044ti vs 066 tweeter in 4313b

[aj_chicago]

Newbee here. I recently found a pair of jbl 4313b studio monitors for cheeeeeeeeeap! However, (there's always a however) both 066 tweeter domes are pushed in. Both meter a little over 2 ohms resistance, but at least not infinity! That is somewhat less than the other drivers, (LE10-H's and LE5-9's were 4+ ohms). Does a 2+ ohm meter reading sound OK for the 066's? I have not hooked up the speakers to the system yet due to "issues".... woofers in process of refoaming (one almost down, one to go), had to repair the cone on one of the midranges. I'm praying. If the 044's don't work I was wondering if they can be directly replaced with 044ti's (with no mods)? They look like they might with the three mounting screws. I know there are those who think this would be a sin, but there are also those who prefer the sound of the 044s vs 066s and the 066s are not very available, especially on a budget. I doubt my ear could tell a difference.

[BMWCCA]

Newbee here. I recently found a pair of jbl 4313b studio monitors for cheeeeeeeeeap! However, (there's always a however) both 044 tweeter domes are pushed in. Both meter a little over 2 ohms resistance, but at least not infinity! That is somewhat less than the other drivers, (LE10-H's and LE5-9's were 4+ ohms). Does a 2+ ohm meter reading sound OK for the 066's? I have not hooked up the speakers to the system yet due to "issues".... woofers in process of refoaming (one almost down, one to go), had to repair the cone on one of the midranges. I'm praying. If the 044's don't work I was wondering if they can be directly replaced with 044ti's (with no mods)? They look like they might with the three mounting screws. I know there are those who think this would be a sin, but there are also those who prefer the sound of the 044s vs 066s and the 066s are not very available, especially on a budget. I doubt my ear could tell a difference.

I'm confused. First you say your 044 domes are pushed in and then you ask about 066 DCR. Which do you have?

[aj_chicago]

I'm confused. First you say your 044 domes are pushed in and then you ask about 066 DCR. Which do you have?

I sure did. Slip of the brain. The 066's that came in the 4313's are pushed in and I want to know if they are "no mod"-replaceable by 044ti's. I also, somehow, I guess I did not check the right spot to follow this thread cuz I just had to search for it after wondering if anyone had responded... no email. I can't find anywhere to state/check a box to say to follow this. Isn't it a default to follow your own posts and get email notification? Thanks.

NEWS: I did find the Thread Subscription Default box and changed it from the default "not to subscribe." I wonder if that will take effect for this thread?

[Aaron]

The biggest roadblock is the size difference: the 044 variants require a larger hole.
I have a set of L96s with 4313B crossovers in them & they sound about as good as anything I've heard.

[aj_chicago]

All components seem to work fine on the first one. Waiting for glue to dry on the other midrange (coffee filter) repair and other woofer surround. Sounds good on low volume! Acid test in the morning!

[aj_chicago]

The biggest roadblock is the size difference: the 044 variants require a larger hole.
I have a set of L96s with 4313B crossovers in them & they sound about as good as anything I've heard.

Thanks, Aaron. That's what I needed to know. Could see the 044s slid in the hole and mounted with three screws just like the 066s, but could not tell the size of hole or space between screws. Thanks, again. Hope the other tweeter works as good as the first! .... and the midrange repair.

Boy, the dirt sure shows in the pics! Got some cleaning up to do. These were stored in a filthy house for MANY YEARS before I rescued them. I mean, when I walked in I did not want to touch ANYTHING! Just wanted to get 'em and get outa there! Screens are in good shape, too!

[aj_chicago]

Anyone ever matched the blue paint on these with something available? Have a few paint chips I'd like to fix.

[macaroonie]

Anyone ever matched the blue paint on these with something available? Have a few paint chips I'd like to fix.

The color code that is a very close match is RAL5007 . It seems that Sherwin Williams are unable to mix this so can them.

