Turntables , Vinyl , Welcome back!

[SEAWOLF97]

Son's record sales going well enough that he finally got his own website.

https://www.betterinthebasementrecords.com/

BetterInTheBasement
100.0% 4,360 ratings

disclaimer: yeah, he's related.

[SEAWOLF97]

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https://www.engadget.com/2018/12/04/...=recirculation

They're not competitors but complementary formats that deliver different benefits to fans.

[SEAWOLF97]

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to this show

[SEAWOLF97]

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unlike any that I've assembled in the past

Thank heavens for Vinyl Engine having the owners manual and the nice
deal from a senior LHF member.

[Kay Pirinha]

Took me some hours to read this interesting thread completely, but without most of the links, except one: The Video of the Tower records store. Wow, never seen a store of these dimensions!

As the Shure V15 was frequently mentioned: About two years ago I've been given a V15 IV from an old friend of mine. He told me that he never managed to get it working properly. I installed it to a DUAL 1229 idler TT of about the same age, 'cause I assumed that this combination couldn't be too wrong, and adjusted the overhang with an Schön protractor. Eventually I've found out that my friend was right: This cart distorted heavily, especially with piano recordings! To find out the reason, I tried a new aftermarket M95 stylus (as the M95 belongs to the same cart family) in the V15 body, and it played well! Then I swapped the bodies, which is easy to do with two of these proprietary DUAL sleds, put the V15's needle into the M95, and it also worked! What's that???

@ Seawolf: Yes, the 701 was DUAL's first DD TT, and it was the 1st European DD as well! Sorry that you couldn't fix the PSU issue, as the components aren't anything special. Those AC188 Germaniums are unobtanium these days, though .

Do you still run your 1258? I own several TT's of this family (607, 617Q, 741Q), the latter one being my everyday TT presently, dead quiet and fine sounding. I've modified it a bit for that it can take regular ½" carts instead of those proprietary TKS's, and I run it with an Ortofon SuperOM body, for which I have an assortment of all available needles, except the 78.

Best regards!

[macaroonie]

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unlike any that I've assembled in the past

Thank heavens for Vinyl Engine having the owners manual and the nice
deal from a senior LHF member.

Wow , now you have arrived. That's a great TT to this day. I expect you have heard it in action so I don't need to tell you how well it plays

M

[SEAWOLF97]

Wow , now you have arrived. That's a great TT to this day. I expect you have heard it in action so I don't need to tell you how well it plays

M

have never heard it. bought it on faith, no cart included.
seller shipped with original box and all accessories (except manual
which I've downloaded)

Arm is an ADC LMF-1, p/s is a "mod squad".

trying to figure what cart to use. The TT initially confused me as the heavy, 1 inch (?) alloy plinth mounts upside down over the towers for shipping.

Here is how it's supposed to look, if I can get the right parts in the right places. (actual pre-shipping pic)

[SEAWOLF97]

going slowly so as to do it right

lower plinth is perfectly leveled, as is the top aluminum one*. Play adjusted out of drive shaft , spindle & bearings newly lubed ..etc.

I've had to move the Denon out of that spot to where the Sansui XP99 was. The marble slab was just perfect for the Delphi. The 99 one is now stored ,photoed and up on CL. (as is the SL-Q3)

Next, assemble the arm, mount the cart ... think I'm going with the V-15 V that had been on this table with prior owner ... then mount and align it all.

Family coming in from Chicago soon, so this process may take even more time. Need to get busy and rake up all the $100 bills laying around the floor, so the kids don't choke on them. I think all will be worth the effort

* yes, I realize that the alum plinth will need to be level checked once the weight of the arm is mounted.

[macaroonie]

Nice. Suggest you run it for a day or so just to let your adjustments bed down.
Also it will help you down the line of you make
a dummy mass to emulate the arm. In the first instance that will let you adjust the levell. for the arm as if it were installed.
If you do that you can start to learn about the bounce. It may be that it is already in tune as it were but like all thoroughbreds it can be pernickity.
Looking good 👌

* yes, I realize that the alum plinth will need to be level checked once the weight of the arm is mounted.[/QUOTE]

[macaroonie]

