Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30

Thread: Refinishing L-26

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Canada/Québec
    Posts
    89

    Question Refinishing L-26

    Hi,

    I have a pair of L-26 , after having sanded , which product needs applied to wood for a finish original ? clear spray, or oil or other ?
    The L-26 = natural oak.................

    I would like to acquire a result to similair has.. ..L-26 at Wardsweb
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by alnico; 10-18-2004 at 02:59 AM.

  2. #2
    Administrator Wardsweb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    908
    The only thing applied after sanding was Deft.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
    Obsolete
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    NLA
    Posts
    12,193

    Re: Refinishing L-26

    Maintaining JBL Furniture Finishes

    Watco Natural can be used for oiled finishes.

  4. #4
    Obsolete
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    NLA
    Posts
    12,193
    Originally posted by Wardsweb
    The only thing applied after sanding was Deft.
    Yeah, I used Deft on the last pair of 4313/L96 hybrids I built. I veneered them with white oak.

  5. #5
    Steve Gonzales
    Guest

    good choices

    Both Watco untinted natural and Deft are exactly what you use. Put the Watco on and 'push it in to the grain and let it sit for 30minutes and wipe it off thoroughly then apply a second coat if the depth of the color is not to your liking, then after that has been wiped down thoroughly, let it 'cure for at least 5 hours (I let mine sit overnght) then spray 3 fairly good coats of Deft on them. The Deft will dry hard very quickly at around 72degress or so. The problem with high gloss Deft is that you will probably have some shiney spots and some dull ones if you are not an expert or lucky. I like to use satin. The satin will do the same thing too but after the final coat is cured for an hour, you can take a green fine grit scotchbrite pad like your wife uses to do the dishes with and dampen it slightly then 'burnish' it to a Matte luster. Use super light pressure with the grain keeping the pad tapped out of debris and keeping it moist for lubrication. Do this just to even out the sheen. if you can't get this process to work you can always spray another coat on them and live with that. Here are my results using these very products and proceedures. Good luck!
    Last edited by Steve Gonzales; 10-18-2004 at 11:41 AM.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Canada/Québec
    Posts
    89
    Originally posted by Wardsweb
    The only thing applied after sanding was Deft.
    But i applied one coat Deft Lacquer Sanding Sealer ? and after Deft Clear Wood Finish ?
    Or Deft Clear directly on natural oak?


    tanks

  7. #7
    Member droh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    60

    Point of clarification

    Just to be clear here, you are going for a finish different than the originals on these boxes - correct? The Deft product I beleive is a lacquer finish. This will give you a harder and probabaly glossier finish than the original. From what i know the original finish on those L26s was the usual JBL "hand rubbed oil finish" which would be more closely replicated with a mixture of Linseed oil and turpentine or a commercial product like Minwax Antique Oil Finish.

  8. #8
    Administrator Wardsweb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    908
    Originally posted by alnico
    But i applied one coat Deft Lacquer Sanding Sealer ? and after Deft Clear Wood Finish ?
    Or Deft Clear directly on natural oak?


    tanks
    I sanded the cabinet with 320 grit paper and a sanding block. Then 600 grit paper and finished with some 1000 grit. This leaves a VERY smooth finish, almost with a sheen to it. I then sprayed semi-gloss DEFT finish directly onto the wood. (Gloss is to much IMO) I followed with two more coats, waiting about 30 minutes between coats.

    If you want a matte finish, after they have set for a few hours, you can sand them with some white scotchbrite. NOT the green stuff, but the white which is very fine. I guess you could use 1000 or 1500 grit paper too. Just sand lightly until you get the finish you want.

  9. #9
    Steve Gonzales
    Guest

    TOO much

    I have been a cabinet finisher for 20years and in my opinion using 600 and 1000 grit is WAY over board and going to scratch his finish coat because he would have to be shown in person how to get a good result plus it would clog really quick when using it to sand the Deft. I think it is too much for the unfinished wood too. JBL didn't even go that far. 320 is about the finest grit I would use. Since you go progressively finer, feel how smooth even 220 will get the surface. I agree a novice should use a white Scotchbrite pad, I have years of practice, and it is easy to go with the green, still super-light pressure is needed moving with the grain with the white too and I dampen mine. Try it with and try it without and see what works for you. When you start to see scratches in the deft, you will know its time to try it damp.

  10. #10
    Senior Member sonofagun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Stanwood, MI
    Posts
    1,146
    I used to finish oak or walnut by applying a good oil finish (I used something called "Swedish Oil") to the veneer - one or more coats depending on how dark you want the finish - oil tends to help bring out the natural color(s) of the wood. After it dries, sand lightly and then apply Deft. After Deft dries, rub to satin sheen using very fine steel wool dipped in same oil.

    Old cabinetmaker I knew swore by genuine tung oil handrubbed into the wood...is a traditional finish IF you don't mind the work!

    Whatever, try any finish process on some sample pieces to see which you like.
    40+ years of sacrifice...and for what???

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Canada/Québec
    Posts
    89
    tanks you

  12. #12
    analogman
    Guest
    In my opinion, the only correct finish for these boxes would be BOILED LINSEED OIL. The results will be stunning and will only deepen and become richer in texture with time and with repeated "coats". You can make adjustments to your colour either by adding a little stain to the linseed oil OR if desired, stain the boxes first. Spraying or brushing crap on real wood veneer is a crime. On some projects that are particularly rough, I will seal with pure tung oil, but this is rare and only as needed. This type of veener should be "French polished" ONLY! It will also preserve and enhance JBL's original type patina.

    With regards,
    Analogman
    Last edited by analogman; 10-21-2004 at 05:11 PM.

  13. #13
    analogman
    Guest
    Another thought,
    If, for some reason you DO NOT like the results of my suggestion, it can easily be undone with the can of your choice with NO SANDING or further compromise of the already thin veneer.
    As always,
    Analogman

  14. #14
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    9,738
    Analogman,

    It depends on the look you are after. The original finish on the L26s was a "contemporary" very light colored oak. A linseed oil on them will give it a look that may be more appropriate in some interior designs but not go well with others. The darker look is more appropriate on a vintage look. In any event it will not result in a look that matches the original, especially after time.

    Widget

  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Canada/Québec
    Posts
    89
    but antique danish oil it's OK ? or BOILED LINSEED OIL or tung oil ?

    I would like to acquire a result original .........original look


    What difference finishing ......danish oil and BOILED LINSEED OIL or tung oil?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Refinishing
    By analogman in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-06-2004, 12:04 PM
  2. Refinishing JBL L110 Cabinets
    By Dave918 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-26-2003, 06:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •