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Thread: New JBL waveguides, #5006812 90x50 vs PT-F95HF

  1. #31
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    Hi Rob, thank you for posting an interesting review about M2 and VFX.

    I'm in NY, can I still hear them?

  2. #32
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    Thank you very much RoB for your complete answer.

    I think a good choice could also be the horn of the VTX M serie. But I cannot find the reference of this horn. I will revert if I find it

    Regards,

    Guillaume.

  3. #33
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    Sorry if it's been mentioned and I missed it. What is the recess for on the adapter plate? Is it necessary? If it is, the drawing and the note on scale has me a bit confused...is it 1mm, or 6mm deep? I'm guessing 1mm, since the the overall plate thickness is 7mm and that would leave just 1 mm thickness. Or, is it intended to bring the CD as close as possible to the guide?

    Also, the 38mm center hole...equals 1.496" "Merican" It looks like I'll have to try and make these myself, will it make a difference if I cut a 1.5" hole?

  4. #34
    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    An't jack difference between 1.496" and 1.5". That's .002" on the radius.
    I made an adapter out of 1/2" mdf and milled it all out using a router. Basically I laid my bolt circle, drilled the holes for the driver studs, drilled my center pilot hole for my jasper jig, used the router with jig to mill out the area for the horn flange approx 3/16" deep or more if you want a gasket and then drill the 1.5" center hole last. Then you have to notch the horn flange to fit the larger bolt circle and since the flange fits flush in the adapter you just use some large washers under the mounting nuts. It ends up adding 1/4" to the depth of the driver on the horn but it sounds fine.

    But just go get some 2450SL because there is a bunch of them on Ebay right now for $129 ea + shipping and they are nice! Much easier solution lol!

  5. #35
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    I've already got 2447s with new Aquaplas diaphragms, and like them very much. Plus, I need 5, so I'd rather not spend $850 for different CDs if I don't have to.

    So, based on your adapter description, the idea is to make the center of it thin to bring the CD as close as possible to the guide. I figured the small difference between 38mm and 1.5" wouldn't matter, so I'll be taking a crack at making my own.

    Anyone else have any thoughts or tips? Was hoping Rob(sebackman) would chime in, since he sort of pioneered this whole thing.

  6. #36
    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    I totally get "use what you have". I have a pair of 2447s too but I sure don't like the idea of a 23 lbs driver on the back of that little horn because it seems flexy enough with a 10 Lbs 2450SL.

    I added a few pictures. I designed it to support the driver as you can see but have now gone to 2450SLs. The milled down area is a bit rough for the horn flange area because I was winging it trying to make it but I've since figured out how to do a better job!
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  7. #37
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    Is there a build thread on those? Looks interesting.

    Yes, they're heavy, and bracing to support the weight was in the plans. Thanks for the photos, they're very helpful. In fact, they sort of confirm a thought I had, and that is that an adapter may not be needed.

    My idea is to cut 4 notches in the flange to allow the larger diameter CD bolts to clear it, then use washers, or, 2 piece clamshell type ring to sandwich the flange with it and the driver. This places the driver right up against the guide flange, with no setback. I couldn't find any photos to help illustrate this, but imagine a large washer, cut in half to make 2 half circles. Drill holes in each half in the CD mounting bolts locations. Sandwich the flange between the CD and the half round washers, then bolt it all together. If done right, the notches for the bolts would assist in locating the CD center on the flange, and a thin gasket would help keep it from sliding or shifting out of alignment...

    ...and, having just thought all that through, I can envision a way to enlarge the guide flange using either wood or PVC flat stock and some epoxy, then simply drilling the holes needed and bolting the driver on directly. Time to get some ordered, and it looks like they're on sale right now

  8. #38
    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    Yep. When I was 1st messing with these I just notched the horn flange and just used washers, not very pretty though. I thought about the clam shell idea too. Or you can make a plastic ring to enlarge the flange and glue it on plus maybe an alum 1/8" backing plate glued to the back of the whole flange to support it all.

    No build guide on my speaker but have been thinking of it. It's my center for my home theater system.

  9. #39
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    I'm afraid that the adapter affects the flare rate.

    http://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/tn_v1n21.pdf

  10. #40
    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    It added 6 mm to depth of the throat but I agree I suppose. But like I said, it sounded fine and I felt I needed to support the weight of the driver. Thinner metal plate would be better.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebackman View Post
    If the new VTX F12/F15 is a third iteration is an open question as JBL has not posted “Exploded Views” for them yet.
    Has anyone come across the exploded views? Would appreciate a copy posted or a link.


    EDIT: Ah, haven't searched for awhile but think these will suffice:

    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/VTX%20Series/VTX_F12_REV_A_0915.pdf

    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/VTX%20Series/VTX_F15_REV_A_0915.pdf

    Dave

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwedge View Post
    It added 6 mm to depth of the throat but I agree I suppose. But like I said, it sounded fine and I felt I needed to support the weight of the driver. Thinner metal plate would be better.
    Many people still prefer older drivers with a snout than modern snout-less ones, so the thick adapter can be an improvement.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M View Post
    Many people still prefer older drivers with a snout than modern snout-less ones, so the thick adapter can be an improvement.
    Except when it isn't. Depends on the driver/horn combo.

  14. #44
    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    Just so you know, bolting on a 2447 to that wave guide is equal to having a 3/4" to 1" spacer, compared to a 2450sl or other newer drivers.
    Don't want to cut out the screen to be exact but the phase plugs on my 2447s look to be about an inch back where as the 2450sl, 2451 and newer it is flush with the screen. 6mm sounded fine and the same without it.

  15. #45
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    Question

    Hi all,

    Does anyone know the exact layout of holes for mounting stx825 horn (5006815)?
    Thanks.

    Mica

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