Hi. I've got some spare time today so let me lay out your next steps.
So far you have adjusted out end lash on the motor , cleaned and re lubed the main spindle bearing and assembled the chassis to the suspension and plinth. As you noted in a
PM the belt is tricky to fit as the platter is s one piece. Once your get the knack for it it's easy. So, you had an issue with the belt slipping off. In simple terms the whole floating assembly is riding too high. This is where the dummy arm mass becomes useful
Just use a paper cup with copper coins in it @ the same weight as the arm. Tape over the top to avoid spillage of you knock it over.
Place it in the middle of the arm mounting plate. Now you can proceed with making adjustments to the suspension without the chance of dinging the arm.
You probably want to lower the whole chassis by about 1/4" then the belt will stay put.
There is however another aspect of spring suspension that is important to the performance of the deck. If the springs are set up well a push down anywhere on the platter will cause a bounce that is even and smooth till the movement decays
If there a pronounced lateral wiggles or an uneven bounce then the springs are not working in unison.
( An arm cable that is tied down too tight will cause bad bounce also )
Why is this important simple the springs form a mechanical means to filter out any vibes coming from the surfaces below the deck. If not adjusted correctly the suspension will have multiple modes and hence the effect of the filtering is reduced. Oh and yes you can hear this whether it's oracle , Linn , Sota etc.
The design of the Oracle is choc full of features that are in the business of eliminating extraneous resonances
For example the rubber ring around the edge
Of the platter. The laminated chassis the very non resonant plinth. They really went to town where it mattered and the suspension is a good example of that thinking
The end result is a deck that is amazingly free of mush , lots of clarity instead. The micro details in the sound that were masked are now there for your listening pleasure. Early reviews of the Delphi pronounced it to be bass light. This of course was nonsense and was only a result of the benchmark of the day the. Linn LP12 being significantly bass heavy due to lack of vibration control..
So let's see how you do with your cup of pennies , suspension bounce test , and lowering. If you have an uneven bounce I'll discuss that next post. Easy when you know how , little bit finnicky if you don't.
Once we get that put to bed we can move on to mounting the arm etc.
And the thorny subject of arm cables.
Did you buy one already ?

[macaroonie]

Hi. I've got some spare time today so let me lay out your next steps.
So far you have adjusted out end lash on the motor , cleaned and re lubed the main spindle bearing and assembled the chassis to the suspension and plinth. As you noted in a
PM the belt is tricky to fit as the platter is s one piece. Once your get the knack for it it's easy. So, you had an issue with the belt slipping off. In simple terms the whole floating assembly is riding too high. This is where the dummy arm mass becomes useful
Just use a paper cup with copper coins in it @ the same weight as the arm. Tape over the top to avoid spillage of you knock it over.
Place it in the middle of the arm mounting plate. Now you can proceed with making adjustments to the suspension without the chance of dinging the arm.
You probably want to lower the whole chassis by about 1/4" then the belt will stay put.
There is however another aspect of spring suspension that is important to the performance of the deck. If the springs are set up well a push down anywhere on the platter will cause a bounce that is even and smooth till the movement decays
If there a pronounced lateral wiggles or an uneven bounce then the springs are not working in unison.
( An arm cable that is tied down too tight will cause bad bounce also )
Why is this important simple the springs form a mechanical means to filter out any vibes coming from the surfaces below the deck. If not adjusted correctly the suspension will have multiple modes and hence the effect of the filtering is reduced. Oh and yes you can hear this whether it's oracle , Linn , Sota etc.
The design of the Oracle is choc full of features that are in the business of eliminating extraneous resonances
For example the rubber ring around the edge
Of the platter. The laminated chassis the very non resonant plinth. They really went to town where it mattered and the suspension is a good example of that thinking
The end result is a deck that is amazingly free of mush , lots of clarity instead. The micro details in the sound that were masked are now there for your listening pleasure. Early reviews of the Delphi pronounced it to be bass light. This of course was nonsense and was only a result of the benchmark of the day the. Linn LP12 being significantly bass heavy due to lack of vibration control..
So let's see how you do with your cup of pennies , suspension bounce test , and lowering. If you have an uneven bounce I'll discuss that next post. Easy when you know how , little bit finnicky if you don't.
Once we get that put to bed we can move on to mounting the arm etc.
And the thorny subject of arm cables.
Did you buy one already ?

[SEAWOLF97]

And the thorny subject of arm cables.
Did you buy one already ?

thanx for the great post.

to answer the above question : yes & no

I ordered one from the web , it was too wide for the barrel on the ADC arm bottom.
Checked with our regions guru, he knows what it is, doesn't have one and doesn't know where to get one. He recalls it as being a propitiatory ADC plug, tho I understand that the plug that lived in the ADC arm is now in use in a Grace arm.

I checked forums, evidently there are 2 different DIN 5 pin plugs that have the right barrel size, but have different pin spacing.

Visiting family finally left and if I can get the "honey-do's" down to a reasonable level, can start on the Delphi again.

LATE EDIT: seller may have found a compatible one.

[Kay Pirinha]

I checked forums, evidently there are 2 different DIN 5 pin plugs that have the right barrel size, but have different pin spacing.

Yes, there are 180° (the usual one) and 270° pin arrangements.

Best regards!

[macaroonie]

Yes, there are 180° (the usual one) and 270° pin arrangements.

Best regards!

This is correct. A pic of the base of the arm would help clear this up. Grace arms were oddball as I recall but I don't remember ADC being odd as well although I have no experience with your model , only the ALT 1.

[SEAWOLF97]

This is correct. A pic of the base of the arm would help clear this up.

2 pics for you. have been told by seller that a workable one is coming, but
"crappy" and a decent one will need to be found, and recommended one of these. I'd rather trade with known sources, if possible.

https://audiosensibility.com/blog/ac...onearm-cables/