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Thread: Help Reconing LE20-1 in LE14C

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    Help Reconing LE20-1 in LE14C

    Anyone have any experience reconing the LE20 tweeter in the LE14C coaxial speaker? I can't figure out how to do it.

    Thanks,

    Eric M.

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    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Here's a new one .

    OK , If your driver looks like this the wax seals conceal the heads of screws , since there is no other obvious fixture I would set about removing the screen mesh and then see what you have. I suspect that the pleated suspension spider will need removed.
    Lets see a pic of what you have once the mesh is off.

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    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Here's LE20's bare. The inner 3 screws look like they coincide with the wax seals and the mesh trim ring. I suspect that the outer flange may have been reduced for the LE14c. Or not ??
    It may be that it sits under the pleated spider allowing jointing on to the magnet assembly.
    If this is the case the spider will need to be removed.
    MEK will dissolve the adhesive but you need to be sparing as it will dissolve other adhesive joints as well.

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    This is how far I got before realizing I need help. I removed the screen and cut out the cone. I have not removed the inner black spider on the exterior of the cone, but can pull it back a bit to see what's going on under it. Not much, I see the wires that connect to the outside of the LE20 housing and that's about it. It looks like there is a space between the LE20 housing and the magnet of the LE14 but I can't find any screws holding it in nor can I put it out. I'm not even sure if the LE20 is suppose to come out as a unit, but if it's to be reconed, it has to. I was really hoping for a You Tube video showing it being removed! No such luck. If I figure this out, I'm going to post one up for the next guy trying to figure this out.

    Thanks,

    Eric M.
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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    How are the tweeter leads brought out to the terminals on the frame? That has to be a key factor when you re-cone. How do the tinsel leads attach to the tweeter VC??

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    As a general rule anything that has been assembled can be dismantled , all you need to know is the sequence and the materials involved.
    I think you need to dissolve the black spider off at the outer edge.
    Q tips & MEK bit by bit work your way around. Might take a while but it won't mess up the white cone coating.
    Once off you should have a better view of whats goin on.

    Just go round the edge of the spider dabbing MEK on to the outer edge of the spider. The MEK will wick through and dissolve the adhesive.
    As it comes loose i would use toothpicks to hold the edge oway from the adhesive line to stop it sticking back down .

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    Yes, good point. The leads go from their terminals, through the woofer (just like the low frequency leads do) but pass over the voice coil and attach to 2 terminals on the tweeter housing. On the inside of the housing there are 2 solder pads (opposite side of the terminals) that the leads from the voice coil solder to. I can't figure out how you would connect the leads with out removing the tweeter. The other thing I didn't see when removing the cone, was the spider. There was some sort of foam on the underside of the cone that may have acted like a spider. Hard to tell since I could not see before removing the cone.

    I may call Simply Speakers on Monday and ask to talk to the guy who does all their reconing videos.



    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    How are the tweeter leads brought out to the terminals on the frame? That has to be a key factor when you re-cone. How do the tinsel leads attach to the tweeter VC??

    Rob

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    Unhappy

    You might be right. But I can't see what I'd do after that move. There isn't any sort of screws under that black spider, I'd hate to risk damaging it if It doesn't need to be removed. I'm pretty sure that one can't be replaced.
    I'm really hoping someone will see this who has done it before and will give directions. Like you said, if it went together, it should come apart .... just need t figure out how!

    This process desperately needs a video. I bet it's simple ... just can't figure it out




    Quote Originally Posted by macaroonie View Post
    As a general rule anything that has been assembled can be dismantled , all you need to know is the sequence and the materials involved.
    I think you need to dissolve the black spider off at the outer edge.
    Q tips & MEK bit by bit work your way around. Might take a while but it won't mess up the white cone coating.
    Once off you should have a better view of whats goin on.

  9. #9
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Well the installation of the LE20 may well take place before the installation of the bass cone. The final piece to be installed would then be the outer spider.
    Having said that in general ( again ) JBL were pretty good at facilitating servicability.
    Maybe not in this case.
    Still think you gotta get that spider off.
    Q Tips , MEK , dab it on to the outer rim of the spider , it will wick through to the adhesive. Once you have a bit released use tooth picks to keep it apart and move on round. Have a little fan running to blow the fumes away from you.

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    I'm going to give it a little longer before jumping into that. I'm holding out for that person who has done it to post up and spell it all out. I'll push this one aside for a few days, maybe make that call to Simple Speakers on Monday and if no one can tell me, I'll remove that black spider and post a few pictures.

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    I believe both Subwoof and Edgewound have been through the JBL reconing training. You might want to reach out to them and see if either of them has any specific information on this driver.


    Widget

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    Thank you much!
    I'll PM both.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    I believe both Subwoof and Edgewound have been through the JBL reconing training. You might want to reach out to them and see if either of them has any specific information on this driver.


    Widget

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    Anyone else have any experience with these?

    Thanks,

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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Here this might help. Do a Google image search

    http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_LE20-25.htm

    Rob
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    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Thanks,

    Both the link and your pictures help. Did your JBL cone kit shown in the pictures come attached to the metal plate making this sort of like a diaphragm which you just drop in and screw in place?
    Macaroonie may be right, I need to remove the outer spider to access all this. I just can't see the screws under the spider.


    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    Here this might help. Do a Google image search

    http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_LE20-25.htm

    Rob

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