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Thread: Compact monitor

  1. #61
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    I was looking at some long set-screws. Like Mcmaster 94355A548
    Seems like the hex would make them easy to install. But I haven't tried them.

  2. #62
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    I was thinking the same thing. Thanks!

  3. #63
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Hi

    For the adapter plate I used 8 pcs M6 machine screws MF6S M6x45mm. These are normally hex socket but mine were Philips. They are countersunk 90 degrees and with flat head.

    http://nfgab.se/en/fasteners/2_socke...ews-iso-10642/

    For the driver I bought a 3 fot long 1/4" threaded rod and just saw off the studs I needed with a bow saw. The JBL standard driver studs are too long. I measured the depth of the thread in the driver, added thickness of the adapter plate and added about the thickness of a nut and a washer + 5mm.

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    I made a bunch of shorter studs while I was at it.

    The old studs can be difficult to get out from the driver. Don’t use a screwdriver, it will only damage the stud. With the driver on its “back”, use two nuts and inter lock them at the top of the stud with two wrenches and with the upper nut locking the lower nut you can unscrew the stud using the lower nut.

    Mount the new shorter studs in the same way but reversed order.

    Kind regards
    //RoB
    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  4. #64
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don C View Post
    I was looking at some long set-screws. Like Mcmaster 94355A548
    Seems like the hex would make them easy to install. But I haven't tried them.
    I've been going that route with acorn nuts for years now... it is the simplest way to reach into the back of a cabinet and install a driver.


    Widget

  5. #65
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Lots of interest here... Just ordered a pair of horn/flanges. Will likely try 1500al before deciding on obtaining 2216Nd (or subsequent versions thereof) Many thanks to those who continue to share their work and interest!

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don C View Post
    I was looking at some long set-screws. Like Mcmaster 94355A548
    Seems like the hex would make them easy to install. But I haven't tried them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    I've been going that route with acorn nuts for years now... it is the simplest way to reach into the back of a cabinet and install a driver.


    Widget
    After checking the local hardware store I went ahead and ordered the set screws from McMaster. Thanks for that link!

    Quote Originally Posted by sebackman View Post
    I just got some additional guides. That is good news.
    After messing around with the stock M2 flanges I suspect that I would prefer your flanges.

  7. #67
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    After messing around with the stock M2 flanges I suspect that I would prefer your flanges.
    probably an improvement, and possibly less $$. Was easy (short term) to just click on the box...
    oh well

  8. #68
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I can probably have more made at a reasonable price. PM if of interest. They are alu so shipping cost are minimal.

    Kiind regards

    // RoB
    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  9. #69
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks Rob!

  10. #70
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Always more fun with pictures...
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    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  11. #71
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Here is the adapter.
    Kind regards
    //RoB

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    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  12. #72
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    Robert,

    Thanks a lot for that picture!

    It looks like there is just enough room to bolt the holes on the 114mm diameter circle.
    What about the 82.5mm one?
    It looks like the holes will be difficult to reach behind the adapter/horn holes, and the horn angle will not help.



  13. #73
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    By the way, what is the use of that particular part of the waveguide here?
    Why not just chop it off, as it was not part of your original adapter plate?
    Is it there only to ensure correct positioning?

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  14. #74
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebackman View Post
    For the driver I bought a 3 fot long 1/4" threaded rod and just saw off the studs I needed with a bow saw. The JBL standard driver studs are too long. I measured the depth of the thread in the driver, added thickness of the adapter plate and added about the thickness of a nut and a washer + 5mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by 4313B View Post
    After checking the local hardware store I went ahead and ordered the set screws from McMaster. Thanks for that link!
    What length did you order?

  15. #75
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    I ordered forty M5-0.8 x 40mm to mount the horns to the baffle and the adapter plates to the horns, a bit long for the adapter plates to the horns I suppose but as sebackman pointed out, those holes are ~ 50mm deep.

    I also ordered ten 1/4-20 x 1" of the studs with the allen head drive.

    I can see why G.T. didn't want to bother with bolting a 476 to one of these waveguides I did it but it took some jiggling of the nuts to get them on the studs through the narrow slots.

    I left the plastic wrap on the waveguide until I get ready to bolt it to the baffle.
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