Otherwise any competent color mixer should be able to run up that color for you. It might need a little tweaking to match the existing paint which is now 40 years old. Better to paint the whole front IMO.

[Aaron]

If your midrange repair doesn't sound right, I would think about getting a pair of LE5-10s. They would complete the L96 driver complement assuming you use the non ti version of the 044. I would recommend going this route just because I know it works and it was recommended to me by member 4313B...funny how that works out eh?

As for enlarging the tweeter hole, I'd lay down a 1/2" thick board with a 5.5" hole already cut in it over the tweeter opening (to clear the grill pegs) and use a router & rabbeting kit like the one at the bottom of this link:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...it_rabbet.html

[macaroonie]

Another option for your HF is to drop in a pair of 2405's and alter the X/O to match what's going on in the 4315.
Your mid with the repair will bug you of course , easy enough to find tidy replacements.

[aj_chicago]

If your midrange repair doesn't sound right, I would think about getting a pair of LE5-10s. They would complete the L96 driver complement assuming you use the non ti version of the 044. I would recommend going this route just because I know it works and it was recommended to me by member 4313B...funny how that works out eh?

As for enlarging the tweeter hole, I'd lay down a 1/2" thick board with a 5.5" hole already cut in it over the tweeter opening (to clear the grill pegs) and use a router & rabbeting kit like the one at the bottom of this link:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...it_rabbet.html

That sounds like work with tools I no linger have, but wish I still did. Was looking for a 'drop-in' alternative. Thanks.

[aj_chicago]

The midrange repair was a good one! I have never done that before, but coffee filter paper does the trick and when you saturate it with glue and spread it on and smooth it out it takes on the form of the cone beneath right down to the little paper dimples! It was pretty amazing. It did not all dry clear and there are white patches. I need to touch it up with a fine mist of flat black spray paint and I think it will be hard to see the repair. The problem is... I know it's there. Sooner or later I will probably look to replace them. And for the purists... I know.... the glue changes the stiffness of the cone and "compromises" the sound and still sounds great! Lol.

I played them at some volume this morning. Couldn't wait. Haven't played with the l-pad dials much, just turned them to zero/flat. Everything sounds really good, repaired cone, pushed in tweeter domes, and all! I have a pair of Smaller Advents (that I love) to compare to. Will have to play for a while with things and see what I think, but with the prejudice of a resurrection job.... these sound great now! Old Englished the cabinets and did find a pull in one grill that I pulled to the inside. I did not realize that that material is DARK BLUE! I've always had a problem telling the difference, but with sunshine on them I could see the grills were blue, too. So far, so good!

[aj_chicago]

Another option for your HF is to drop in a pair of 2405's and alter the X/O to match what's going on in the 4315.
Your mid with the repair will bug you of course , easy enough to find tidy replacements.

I'm pretty happy with the repair, but ya.... it still bothers me knowing it's there.

[BMWCCA]

Have you tried taking the tweeter apart and pushing the dome out from behind? There's a thread on it there somewhere. I'd be happy to look for it but you seem to have far more spare time than I have.

[aj_chicago]

Have you tried taking the tweeter apart and pushing the dome out from behind? There's a thread on it there somewhere. I'd be happy to look for it but you seem to have far more spare time than I have.

Most of my time is spare. Well I saw some discussion on that. Not sure if it was the thread you are remembering. Thing is, opening mine up would take drilling out rivets.... no screws. That is a task I will pass on. I also saw some discussion on "being very careful" or damage may occur. And another post that referred to the process and ended "cross you fingers that it still works." Someone was able to build a suction device with a large syringe attached to a suction cup which would be held over the cavity with the dome in it. Ingenious! I could not find a suction cup or syringe at Home Depot. I'm still thinking about it. I have an idea that I laugh at when I think of, but it just might work! It takes a device that I don't have and whose discussion might get censored out. I'm also thinking about trying the vacuum at the car wash. My lady came up with that one. Hey, where you goin'? Oh, I'm goin' to suck tweeter domes out at the car wash.