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Thread: how to fix this capacitor bracket

  1. #1
    Senior Member pyonc's Avatar
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    how to fix this capacitor bracket

    Hi friends,
    Due to poor packing by the seller from abroad, the capacitor bracket and fixed washers were partly broken, as seen in the pics.
    I see the brown insulator lock washers(?) on the front two capacitors were broken, and they're shaky and loose.When tested, the unit (JBL SE408S) worked fine, though.
    I checked it with a technician, and he said he would dissemble the bracket and use some sort of firm spacer to make it secure.
    He added he would keep the capacitors intact, as they work fine.
    Any better idea on securing them on the casting?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Sheet of phenolic and a scroll saw?

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    They come in a variety of sizes and types (and from more than a few vendors)
    A.E.S. would be my #1 choice though
    They should have the size and style you need

    This listing is but one example:
    https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H120

  4. #4
    Senior Member pyonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    Sheet of phenolic and a scroll saw?
    Hummmm.... It's not that simple to me. What about the wiring underneath the capacitors?

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    Senior Member pyonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    They come in a variety of sizes and types (and from more than a few vendors)
    A.E.S. would be my #1 choice though
    They should have the size and style you need

    This listing is but one example:
    https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H120
    Thanks for the useful tip, Wagner! It looks almost the same. Again, I'm a novice in this field, and I've never changed the capacitors by myself. When I look under the capacitors, I see some wiring soldiered into them. So, it's not that simple job, I think. I checked with the technician on this this afternoon, he said he would dissemble the capacitor brackets and make them secure with the original phenolic insulators intact. He mentioned $130 (labor, part) for this job.

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    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Sorry Pyonc. I need to learn to keep my yap shut.
    All I saw was broken looking insulators. I'm sure
    you're in good hands.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pyonc View Post
    Thanks for the useful tip, Wagner! It looks almost the same. Again, I'm a novice in this field, and I've never changed the capacitors by myself. When I look under the capacitors, I see some wiring soldiered into them. So, it's not that simple job, I think. I checked with the technician on this this afternoon, he said he would dissemble the capacitor brackets and make them secure with the original phenolic insulators intact. He mentioned $130 (labor, part) for this job.
    It is a simple job, just might be tight and require a bit of time

    Well of course you'll have to get the cap out of the way in order to replace the insulator

    If the insulator is all there, just broken.............OR you have all the bits you could just tack everything back in place with some silicone adhesive or contact cement...............just be careful not to bang them around

    There's at least 1/2 a dozen ways to secure a multi-section to a chassis

    Insulators are used for different reasons; as long as there is enough material there to prevent the can from shorting to the chassis you could always have this done at some later date while some other work was being done

    I've seen worse; just augment what you have and make sure there is no contact/stabilize as needed (this is another issue you have which we can only guess about)

    Just make certain that none of the WIRE connections underneath can/are allowed to short to metal

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    Quote Originally Posted by pyonc View Post
    I checked with the technician on this this afternoon, he said he would dissemble the capacitor brackets and make them secure with the original phenolic insulators intact. He mentioned $130 (labor, part) for this job.
    Not exactly certain what that means................but what needs to be done, if you are going to hire someone to do it is:
    Select and purchase the CORRECT insulator and replace the broken one

    There is no reason to patch broken originals when new insulators are readily available for every multi-section configuration that I am aware of

    If you're contemplating a patch job, then just patch it yourself as I suggested above

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    Senior Member pyonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    It is a simple job, just might be tight and require a bit of timeWell of course you'll have to get the cap out of the way in order to replace the insulator If the insulator is all there, just broken.............OR you have all the bits you could just tack everything back in place with some silicone adhesive or contact cement...............just be careful not to bang them aroundThere's at least 1/2 a dozen ways to secure a multi-section to a chassis Insulators are used for different reasons; as long as there is enough material there to prevent the can from shorting to the chassis you could always have this done at some later date while some other work was being done I've seen worse; just augment what you have and make sure there is no contact/stabilize as needed (this is another issue you have which we can only guess about)Just make certain that none of the WIRE connections underneath can/are allowed to short to metal
    Thanks a lot, Wagner. If it is simple enough just to remove the capacitors and then put the insulators back, I think I can do that. Just take a look at the pics as attached. Underneath the capacitor, I see some wiring soldiered out there... What do you think?
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyonc View Post
    Thanks a lot, Wagner. If it is simple enough just to remove the capacitors and then put the insulators back, I think I can do that. Just take a look at the pics as attached. Underneath the capacitor, I see some wiring soldiered out there... What do you think?
    You can certainly do it if you can use a soldering iron and a Phillips screw driver
    About a 30 minute job + or - 10 minutes

  11. #11
    Senior Member pyonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    You can certainly do it if you can use a soldering iron and a Phillips screw driver
    About a 30 minute job + or - 10 minutes
    Oh, I'd rather leave it to the experienced tech's hand. Thanks again, Wagner!

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