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Thread: JBL 2426 adapter ! help!

  1. #1
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    JBL 2426 adapter ! help!

    hello to all! Is there any way to unscrew the 3 bolts adapter from the 2426 drivers to make them screw type??? i have try everything today but with no results! im thinking of buying a pair of screw on adapters !
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  2. #2
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    I've used a single large-mouth pipe-wrench ( grabbing the adapter snoot ) to turn/break the glue bond holding the adapter onto the main body of the driver . The main driver body needs to be held by someone else ( or in a vise ) or another ( super-large ) pipe-wrench .

    The snoot wasn't ( originally ) glued in place by JBL ( it just happens ) .

    What's happened is the silly foam gasket ( between the two surfaces ) has deteriorated into a sticky mess .

    Use large-mouth adjustable wrenches & you'll be able to ( with some persistent pressure ), break the bond .

    Don't do what you are doing ( in that pic ). You'll break-off that mounting tab ( before the "muck" releases it's grip ) .


  3. #3
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    glue

    I have found some of the 2426 and 2427 with a small amount of glue on the threads...but yes - that foam is nasty stuff.

    Agreed - you need a decent size wrench to grab the base of the snout. The ones sold in the plumbing section work the best because they can only be 1/2 thick or so AND they have offset / angled teeth surfaces meant for round shapes..

    sub

  4. #4
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    magnet damage!

    BOLT the adapter to a horn that in turn can be bolted down.

    GET an adjustable slip-wrench ( thin ) from the plumbing supply house.

    GRAB the *base* of the snoot with the wrench and it will come loose.

    do NOT put any pressure or twisting on the magnet / tire / etc or you might
    break the glue bond that holds the magnet together!!!

  5. #5
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    thank u all ill finally put other drivers on the horns ! lol

  6. #6
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    I used an "Indian clamp" to get non-marring grip on the snout- 2 pieces of thin wood, bound together at the ends with the snout in between. I'm going to have to figure out a way to remove back cups- mine seem locked in place and I want to make sure the phragms are in good shape, etc, as well as replace the connectors. This is even more fiddly than the snout as any hamfisting will scrap the phragms.

  7. #7
    RE: Member when? subwoof's Avatar
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    whack it

    whack the back cap on the side with a short length of a 2X4..really...

    the rubber gasket grips the aluminum pretty good and this won't leave a scar.

  8. #8
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    lol... I was going to say a dead blow hammer (plastic w/ shot inside),
    but thought it sounded too extreme (works though).

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys- I'll take a crack at them with a mallet, just don't want to hurt the phragms.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
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    I know I did it once, it was a lot of work, I remember building a jig to be able to clamp the top plate
    My avatar: 4520 loaded with 2225H on E140 frames,
    1x B&C 12PE32 on custom front loaded horn, 2x 2426 on 2370.

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