Here’s a fun picture, I used this set up get the correct length for the internal wiring harness
Here’s a fun picture, I used this set up get the correct length for the internal wiring harness
This is a cut-away side view of the cabinet; I included it to show how much room (NOT) there is inside the box. Once the ports are installed you’ll never be able to reach to the top of the cabinet without the top back access panel.
As I manufactured my own 2308 lens I also had a template made and pre-drilled the screw holes.
I attached the fiberglass prior to the final cabinet assembly. Taped off all the areas where the glue is not to go. I used 3M Super 77 glue.
Finally assembling the cabinet.
Installing the xover prior to installing the front baffle it’s a lot easier working though this gap than a woofer hole
Wiring up the LPADs to the terminal block prior to dropping the baffle in to the cabinet
Inserting the baffle in to the cabinet, I taped off the edges with masking tape to keep the glue off the finished baffle.
Once the dowels holding the baffle in have been trimmed off, it’s time to assemble the walnut trim. If you look at the left front piece of trim you can see I cut a recess out of the bottom of the trim and left a 1/8 inch overhang. This allowed me to square up the trim (overhang) against the side of the cabinet panels. When the trim is cut trimmed flush to the sides the overhang is removed.
This is the saw I used to cut the 45 degree angles for the trim - NOBEX excellent tool from Sweden.
http://www.nobex.se/GB/engelska.html
It is also big enough to cut the 4 inch ABS pipe (sewage pipe) for the port tubes and actually has a blade specially made for ABS. I had to be careful cutting the trim I had no spares for any screw ups.
Cabinets with the excess walnut trim removed and ready for the veneer. I placed a piece of plywood on top of the trim to allow for a stable platform for the router when cutting the walnut trim flush to the sides of the cabinet. Its impossible to hold the router square on just the trim alone.
Top left – Tools for the job note no veneer roller required, just start the iron in the middle and work to the outside.
Top right – Using a sponge roller to apply the glue, ensure a uniform thin coat is applied. I applied three coats per surface.
Bottom left – As the glue dies it changes color the glue on the cabinet in the background is almost dry.
Bottom right – Applying glue to the veneer, I taped the veneer to wax paper you don’t have to worry about the outside edge as they will be cut off.
The cabinets are ready for finishing; I used Watco Danish Oil - “Natural”. I applied four coats of the Danish oil, first coat wet sanded the first coat and then three coats of clear varathane and a final coat of satin varathane.
The only three screws used in the entire cabinet basically to hold the cross brace while the glue dried.
I used Silicone to glue the ports (ABS or sewage pipe) in to the cabinet
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