The suspension is glued to the OUTSIDE of the cone, which is wrong. It should look like on the 2231A's from the 4333.
The suspension is glued to the OUTSIDE of the cone, which is wrong. It should look like on the 2231A's from the 4333.
Shaky crappy pictures are a good thing, it almost always means a lower price. From what I can see without vomiting, they look great. It looks like the cardboard/foam sheets are missing from underneath the glass, but that's a super easy fix with a trip to the art supply store. I have no idea how you can tell if they got the woofer surround on the correct side, but I doubt if makes any real difference. The width of the surround roll looks like it's right (thinner than most 15"s). GO GET THEM! I love my L300s and those look fine and original to me.
I don't know why - perhaps you don't get out enough?
(Have you read the XPA Gen-2 thread? - the snide comments there aren't from me!)
But really - what value did Mr Wu provide by dinging the poster about using a better camera
when the poster's question was about the quality of speakers he was looking to buy?
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
Back to the question that the OP asked.
1. The cabinet condition is unanswerable because we have no pictures other than that of the front baffle and the grilles. There are no pictures of the sides, top, rear, or even the bottom plinth, so we are unable to assess the cabinet veneer, even color or condition, and the care of them. IMO, you need to see more pictures, well lit, in color, and with the camera held steady - have the seller set up a chair with a high back in front of the speakers where he want to shoot them from, and place the camera against the chair top while he sits in it. That way, the chair is steadied by his weight, and he can point and pivot the camera using the chair back/top as a steadying influence. If you have to, have him shoot with a lot of bright light in the room, or use the flash.
2. As noted, the L91/2308 lenses are missing, and if so, need to be sourced and replaced. That amount should be deducted from any costs (about $150 USD).
3. The woofer has been refoamed because the outer front gasket is wrong, appears to be the typical layered paper/cardboard with pre-cut angled mounting holes. It is also thicker and wider than the OEM firm sponge neoprene material. As noted, the surround has been glued onto the front edge of the woofer cone instead of the original OEM position of behind the cone. Also, I'd lay odds that the surround roll is the more common wide roll of >1/2 inch vs. the correct narrow roll as seen on the 4333's 2231A woofer. A comparison of both should be instructive. Sometimes the original neoprene gasket or similar can be sourced from ebay. IMO, it looks a lot better than the paper gasket because that gives it a sort of generic appearance, whereas the neoprene gasket is purely JBL.
4. If the L300's 136A woofer cone is still original and is otherwise functioning normally, I'd suggest having it refoamed correctly with Rick Cobb surrounds. If done carefully, it will not have that much cosmetic impact, the old front glue edge may be masked by a bit of matching gray spray paint. This will preserve the original 136A which will sometimes help with the resale value in the future. Otherwise, if the 2231A's are in good condition, functionally it will be an appropriate swap. However, you should check the condition of the 2231A surrounds. If they have been more than 5-7 years, they also could need resurrounding in the near future.
With any refoaming or resurrounding, you may need to consider using a test tone to center the voice coil, or cut the center dust cap carefully, and then shim. Some cut the dustcap as close to the glue joint (carefully) and leave a bit at the end to pivot the cap over, then carefully reglue, using the glue to hid the joint. Others will suggest replacing the dust cap, usually needing to use a slightly wider or larger diameter cap. that is why some speakers look like the caps are a bit larger than usual. the color of the cap will obviously vary from supplier to supplier. Unless carefully color matched, its hard to get a match. Most people do not run speakers without the grille so it won't be seen usually. Even if unevenly colored, there is usually no impact on performance assuming the dustcap is properly glue back on and reasonably centered.
Bart
When faced with another JBL find, Good mech986 says , JBL Fan mech986 says
Thank you Bart, here are more pictures to help evaluate the cabinets condition. I noticed that the black on the front baffle doesn't seem to be uniform. Could it be dirt easily wiped away? Or I should apply some product?
Well, That one shows the Lens - does it come with just one, or are there a pair of lenses (that's the vertical slat things that hook onto the front baffle over the tweeter horn, usually mounted with velcro pads)
The grey/white on the wood on the side of the one speaker in picture 2 below could mean the wood is scraped up, or something had been rubbed onto the wood, or it could go away if you rub the wood down with some nice furniture oil ... its hard to say.
Same thing with the black baffle "issue" you mentioned.
But honestly, I wouldn't start thinking about apply any kind of product until you can get a closer look at them, and HEAR how they sound. If they don't play very well, the rest is all moot.
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
They don't look like the right surrounds …. maybe after market re-cone ???
Rich
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