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Thread: Bi-amping Tips/Options on L7's?

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    Member gmarascortt's Avatar
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    Bi-amping Tips/Options on L7's?

    Hello....I just purchased a mint set of L7's for $100. Placement aside, I have read these work/sound better if you bi-amp them. I have never attempted this before.
    (1) Can I run 1 amp split to both speaker high frequency's and 1 amp split to each speakers low frequency?? This would allow me to use 2 different rated amps. Is this even possible??
    (2) Or do I split 1 amp per speaker?? This route, presumably I would have to use 2 of the same exact amps.

    I have many Crown amps to choose from, so either configuration would be possible.

    I have also read somewhere that there is an internal switch on one of the crossovers that can also help the performance of these speakers.

    Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Geno
    Last edited by gmarascortt; 04-18-2015 at 10:52 AM. Reason: spelling error
    250Ti, 18Ti, L77, L96, L112, L36, 4412, Control 29 AV, Altec: 1204B, 9849-8B, 511 Towers, 7 SeriesII

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    Not exactly what you're asking, but you may find this thread interesting: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...s-breakthrough
    Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002

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    Member gmarascortt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fpitas View Post
    Not exactly what you're asking, but you may find this thread interesting: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...s-breakthrough
    Thanks fpitas! I have read this thread, but I don't understand most of it. I am just looking for basic hookup options.
    250Ti, 18Ti, L77, L96, L112, L36, 4412, Control 29 AV, Altec: 1204B, 9849-8B, 511 Towers, 7 SeriesII

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    Here's a good primer on the subject: http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

    I haven't fooled with the L7, but you should realize that passive crossovers seldom obey textbook filter curves, and are often built with EQ for the drivers. Not to scare you, but good results may take some effort.
    Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002

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    I did a little reading on the L7s; they're 4-way, meaning you'll be quad-amping each one if you go fully active. Just wanted you to be aware of that.
    Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002

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    Here's a link to the L7 manual I saw online. Didn't look in the library, however. I think this will explain what you want to know. On the last page, there is a reference to a small modification necessary to bi-amp. I think I've seen it, but can't remember. Maybe a plug is pulled separating the different parts of the crossover. As stated, you'll need an external crossover. The biwire options described may be what you're after.
    http://www.manualslib.com/manual/284...L7.html#manual

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    There's an internal blue jumper wire in the crossover that separates the LF from the rest, effectively bypassing part of the passive crossover. You'll need an external electronic crossover to make this work though.

    Vertical versus horizontal bi-amping is really your choice but I prefer to use more power on the LF section which leads me to a horizontal setup, ie. the two channels of the LF amp feed the two LF drivers (R&L) and the HF amp feeds both HF sections.

    I'll look for the L7 thread in which the secret of the jumper wire was revealed and the designer replied. It was an inspiring conversation.

    Ahh, this is a great place to start: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post130101

    And, further along, start here and be sure to read down into the next several posts for some answers from Chris:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post177549
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    There's an internal blue jumper wire in the crossover that separates the LF from the rest, effectively bypassing part of the passive crossover. You'll need an external electronic crossover to make this work though.

    Vertical versus horizontal bi-amping is really your choice but I prefer to use more power on the LF section which leads me to a horizontal setup, ie. the two channels of the LF amp feed the two LF drivers (R&L) and the HF amp feeds both HF sections.

    I'll look for the L7 thread in which the secret of the jumper wire was revealed and the designer replied. It was an inspiring conversation.

    Ahh, this is a great place to start: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post130101

    And, further along, start here and be sure to read down into the next several posts for some answers from Chris:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l=1#post177549
    Kudos for finding the appropriate posts! I actually went through about the first 15 pages of that thread thinking that was where I'd seen the information. Then, I gave up.

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