Originally Posted by
Horn Fanatic
Greetings -
1) The glue joints should be a locking miter if it's an authentic JBL enclosure. The average home brew hobbyists typically wouldn't pony up the dough for an expensive router bit to make that joint. Not only that, but the set up to make that joint is a pain in the ass, even more so for one box.
2) It may not be an issue, but JBL didn't use slot binder head screws to mount dividing networks. Perhaps the original screws were lost, or the unit was found used somewhere.
3) On that note, why is the network mounted up so high on a C35, or is the rear panel upside down? Then the badge would be upside down :-P
4) Most noteworthy, the orientation of the woofer mounting hardware is wrong. JBL as a practice, used four 1/4-20 T-nuts located 45 degrees off the horizontal and vertical axis. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears that 10-32 hardware was used to mount the woofer. If that be the case, then perhaps who ever built the enclosure did so and purchased the speaker in the seventies. JBL provided along with an O-ring seal, 10-32 & 1/4-20 mounting hardware.
5) Rhetorical question; was the enclosure built prior to 1965? When did JBL begin to use the rectangle badge on the C35-C38 series enclosures? The reason I'm asking is that the SE400 Energizer made it's debut in 1965, but I don't know when that amp or subsequent generation models were incorporated into speaker enclosures. What I see absent is the plugged Energizer cutout. Did JBL ever provide a rectangle badge with builders plans? As we all know, the JBL serial number date data base is all but lost save for the registry in the Lansing forum.
6) Are the two pine blocks present which are supposed to be affixed to the inside rear panel on either side of the network cutout? JBL added those blocks whether the old grey can or the flanged bezel network networks were used. I do not see any type of fastener that would have been used to secure the blocks, which was typically flat head wood screws, or at the least, nails. A glued butt joint of pine blocks and particle board without some type of fastener from the opposite side would not survive should the enclosure be dropped, especially with a 5 or 6 pound network attached to them.
7) Is there a horizontal stiffener affixed to the inside rear panel center axis? It's approximate dimensions would be 3/4" thick x 20" x 2 3/4", with a 30 or so degree chamfer on the corners.
My inclination is that the enclosure is a clone, all be it well made, but missing some key construction techniques and possibly some parts. This is a problem I have with vintage JBL & ALTEC speakers offered up on Ebay. I have seen systems offered up which have chronological anomalies that can only be explained in one word; Frankenspeaker! Then there are those which appear to be authentically vintage, but in reality were built by someone decades ago who bought JBL, ALTEC, or Jensen plans. In such cases the system has changed hands so many times over the years the truth about it is lost to eternity. Too many auctioneers on Ebay claim that everything they sell with a JBL or ALTEC badge is the real deal. Only one with a trained eye and a working knowledge of vintage speaker enclosure construction would know whether the system is legit, or a knock off.
Recently I got into a pissing match with a chap who was selling a Lansing emblem, claiming it came from the last C34 Jim Lansing worked on before he died. :-P Then there was the guy, in order to create hype for the unit he was selling, claimed that Harry Olson founded RCA. Again, :-P
Everybody on Ebay is a freekin' audio expert!
Good luck,
H.F.