JBL110s

[macaroonie]

Re Stands , you will probably need no less than 15" height , more like 18". Your method as shown will end up a bit clumsy to achieve that height. Can I make a general suggestion for you.

MDF is quite good for stands as it is non resonant. Using 18mm sheet make 2 bases the width of the speaker but square , giving a bit more front to back stability.
Make 2 pillars of the appropriate height , laminate 4 or 5 thicknesses to give you about a 4" x 8" section , nice end beefy. Make 2 top plates slightly less than the base of the speaker.
Add any edge chamfers etc and paint black as per the norm.
Your suggestion of foam will not work well as the speaker will be unsteady. I would recommend either sorbothane pads ( e bay ) or spikes.
Also for the base I would recommend spikes on a threaded insert to allow you to square up the whole set up. Spikes give a good solid non resonant mounting. E bay again.

look here , pretty standard stuff , well proven ....

https://www.google.com/search?q=MDF+...w=1024&bih=650

[Jobrewer1983]

The following is from their respective JBL Instruction Manuals:

Per the Power Capacity section the L110A's are rated for use with amplifiers of 10 watts continuous sine wave per channel up to 250 watts continuous sine wave per channel. The L110A Specification section listed the Maximum Recommended Amplifier Power as 250 watts per channel.

Per the Power Capacity section the original L110's were rated for use with amplifiers of 10 watts continuous sine wave per channel up to 150 watts continuous sine wave per channel*. The Specifications section of the original L110, listed Power Capacity as 75 watts continuous program, (which is not the same as continuous sine wave or RMS), the footnote stated that this rating was based on a laboratory test signal and to see Power Capacity section for amplifier power recommendations, which was previously stated.
*The explanation in a footnote in the Power Capacity section stated that it should be noted that many amplifier manufacturers use the term "watts rms" as a direct equivalent to the more meaningful "watts continuous sine wave."



Larry

Thanks Larry,

Also, Thank you for all the good information provided on AK, it was a huge help. I can honestly say, the L110A's handle the 160 watts that i'm driving them with very well. The more they are used, the more I fall in love with them. The craftsmanship is so much nicer than anything I have ever owned. The crossovers are a thing of beauty, they have such great sound separation. Nothing like clearly hearing the bass line with fret buzz, that's pretty impressive. They bring out sounds in some of my albums that I have never realized were there. And, you really can listen to them all day without listener fatigue... I know, I have tried.

Absolutely my favorite JBL's, I'm so glad I did not swap the 1250 for the L96's, I also had someone wanting to trade for a set of L100's, they needed a new woofer, but I decided against that as well. I've had the opportunity to demo the L100's and they do sound Amazing, but I have to say, I'd keep the L110A's over the L100's any day. I'm a fan for life..

I need to track down some L150A's, ill bet they would be a great match with the L110As. Maybe one day id be so lucky!

Again, Thank you Larry,

John.

[Jobrewer1983]

Re Stands , you will probably need no less than 15" height , more like 18". Your method as shown will end up a bit clumsy to achieve that height. Can I make a general suggestion for you.

MDF is quite good for stands as it is non resonant. Using 18mm sheet make 2 bases the width of the speaker but square , giving a bit more front to back stability.
Make 2 pillars of the appropriate height , laminate 4 or 5 thicknesses to give you about a 4" x 8" section , nice end beefy. Make 2 top plates slightly less than the base of the speaker.
Add any edge chamfers etc and paint black as per the norm.
Your suggestion of foam will not work well as the speaker will be unsteady. I would recommend either sorbothane pads ( e bay ) or spikes.
Also for the base I would recommend spikes on a threaded insert to allow you to square up the whole set up. Spikes give a good solid non resonant mounting. E bay again.

look here , pretty standard stuff , well proven ....

https://www.google.com/search?q=MDF+...w=1024&bih=650

Thanks macaroonie,

I ended up cutting down some 4x6's, they will get them off the floor for now. Going to stain them dark walnut. They are nothing special, but they get them off the floor.

