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Thread: 4344 BUILD, and some questions for the pros :)

  1. #31
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    Cpl more pics.. Getting going on the divider network
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  2. #32
    Senior Member ivica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlwitherell View Post
    Ok, another newbie question. Anyone have a good link to good 3mOhm resistors? I picked some up locally but the leads are hair thin and I'd like something a little more robust if possible. Martin's above appear to be beefier, but maybe it's just the pic?
    Hi ,
    Why so many wooden nuts for the binding post plane, and how do plan to mask them?


    ivica

  3. #33
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    The t-nuts are designed to go inside ?

    Rich

  4. #34
    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    I think the 3 Mohm you have is ok. There is no current through them.
    43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII

  5. #35
    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    Exactly, my resistors are indeed beefier but in comparison I'm using 0.3mm2 wire with sillicone insulation because it's very supple.

    My networks are more tricky to build as I don't have the correct cap values available in EU (At least, I can't find them).
    So for example for my 2x36uF (I build 3155 networks) I have to use 4x18uF (2x parallel and then in series).

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivica View Post
    Hi ,
    Why so many wooden nuts for the binding post plane, and how do plan to mask them?
    ivica
    I was going for the industrial look? Yeah, when drilling them I figured it may be overkill. Ah-well, if the worst mess up is having to unscrew/screw a couple extra bolts when needing to remove the plate, I'll call it a win.. Just going to paint over them.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
    The t-nuts are designed to go inside ?

    Rich
    I know, but my plate is hard plastic and, although I didn't try, it seemed that it'd be too difficult to get them installed correctly into the material. I figure no biggy, just have to remove woofer to access, which I'd have to do anyway if I for some reason needed to remove the plate.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odd View Post
    I think the 3 Mohm you have is ok. There is no current through them.
    Ok, thanks - I guess I'll run them! Thanks Odd.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin2395 View Post
    Exactly, my resistors are indeed beefier but in comparison I'm using 0.3mm2 wire with sillicone insulation because it's very supple.

    My networks are more tricky to build as I don't have the correct cap values available in EU (At least, I can't find them).
    So for example for my 2x36uF (I build 3155 networks) I have to use 4x18uF (2x parallel and then in series).
    Thanks for clarifying. Man, that's a bummer, these networks are challenging and time consuming (and large) enough as it is!!

  10. #40
    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    It's because those are American coil/cap values

    I bought Jatzen Crosscaps (nothing really fancy but good as a starting point) and they don't have the values like 36uF, 3.6uF or even 2uF.
    Even the coils were actually a special order.

    I decided to take the route - "Just follow the schematics, trust the one who designed it and it will be all good"

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin2395 View Post

    I decided to take the route - "Just follow the schematics, trust the one who designed it and it will be all good"
    I totally get it. I've read somewhere that "close counts" when it comes to cap/inductor values, but I'd do the same thing and just make it right

  12. #42
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    Running into some confusion regarding the 2420 driver. Was ordering some radian replacement 8ohm diaphragms from parts express, when received they measure 3.9 and 4 oHm respectively. I do see that there are many drivers listed as 16 ohms on ebay, but which measure in the 6 to 8 ohm range, which is what I thought the 8 ohm diamphrams should measure. I am building giskards (I posted earlier in this thread) designed crossover and just wondering if these are the right diaphragms or not? All of my L-pads are new, and 8 Ohm. Thanks!

  13. #43
    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlwitherell View Post
    Running into some confusion regarding the 2420 driver. Was ordering some radian replacement 8ohm diaphragms from parts express, when received they measure 3.9 and 4 oHm respectively. I do see that there are many drivers listed as 16 ohms on ebay, but which measure in the 6 to 8 ohm range, which is what I thought the 8 ohm diamphrams should measure. I am building giskards (I posted earlier in this thread) designed crossover and just wondering if these are the right diaphragms or not? All of my L-pads are new, and 8 Ohm. Thanks!

    You measure the DCR, the value is normal for 8 ohm driver.
    Crossover is designed for 16 ohm driver. Can they be exchanged for 16 Ohm?

    If to remove the 20 ohm resistance after the L-pad I think it will work with 8 ohm.

    Maybe 4313B can explain.
    43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odd View Post

    If to remove the 20 ohm resistance after the L-pad I think it will work with 8 ohm.

    Maybe 4313B can explain.
    That's what I was thinking, well, they're sending me ones that presumably read 8 ohms. But I guess I'm still not sure if this is correct for the crossover schematic and an 8 Ohm L-Pad (the crossover design does indicate 8 Ohm L-pad, but does that consider the diaphragm at 4 or 8 ohm??)

  15. #45
    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    You need to stop worrying so much.
    Schematic is correct, many with a lot of knowledge, has built this before you successfully.
    43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII

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