I was looking at some long set-screws. Like Mcmaster 94355A548
Seems like the hex would make them easy to install. But I haven't tried them.
I was looking at some long set-screws. Like Mcmaster 94355A548
Seems like the hex would make them easy to install. But I haven't tried them.
I was thinking the same thing. Thanks!
Hi
For the adapter plate I used 8 pcs M6 machine screws MF6S M6x45mm. These are normally hex socket but mine were Philips. They are countersunk 90 degrees and with flat head.
http://nfgab.se/en/fasteners/2_socke...ews-iso-10642/
For the driver I bought a 3 fot long 1/4" threaded rod and just saw off the studs I needed with a bow saw. The JBL standard driver studs are too long. I measured the depth of the thread in the driver, added thickness of the adapter plate and added about the thickness of a nut and a washer + 5mm.
I made a bunch of shorter studs while I was at it.
The old studs can be difficult to get out from the driver. Don’t use a screwdriver, it will only damage the stud. With the driver on its “back”, use two nuts and inter lock them at the top of the stud with two wrenches and with the upper nut locking the lower nut you can unscrew the stud using the lower nut.
Mount the new shorter studs in the same way but reversed order.
Kind regards
//RoB
The solution to the problem changes the problem.
-And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder
Lots of interest here... Just ordered a pair of horn/flanges. Will likely try 1500al before deciding on obtaining 2216Nd (or subsequent versions thereof) Many thanks to those who continue to share their work and interest!
probably an improvement, and possibly less $$. Was easy (short term) to just click on the box...After messing around with the stock M2 flanges I suspect that I would prefer your flanges.
oh well
Hi,
I can probably have more made at a reasonable price. PM if of interest. They are alu so shipping cost are minimal.
Kiind regards
// RoB
The solution to the problem changes the problem.
-And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder
Always more fun with pictures...
The solution to the problem changes the problem.
-And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder
Here is the adapter.
Kind regards
//RoB
The solution to the problem changes the problem.
-And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder
Robert,
Thanks a lot for that picture!
It looks like there is just enough room to bolt the holes on the 114mm diameter circle.
What about the 82.5mm one?
It looks like the holes will be difficult to reach behind the adapter/horn holes, and the horn angle will not help.
By the way, what is the use of that particular part of the waveguide here?
Why not just chop it off, as it was not part of your original adapter plate?
Is it there only to ensure correct positioning?
I ordered forty M5-0.8 x 40mm to mount the horns to the baffle and the adapter plates to the horns, a bit long for the adapter plates to the horns I suppose but as sebackman pointed out, those holes are ~ 50mm deep.
I also ordered ten 1/4-20 x 1" of the studs with the allen head drive.
I can see why G.T. didn't want to bother with bolting a 476 to one of these waveguides I did it but it took some jiggling of the nuts to get them on the studs through the narrow slots.
I left the plastic wrap on the waveguide until I get ready to bolt it to the baffle.
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