The foam I will use is designed for sound and static, Its not your standard packing foam, or really a foam.. More like a rubber/foam. I will use it in thin strips on the rear lip for wood protection. It will help with some vibration, but not all. I don't have a brand name for the foam, but I can get the name for you. Its not the pink foam in the back ground... It's an adhesive foam used to dampen sound vibration for massive generators. Works quite well, basically quarter inch dynamat, just better quality. I found a few squares of it a while back, and snagged them. I'm limited on what I have, but it should be enough for the stands.

The Spikes are a good idea, I am pretty sure I have a few sets in one of my tool boxes. If i remember correctly, I have a wood pair and a brass pair. I know I've never used them, because I only have one set of each... Adding one wood set and one brass will look funny..

Thank you for the Link, while I understand I should have them off the floor a good foot or two, I feel it would look funny. I will go with 7-8" off the ground with a slight tilt. I know its not ideal, but I like the style better. Just personal taste really

Again, great information, I will be sure to keep the pictures posted, and any feedback is always greatly appreciated!

Thanks again

[Jobrewer1983]

Good Morning Lansing Folks,

Hope all is well, I have yet to finish my makeshift stands, but hope to have them completed this morning. Once I have them done, I plan to upload an HD video to YouTube. I will post the Link on the thread. On to the good stuff..

The reason for the post:

This last weekend my fried James who is also an avid collector sent me a text with the below picture of the L-150's. He stated that he found them at a yard sale for $50.00. He knows I have been looking for a set of the 150s for a while, and we have made many trades/barters over the past few months. Sometimes he gets the better of the deals, and other times I do. He is a stand up guy, and has a vast network of people who wheel and deal in vintage audio gear. He always finds the best stuff, he recently sent me a picture of a set of Sony SSM7s that he picked up, and got them for next to nothing. While i'm not a Sony fan, the SSM7's are pretty impressive. He has a side business dealing with vintage gear, I recently unloaded a few sets of the Klipsch KG2 on him for a lower end Yamaha EQ, I needed the room, and I knew he could make some good cash on them, they were flawless. I wanted to play around with and EQ for the 1250 to see if it would make any sound improvements, and could not use the KG2 due to them being 4oms. I did not want to run a speaker selector or duel receivers, so he got the the good end of this deal.

He has the same idea as me, if it dose not look new, or can be brought back to new, it's not worth the time.. All of his gear is mint, or it's sent to the good will. I can honestly say he probably has the largest inventory in CA, I don't think he knows it though.. He currently has a few hundred sets of Vintage speakers, and who knows how much hardware amps, receivers ect...

Nonetheless, he stated that he needed some work done on a Sansu Au-717, and if I conducted a Dexo-it and checked for any bad caps, he would give the L-150's for me for free... You better bet your bottom dollar that I am taking this deal. I have already downloaded the service manual, the PCB's look pretty accessible, he said that there is power issue, and the PS will need to be checked. I told him I would rebuild the whole PS if needed..

He lives a few hours away, but I will be taking the trip early next week. They do require new foam, and some good cleaning. He said the crossovers will need to be looked at, but he only has fifty dollars into them, and knew I wanted the 150's, and would match my L110's.

If I do end up with them, I will start a new thread. I'm sure I will have many questions regarding the crossovers, and would love any advice.

Thank All, and have a great Thanksgiving!

[Jobrewer1983]

Good Morning Lansing Folks,

My friend dropped them off today. He said they were in good cond., he was right... They are a good 8 out of 10. The grills have a little spot on them but nothing that cant be repaired. He picked them up in LA a few weeks back for a whopping $50.00. I will start a new thread once I start the restore process.

The site is not allowing me to key in text for some odd reason, I will post the link to the new thread once I have it stated.

My friend James gave them to me for what he gave for them, and some amp work. I will be cleaning a Pioneer SX 880, and a Sansui AU 717. The pioneer will require less work, than the Sansui, but over all a grate swap on my end. I need to get him on AK, and Lansing sites, he is a huge collector. He wheels and deals vintage gear, and has a warehouse full of some of the coolest gear..

Nonetheless, I will be starting the restore once the new foams arrive

Thanks All!