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Thread: Klipsch Crossover

  1. #1
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    Klipsch Crossover

    Hello,
    I am re-capping a pair of 1984 Heresy E-2 networks for my Son. It employs a 33uF NON-polar electrolytic which I have been told should not be eliminated due to the drivers used in this particular incarnation of the Heresy. It is some sort of woofer by-pass (is inserted across the woofer terminals on the board)

    Would someone please tell me if this cap would be suitable? There are not a lot to choose from in the non-polar category at Mouser or Digi-Key.

    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...HUfUYA8VFkk%3d

    I know it's not JBL, but they can't all be.

    Any help would be well received.

    Thank you

  2. #2
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    Or use a film type for this spot........?

    I have read that film types for this duty can cause resonance issues and are overkill for this duty? I have absolutely no idea, I am just a parts installer. The squawker and tweeter pose no problem; they will receive film types with JBL style by-pass.

    A film type 33uF for the woofer, although not cheap when compared to the electrolytic, is fairly reasonable:
    http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...citor--027-441

    Just need guidance from someone who knows this area well and this is the place for technical knowledge.

    Maybe I should NOT have included the moniker "Klipsch" in my title line!

    Thanks!

    Thomas

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    Here's another source of bipolar electrolytics:

    http://www.parts-express.com/33uf-10...citor--027-350

    The Nichicon doesn't specifically say it's for crossovers, so it may not be intended for that service. Still, it may work fine.

    As for whether you should use an electrolytic or film, that depends on the design of the crossover, and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the original cap. If the designer was counting on high ESR in that cap, and your new cap has low ESR (like film), it can affect the Q of the filter, causing peaking etc. Even going to a newer electrolytic can affect things, because modern electrolytic capacitors typically have lower ESR than they used to. One trick is to use a film, but insert a small (1 ohm, maybe) series resistor to simulate the ESR of the original cap. I'd want to measure the end result to be sure I got close, and tweak the resistor if necessary, but 1 ohm is probably a good place to start.

    Francis
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    Quote Originally Posted by fpitas View Post
    Here's another source of bipolar electrolytics:

    http://www.parts-express.com/33uf-10...citor--027-350

    The Nichicon doesn't specifically say it's for crossovers, so it may not be intended for that service. Still, it may work fine.

    As for whether you should use an electrolytic or film, that depends on the design of the crossover, and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the original cap. If the designer was counting on high ESR in that cap, and your new cap has low ESR (like film), it can affect the Q of the filter, causing peaking etc. Even going to a newer electrolytic can affect things, because modern electrolytic capacitors typically have lower ESRs than they used to. One trick is to use a film, but insert a small (1 ohm, maybe) series resistor to simulate the ESR of the original cap. I'd want to measure the end result to be sure I got close, and tweak the resistor if necessary, but 1 ohm is probably a good place to start.

    Francis


    I saw those, they don't identify the manufacturer. I will not use nondescript chinese electrolytics for anything.

    As I stated in my original post, the "E-2" was supplied by Klipsch with an electrolytic in that spot, so yes, it was and is part of the original design.

    As for the Nichicon I posted the link for, it includes the technical data sheet for the cap. I posted my question here at Lansing Heritage as I know there are many professionals here that can actually answer my question as for that particular cap's suitability (with supplied data sheet). I do not possess the knowledge to do so.

    As for ESR and "Q" concerns in this already too small undampened box? Come on now, they're Klipsch Heresys! I'm just trying to not install more insult to injury and select the "right" part. For all I know any of properly made and rated non-polars are fine for this task. I don't think it's a very precision application of the cap to begin with, but again I do not know with any degree of certainty or expertise, ergo the original question.

    Klipsch Heresy underwent a number of network and driver changes over the decades and with the exception of the very first ones with the "C" networks, intended for center channel duty only, they all pretty much sound the same, so I think there's quite a bit of latitude with Heresys! I just wish to avoid installing something that is inherently wrong for the task on face value as much as possible.

    Not re-inventing or designing here, just a parts change.

    Thanks

    Thomas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    I saw those, they don't identify the manufacturer. I will not use nondescript chinese electrolytics for anything.

    As I stated in my original post, the "E-2" was supplied by Klipsch with an electrolytic in that spot, so yes, it was and is part of the original design.

    As for the Nichicon I posted the link for, it includes the technical data sheet for the cap. I posted my question here at Lansing Heritage as I know there are many professionals here that can actually answer my question as for that particular caps suitability (with supplied data sheet). I do not possess the knowledge to do so.

    As for ESR and "Q" concerns in this already too small undampened box? Come on now, they're Klipsch Heresys! I'm just trying to not install more insult to injury and selsct the "right"part. For all I know any of them are fine for this task.

    Thomas
    OK, sorry I couldn't help. Good luck.
    Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002

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    Quote Originally Posted by fpitas View Post
    OK, sorry I couldn't help. Good luck.
    Please don't take offense; thank you for your comments.

    I am not shooting for a project here or correcting Klipsch's design compromises. Just rehabbing an old crossover.

    Thomas

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    I would use a film and foil before using another electrolytic

    I've used these Audyn caps for a number of JBL crossovers that I've upgraded. Great value for the money. But to answer your question, the 33 uf Nichicon Bi-Polar will be just fine, just make sure the leads are long enough as it is a "radial " design. Good Luck, Paul http://www.parts-express.com/audyn-c...citor--027-121
    JBL 4343, JBL L300 Summit, UREI 811, JBL 4311, JBL 4301, JBL L5, JBL L50, JBL L100 , to name a few

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