C35 - homebrew or real deal?

[martin2395]

Well, the piece of plywood that holds the 075's went straight to the dustbin as it was probably made at night by a drunk as the hole wasn't even centered

I decided to give them a new life and I've already cleaned the inside, threw away the old dampening material, glued + screwed the front panels tightly as I don't need these to be removable.
I'm also planning to build new grilles that will be held in place with velcro, just like 4343 ones for example.

Very hard to tell if these are original or knockoffs as they had genuine cloth, logo's, screws (except the modified woofer and tweeter mounting) and all drivers with serial numbers close to each other.

[audiomagnate]

...BTW - I couldn't help but notice what appears to be the initials H L on the baffle next to the insulation. Perhaps Jim's kid sister Hermoine made the baffle :-P Ciao!

I can see the eBay listing now: "All original JBL C35s, cabinets lovingly hand assembled and signed by Hermoine Lansing $15,000"

[martin2395]

Who knows

Nah, just kidding. I bought those C35 just for fun but I'm sure my parents won't be happy to see another pair of "coffins" in the room
I need to fix those cabs asap en get the them to my room upstairs before they return home

By the way - what would be the best way to fill all the extra holes they drilled for the woofer? I'm planning to leave only the 4 original ones.

[audiomagnate]

I used to use powdered wood putty for that. Just add water. Have you hooked them up? If so, how do they sound?

[Horn Fanatic]

i can see the ebay listing now: "all original jbl c35s, cabinets lovingly hand assembled and signed by hermoine lansing $15,000"

roflmao !!!

[Horn Fanatic]

I used to use powdered wood putty for that. Just add water. Have you hooked them up? If so, how do they sound?

Personally, I prefer the sound of Hartsfields over the sound of powdered wood putty and water, but that's just me.

[Horn Fanatic]

Factory built speakers don't have or need penciled cutting marks like that. Those are home made for sure. Now what about my C40, or do I have to start my own thread to get a response?

Post more photos if you can, I have in my hand the C40 drawing package. There are a couple of things that look odd.

[audiomagnate]

Who knows

Nah, just kidding. I bought those C35 just for fun but I'm sure my parents won't be happy to see another pair of "coffins" in the room
I need to fix those cabs asap en get the them to my room upstairs before they return home

By the way - what would be the best way to fill all the extra holes they drilled for the woofer? I'm planning to leave only the 4 original ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Durham-Donald-...ds=water+putty

This stuff dries rock hard and doesn't shrink. I know $1.50 US is a little pricey, but maybe ther's a cheaper Dutch version.

[martin2395]

What, $1.50 pricey? A tube of wood filler (or polyester based one) costs something around €10 here.
That's one of the reasons I'd rather live in the USA....much better tools, materials and normal prices.

I think I'd just saw a piece of MDF and mix the shavings with wood glue.

Been working hard last days As you can see one cab is already painted with grey base paint and the second one still needs to be sanded.
I'm still looking for a nice color, something really retro to match the style of the C35. The front panel will be painted matte black, just like the originals.

http://nl.tinypic.com/r/160ye5i/8

[Horn Fanatic]

http://www.amazon.com/Durham-Donald-...ds=water+putty

This stuff dries rock hard and doesn't shrink. I know $1.50 US is a little pricey, but maybe there's a cheaper Dutch version.

A luthier friend of mine told me the Durham material is what Fender used back in the day for the fret dots on rosewood fret boards.

[martin2395]

By the way - how does the N2400 work? D130 goes full range and the 075 starts at 2400Hz?
Ii'm getting strange reading on my impedance meter when I try to measure the crossover at the terminals - HF section gives around 12 ohms and LF gives open circuit.

[Horn Fanatic]

By the way - how does the N2400 work? D130 goes full range and the 075 starts at 2400Hz?
Ii'm getting strange reading on my impedance meter when I try to measure the crossover at the terminals - HF section gives around 12 ohms and LF gives open circuit.

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...tics/N2400.pdf

It appears that the N2400 is a second order network, hence the D130 would not be running full range.

Are you using an actual impedance meter, or a VOM? Impedance is frequency dependent, and a standard VOM by itself cannot tell you what the impedance is, only the DCR.

Very pricy;

http://www.toaelectronics.com/products/zm-104a.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006TZ4UG/...SIN=B0006TZ4UG

H.F.

[martin2395]

I was measuring the DCR, exactly

The networks look unmolested except for the two 5W resistors (plain ceramic type) that are partially black, also the piece of foam that was around them has melted slightly. This applies for both N2400's.

I looked around on the internet and was kinda surprised that I couldn't find any 5W resitors and 6mf caps. They are all like 4.7 - > 5.6 - > 6.5 and so on.

[audiomagnate]

What, $1.50 pricey? A tube of wood filler (or polyester based one) costs something around €10 here.
That's one of the reasons I'd rather live in the USA....much better tools, materials and normal prices.

I think I'd just saw a piece of MDF and mix the shavings with wood glue.

Been working hard last days As you can see one cab is already painted with grey base paint and the second one still needs to be sanded.
I'm still looking for a nice color, something really retro to match the style of the C35. The front panel will be painted matte black, just like the originals.

http://nl.tinypic.com/r/160ye5i/8

I was kidding about the price. It works much better than sawdust/woodglue. Maybe there's European equivalent.

[Horn Fanatic]

I was measuring the DCR, exactly

The networks look unmolested except for the two 5W resistors (plain ceramic type) that are partially black, also the piece of foam that was around them has melted slightly. This applies for both N2400's.

I looked around on the internet and was kinda surprised that I couldn't find any 5W resitors and 6mf caps. They are all like 4.7 - > 5.6 - > 6.5 and so on.

The resistor value on the schematic is 5 ohm / 1 watt, not 5 watt. At any rate, those resistors are just pads, and they don't HAVE to be 1 watt. They can be 5 or 10 watts. It's the resistance value which is important. If those networks were mine I would do away with that silly variable L-Pad and use a fixed pad of proper value to match the sensitivity of the bullet & woofer. As far as I'm concerned, there is no need of a variable L-Pad in a properly designed crossover network. It's just another gain robbing device in the circuit with a knob that will end up getting lost or broken. :-(

I read somewhere on the internet that Hermione Lansing never used variable L-Pads in her personal crossover networks. If it's on the internet, it must be true. :-P

BTW - That 2.4K crossover point isn't carved in stone, it's probably rounded off anyway.

Try these folks for crossover parts;

https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?s1=1&a=2

Ciao!