JBL 4343 restoration questions

[christo]

Yes the veneer goes on right over the walnut trim.

In the picture below you can see the side panel veneered right over the trim and the trim has not had the 30 degree edge cut at this point.



I used a router bit with a roller bearing guide. In the picture below I have just finished cutting the angle in the trim. The scrap wood at each end is used to allow the router bit to clear the end box. I used this technique on two opposing sides.




On the remaining two sides you have to use a straight edge to control the path of the router bit as each end now has a 30 degree angle in the trim.

[DingDing]

Christo, thank you again for your great advice on how to get such a great result with the front trim! As you can see here, these doesn't look nearly as good as yours in their condition, and it's all about the details imo.



These were probably put on after the veneer was done, which was exactly what I was going to do, and then use something on the seam to make it look less apparent, but with your help they'll look much better.

Also, these were originally the grey ones and the front profile doesn't cover 100 % as can be seen from the inside, so they are coming off with the aid of a heat gun



By all the help I've received from you and others in this thread I'm growing confident that I'll get these wonderful sounding speakers in great condition.

I truly admire you and everyone that can do such a good job on these speakers. Kind of envious to be honest! ;D

[yggdrasil]

Thank you. Is your company related to the industry? I've got a sole proprietorship which operates in another industry, but if I can order directly from them using that, I'll do it as the retailer they forwarded me to does not respond to my email.

I'm into software development, so the company is far out of the industry. Worth a try.

[DingDing]

Currently waiting for some DeOxit Faderlube for battling the dead spots in the l-pad pots, but yesterday I turned each knob 10-15 times from zero to max with the system turned off, and it went away, maybe I got some corrosion out of the way. However, I noticed that one of the pots were much less resistant than the others, so lube is probably a good idea anyways.

I'm into software development, so the company is far out of the industry. Worth a try.

Cool! I'll give it a shot as soon as I have confirmed with the manufacturer that I can still use Tite-Bond II even if it is water based.

More on veneer
Looked into oakwoodveneer and shipping alone is almost $200(!), yikes!

To those of you who get your veneer from oakwood, 10 mil paper backed premium is what I want, right? In the youtube video below a representative from the company has a little presentation on the different qualities, and 22 mil seems a bit thick(?) The thickness given does not include the actual veneer, only the paper, so 10 mil is actually thicker in total.

[macaroonie]

You might find UK veneer suppliers easier to deal with

http://www.woodveneeruk.co.uk/produc...%20on%20Veneer

[DingDing]

^ Thanks, looks like that may be a better option, but have to do some measurements to be sure that each sheet covers the whole depth of the speaker.

More on Decoflex & water based glues
Reply from manufacturer of Decoflex Veneer, and here she goes

Hello,

I see in your manual for decoflex that you recommend against water based glue.

I want to restore some vintage loudspeakers with American walnut, and are following a DIY forum for the process. However, all the people there use a water based glue to attach their veneer to the substrate.

Why should I not use a water based glue with your decoflex, please?

I'm very tempted to defy your manual and use water based, but what can happen if I use water based, please?

Hello

We recommend contact glue and why not water based glue

1) veneer might become wavy when it comes in touch with water

2) allow enough time until the glue is completele dried out otherwise after lacquering there might appear cracks in the veneer after some time

So it doesn't seem that problematic as potential waves will be ironed out anyways. Looks like he is implying that I can go ahead, but should wait for the adhesive to dry before going on with oiling (laquering = oiling?)... Sent him a follow up, he won't get rid of me that easily

[macaroonie]

There is an adhesive film readily available for veneering.

http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/c...dhesives_1.htm

Some nice big walnut sheets from the same people

http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/c..._Veneers_5.htm

[christo]

^ Thanks, looks like that may be a better option, but have to do some measurements to be sure that each sheet covers the whole depth of the speaker.

More on Decoflex & water based glues
Reply from manufacturer of Decoflex Veneer, and here she goes





So it doesn't seem that problematic as potential waves will be ironed out anyways. Looks like he is implying that I can go ahead, but should wait for the adhesive to dry before going on with oiling (laquering = oiling?)... Sent him a follow up, he won't get rid of me that easily

I would say based upon the manufactures response that using the veneering technique outlined in this forum will work fine. Yes you are using a water based glue but it is dry when you place the veneer on the surface allowing you to reposition it at will. Once you apply the heat with the iron it takes on all the characteristics of contact-cement, it will not move. And this is how the waves the manufactured is referring to are avoided. I think their concern is that if you didn’t let the glue dry first there would be issues.

With the technique outlined in this forum both surfaces are covered with 2 to 3 thin coats of Tite-Bond II with each coat being dry before applying the next. By dry I mean you can run your hand over the surface and it won’t stick. The glue itself is still soft which is fine. I found that with using a fan to assist with the drying of the glue you can apply 3 coats to each surface of two panels (i.e. four surfaces) and iron them down in an hour. You have to then wait 24 hour before trimming the veneer.

FYI – The surfaces you are gluing the veneer to must be completely level if not the imperfections will be visible through the veneer.

[macaroonie]

^^^^^ Agreed. This is good info.

[DingDing]

christo and macaroonie, thank you very much for the help.

I'll take a chance with Decoflex. They are probably advising against water to avoid any liability over poor results, for the reasons outlined by you by not letting the glue dry up first. I've been a bit weary about using Decoflex, as that is what has been used on these before, but the problem might lie with the process, not the product.

Now that the veneer choice has been made it's time for some pictures of the loudspeakers as they are now. I'll set the camera up and do it during daylight tomorrow.

Sanding them down is probably the biggest task, as they have a thick layer of paint underneath the veneer (pulled a panel, which came off very easily, to see).

As I publish pictures of the process, please post all of your constructive criticism, as it is easier to fix potential problems now rather than later.

[DingDing]

I've got suppliers for everything besides the walnut plank now. Have tried a few places like Bauhaus, but unfortunately nobody seems to supply walnut planks.

The restoration won't start until all these things are at my disposal, as veneering have to wait until I've got the plank.

Any ideas on where to get these in correct dimensions?

[Odd]

http://www.billingstadtrelast.no/?s=forside

[DingDing]

http://www.billingstadtrelast.no/?s=forside

Thanks, I just spoke with the owner on the phone, he was very helpful and proposed using one which measured 21x70mm as a basis and splitting it to the correct dimensions.

[DingDing]

Got the faderlube and bolts+nuts yesterday. I'll be having an excess supply of t-nuts and bolts (allen key). If anybody needs a few, you can have them you cover shipping (through paypal). Will be sent from Norway.