discover.


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    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    A turntable is a special case, requiring the correct pre-amp input to sound right. You are hooked to a specific Phono input with a RIAA pre-amp in the system? Could you try a CD player for a while?

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don C View Post
    A turntable is a special case, requiring the correct pre-amp input to sound right. You are hooked to a specific Phono input with a RIAA pre-amp in the system? Could you try a CD player for a while?
    Excellent point.

    I had assumed that your woofer problem was universal. If you have only discovered it while playing records then your turntable isn't connected to a phono preamp.

    FYI: There are a number of AVRs, receivers, and integrated amps that have an input labeled "phono", but it is actually only another "Aux" input as they do not have an internal phono section with the proper cartridge loading, RIAA curve, and adequate gain. Check your owner's manual. It will tell you if you need to add a phono section.


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    Feedback

    Good evening guys

    So I tried to run the woofers directly from the amp after fitting them back into the cabinet. They seem to work ok, still not a very heavy bass as I remember but much better than running them through the crossover.

    I was aware of the requirement for a preamp for the recordplayer, also we have tested them running a CD.

    So what I gather from this is that it's likely that the problem is the crossover. So I guess that I have to start measuring the individual components in the crossover?

    Thanks so much for your help so far

  13. #13
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    Capacitors tend to fail far more often than inductors, though either is possible. Tell us if you serial number on the foilcal ends with the letter A or not, and we can look up the correct schematic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don C View Post
    Capacitors tend to fail far more often than inductors, though either is possible. Tell us if you serial number on the foilcal ends with the letter A or not, and we can look up the correct schematic.
    They end with an "A" and I have the schematic for that. But thanks for your offer anyway, much appreciated.
    Now I'm just wondering if you can measure the individual components while they're still on the crossover or do I have to take them off one by one and resolder them afterwards?

    regards

    Carsten

  15. #15
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    You can probably check gross operation of the components in that section by disconnecting the woofer.
    Coils approximating a short and capacitors having very high resistance (once charged).

    Checking component values with precision while in-circuit is a fools errand, however you only need
    to lift (disconnect or unsolder) one 'leg' of a component to take it out of circuit.

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