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Thread: JBL LE14 new surrounds assistance needed

  1. #1
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    JBL LE14 new surrounds assistance needed

    I have a pair of LE14Cs I am attempting to refoam. I purchased the kits from Rick Cobb. When I went to remove
    the old lansolay surround, the aquaplas coating on the edge of the cone came up with it - see image. I stopped. I could go
    ahead and pull it all off but the new foam I got from Rick will only extend about 6mm onto the top edge of the speaker
    cone and about 9mm would be needed to cover the area of the removed aquaplas coating and look right.

    I emailed Rick and he suggested that many of the LE14s had the surround mounted on the back. I also have a pair of LE14As and the lansolay is identical and mounted on the front. I suppose I could mount on the back and leave the old ring of lansolay on the top, though would look a little odd. Also when I dry fit the new foam it appears that it would force the speaker cone down if mounted on the top; certainly this is true with the old lansolay "ring" left but appears this would also be the case if mounted on top with the ring removed. (The thickness of the paper cone and the old lansolay appears nearly identical).

    Rick indicated the new surrounds he provided are the only ones available.

    When I cleaned the old adhesive off from the metal frame edge, I was able to use MEK which worked great. But I am hesitant to use any solvent to try to remove the old lansolay surround from the paper cone. Is there a way to remove the old lansolay and leave the aquaplas coating?


    Any input from those that have done this before would be greatly appreciated as to the best way to proceed, especially
    those that have used Rick Cobb's kits on LE14s.
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  2. #2
    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    It may be a little late now, but as I recall I softened the lansaloy with something that also softened the glue it was mounted with, and then it's adhesion to the lansaplas was less than that of the lansaplas to the cone.
    "Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini

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    Posted redundantly for some reason during an edit.

    Sorry

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    Continue to use MEK and Q-tips
    Work slowly
    Keep dampening the old surround with MEK using the Q-tip
    Keep the frame on an angle so the MEK doesn't go where you don't want it to and you can, if CAREFUL give that old surround a pretty good soaking

    BUT, let the liquid evaporate before you start manipulating the old stuff and glue

    If you saturated the old surround and give it some time it will almost fall off under it's own weight but again it requires patience

    It will come off clean and leave the Aquaplas intact

    But again, the trick is to go slow and focus on an inch or two at the time

    You will get the hang (find a groove) as you go as to how much and how much if that makes sense

    When you lift the white it means you're moving to fast

    The MEK will not disturb the Aquaplas on it's own, it's the mechanical part that does (rubbing, pulling scraping etc)

    You can do small touch ups with this:
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...er-base-primer

    I have used it very successfully to give life back to a pair LE14s that had literally been turned dark brown from decades of cigarette smoke and no grilles (they were pulls from a bar system)

    Thin it out 50% or better and just apply a mist over the cone with an airbrush. The most dificult part is masking off the dust cap. DO NOT spray on a heavy coat if you do decide to go this route or you'll screw with the total mass of the cone, just a mist to make the color look nice again. Takes very little, this material covers extremely well.

    Good luck, they'll come out fine. I've 6 of these woofers and they all came out well, only the bar room specials required painting!

    And install your new foams on the front of the cones. This was how Zilch instructed me to install them on mine for best results.

    Zilch never gave me anything but good (and correct) advice.

  5. #5
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    The Lansalloy will never come off without damaging your cone's coating if it's as dry as it appears in your pictures

    It's stuck too darn well

    *Edit addendum:
    Sorry if this post was misleading. I meant it in the context of what your surround looked like in the photo. I did not intend to convey the incorrect meaning that the material could not be successfully removed.
    Sorry for any misunderstanding.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    The Lansalloy will never come off without damaging your cone's coating if it's as dry as it appears in your pictures

    It's stuck too darn well
    Hi, Wagner. You left two messages and I take it the 2nd/later one is your opinion, that the lansolay is just too stuck on?

    thanks

    Rick

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSchiller View Post
    Hi, Wagner. You left two messages and I take it the 2nd/later one is your opinion, that the lansolay is just too stuck on?

    thanks

    Rick

    No, my instructions are the way to go; I was simply commenting on your photo after taking a second look at the extent of the damage to your white areas. When the Lansalloy is still that defined and dry and you pull on it it is no wonder that your Aquaplas pulled away.

