The walnut trim is now attached and trimmed flush with the panels ready for the veneer.
The walnut trim is now attached and trimmed flush with the panels ready for the veneer.
Boxes are veneered and I’m now chamfering the edge at 30 degrees. Scrap wood is clamped at each end to allow the router bit guide wheel to roll straight off the edge of the box. Once each side are has been chamfered you can’t do this on the top or bottom you have to use a straight edged to guide the router. Cause if you don’t the router guide wheel would follow the chamfered edge and a grown man will cry.
Now the box is done and ready for finishing.
I used four coats of Watco Danish Oil - “Natural” with one coat wet sanded. I then covered this with 3 coats of clear Varathane with a final coat of statin. The Varathane was water based, first time I had used the water based version - nice stuff.
The boxes are tuned to 25.6 Hz.
I’m using the Dayton SA1000 subwoofer amplifier which was mentioned in this thread post 42.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?32060-JBL-2245-10-or-12cft/page3
It is inexpensive, the amplifier section is adequate, and with all the controls it makes it easy to blend in to the room and other speakers.
Nice job! I wish I knew how to make that kind of woodworking.
XPL 200's w DX1, XPL 160's, XPL 140's, L7's, L5's, L3's, L1's Homemade L Center, 4412's, 4406, L60T's, L20T's
I love it. You have great skillz my friend. Tons of very nice building details.
That is some sound cabinetry Brother! That looks beautiful. Can't wait to see you respond as to how they sound!
Thanks Audiobeer
The sub-woofers sound great I’m very happy with them. I’ve got them doing double duty. I use them my 4344s but more so with my K2 99s. I find the 4344 doesn’t need much help on the bottom end and for critical listening I turn the subs off. With the K2s they help with the last bottom octave in medium to low listening levels (mind you medium is loud according to my wife) but if I raise the volume I shut them off as from a speaker efficiency point of view they struggle to keep up with the 1500AL-1s and I don’t want to blow the 2235s up, fixing these things now a days is expensive. One has to be careful with the Dayton SA1000 as it can deliver 950 watts per channel at 4 ohms.
I know this is an old thread but this is the first I'd seen it. Very very nice job! I have a B460 that I use with my L220's, each driven with a McIntosh MC501 amp. Crossing over with a Sumo Delilah active crossover. From time to time I've wondered if using 2 B380's with say, a McIntosh MC452 (450W/ch) would be superior to my single B460 with the MC501 500 watt amp.
L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112
I agree. I had a B380 for a short time and felt a single (DIY) B460 was superior to the one B380. It didn't seem that 2 B380's would beat the single B460; especially in the low end. But, two subs (of any brand) might offer some other benefits such as flatter in-room response.
Rusty's 2 B460's are awesome!!!
Thanks guys for the input....I could squeeze two B380's in the area where my B460 resides, but there is no way I can get two B460's in the room. It sounds like I should just "stay put".
L220A's w/B460; 4313B's w/2241-based Sub; 4401's w/JL Audio E112
There shouldn't be any reason not to be getting plenty of bass out of that set-up. Is it safe to assume you've hooked up your B460 in both the "normal" and "inverted" manner to ensure by listening it's in phase with your full range speakers? It's surprising how many people just hook up red to + and black to - and never look back.
Great looking room!!!
I don't know about your seating arrangement, but one time I temporarily set a B380 right behind my couch and set the volume lower than the normal sub. It really worked well, especially on the sub "back massage" bass.
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