    That was all I intended to say, just an observation.

    Follow my instructions and the stuff will come off like magic (albeit it slow magic!)

    As you work with this you will also hit spots that literally fall away from the cone with the first wetting. Don't let this occurrence get you too excited and start pressing matters too exuberantly as there always seems to be spots that take forever to soak loose.

    Keep it wet, go slow and be patient. It's a GREAT feeling when it's all off!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSchiller View Post
    Hi, Wagner. You left two messages and I take it the 2nd/later one is your opinion, that the lansolay is just too stuck on?

    thanks

    Rick
    Not to be a smart ass, but upon reflection on your last question you must not have read my initial post very closely.

    I have done a 1/2 dozen of these woofers, and again,, except for the pair that had been badly stained I was able to remove 100% of the old surrounds without losing a single speck of my Aquaplas.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    I've 6 of these woofers and they all came out well, only the bar room specials required painting!
    But it takes patience and focused effort.

    So, my "opinion" is that it most certainly can be removed.

    Also just noticed you're in Oakland; I'm right down the road from you.

    I'd have done them for you last week. More medical crap starts up tomorrow and I have 2 big re-cap jobs here at the house pending

    Let us know how it goes

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSchiller View Post
    Hi, Wagner. You left two messages and I take it the 2nd/later one is your opinion, that the lansolay is just too stuck on?

    thanks

    Rick
    I've amended the post.
    Sorry for any confusion it may have caused.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    Not to be a smart ass, but upon reflection on your last question you must not have read my initial post very closely.

    I have done a 1/2 dozen of these woofers, and again,, except for the pair that had been badly stained I was able to remove 100% of the old surrounds without losing a single speck of my Aquaplas.



    But it takes patience and focused effort.

    So, my "opinion" is that it most certainly can be removed.

    Also just noticed you're in Oakland; I'm right down the road from you.

    I'd have done them for you last week. More medical crap starts up tomorrow and I have 2 big re-cap jobs here at the house pending

    Let us know how it goes
    Hi

    You first reply gave nicely detailed instructions centered about going slowly with MEK on Q-tips. Your 2nd replay about 8 minutes later appeared to be further reflection and contradiction but I appreciate your clarification. I will slowly try your suggestion. Where are you located? I'm up off Lake Merritt and would like to confer further with you, if you would allow. I can forward my phone number, if you are amenable.

    The optimal fix is to remove the old lansolay and glue the new surround to the top of the cone? Sorry about the medical stuff, I've had my share of late.

    thanks

    Rick

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSchiller View Post
    Hi

    You first reply gave nicely detailed instructions centered about going slowly with MEK on Q-tips. Your 2nd replay about 8 minutes later appeared to be further reflection and contradiction but I appreciate your clarification. I will slowly try your suggestion. Where are you located? I'm up off Lake Merritt and would like to confer further with you, if you would allow. I can forward my phone number, if you are amenable.

    The optimal fix is to remove the old lansolay and glue the new surround to the top of the cone? Sorry about the medical stuff, I've had my share of late.

    thanks

    Rick

    Fine, send me your number.
    I'll call you sometime tomorrow after I return from the sawbones.
    But I really don't know how much more I can tell you or help you than what I already have.
    It's a tactile thing that you just have to do and then you'll only get better at it by doing more of them.
    Suggest a time; I should be back home by Noon at the latest.

    As for what is optimal? A re-cone of course. But the spiders on those things are so well made and that nice hard Lansalloy holds them so nicely in place that I have never had a bad one....... so it's sort of a mixed blessing that they go bad the way that they do.
    Zilch got good results and measurements from the ones he tested an used after Rick Cobb surrounds had been used.
    Damn fine woofers (I do realize you have the "C" sort of pseudo co-axial variant) but still same excellent build quality.

    What are you planning to use them with?

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