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Thread: Soundcraftsmen

  1. #16
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    I suspect this may be one of mine purchased from Canuck Audio Mart from the original owner's listing:

    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  2. #17
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    It looks the same as mine, but it looks like it has the same layout bit with 21 bands. Does it have little square buttons below the sliders? If so, that is the ones I alway hit while I adjust the sliders. Do you seem to have the same problem?

  3. #18
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racinoffrd View Post
    It looks the same as mine, but it looks like it has the same layout bit with 21 bands. Does it have little square buttons below the sliders? If so, that is the ones I alway hit while I adjust the sliders. Do you seem to have the same problem?
    Well, the CMOS digital electronic control switches on the Pro-Control and the Pro-EQ are very sensitive but they serve their purpose which is to shorten the signal path. They don't cause me any problem because I set the EQ to compensate at low-level listening and mostly run the Pro-Control in "direct" mode all other times. If I feel the need to make minor adjustments for deficient recordings, I usually bump the tone controls on the Pro-Control and leave the EQ alone.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  4. #19
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    Well, the CMOS digital electronic control switches on the Pro-Control and the Pro-EQ are very sensitive but they serve their purpose which is to shorten the signal path.
    So it sounds like you don't always listen throw the EQ. Just at certain times? I always listen throw the EQ. I guess that that makes sense about the buttons but I wish they were in a different place. When I accidentally hit them it aggravates me.

  5. #20
    Senior Member LowPhreak's Avatar
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    Hey BMW, I have a RP2215-R I just got in yesterday from Audio Classics, but found the L ch. has no output, and the gain-adjusting lights don't respond when gain is raised or lowered, though all 4 do light up. Mike at AC said it checked out OK before he shipped it, but I can keep it and he'd refund my purchase price.

    Will it likely cost more to repair than it's worth? I thought these would be decent EQs, since they sport hand-wound coils instead of op-amps and should have lower noise than run-of-the-mill 10-band graphics.

    If anyone knows the S/N or other specs of these, I'd appreciate it.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowPhreak View Post
    Hey BMW, I have a RP2215-R I just got in yesterday from Audio Classics, but found the L ch. has no output, and the gain-adjusting lights don't respond when gain is raised or lowered, though all 4 do light up. Mike at AC said it checked out OK before he shipped it, but I can keep it and he'd refund my purchase price.

    Will it likely cost more to repair than it's worth? I thought these would be decent EQs, since they sport hand-wound coils instead of op-amps and should have lower noise than run-of-the-mill 10-band graphics.

    If anyone knows the S/N or other specs of these, I'd appreciate it.

    You can get a schematic here that any competent repair person should be able to use to diagnose and fix it.

    http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/aud...20RP-2215R.pdf
    Out.

  7. #22
    Senior Member LowPhreak's Avatar
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    Thanks, Dome. I'll copy it in case the tech I'm using doesn't have it.

    Anyone know the specs? Probably lost to the mists of time...

  8. #23
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    EQ's

    Does anyone know the difference between the Soundcaftsmen Pro EQ44 and the DC4415. I believe they both have 21 octaves per channel and are + or - 15db, right? But the sliders on the DC4415 look longer. They do in pics. anyway. Does one have advantages over the other? If so, what are they?

  9. #24
    Senior Member LowPhreak's Avatar
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    Longer sliders, say 20mm vs. 40mm vs. 60mm at the same +/- 15dB, mean finer control over boost/cut levels.

  10. #25
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    I've never owned a DC4415 but in my Soundcraftsmen experience the longer pots are the ones that stick over time. The shorter sliders in the Pro-EQ 44 seem to be damped differently and remain more "fluid" and smooth. I've never had one stick. I do have several DC2215s, which in Soundcraftsmen's numbering system means similar item with half as many sliders, and they can be a bit tough to move smoothly. I find the smoother slider gives me more control over the adjustment, regardless of the length of the scale.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  11. #26
    Senior Member LowPhreak's Avatar
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    Yeah true. I think I read somewhere that some of their models (perhaps older ones) like the RP-2215 never had the smoothest sliders anyway. On other models they spec'ed different ones.

    I've been cleaning them on my RP-2215 the past couple of days with CRC 2-26. I'd bet these have never been cleaned or lubed in 30+ years. Most are doing better, but still 6-8 of the 22 are a bit sticky, so I'll keep going until they smooth out, then maybe use some Faderlube. Not sure if that'll help much since I don't expect the smoothest response from them even when clean, but worth a try I reckon.

  12. #27
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    EQ's

    They also have different buttons. Would that make a difference?

  13. #28
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racinoffrd View Post
    They also have different buttons. Would that make a difference?
    What do you mean?
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  14. #29
    Member racinoffrd's Avatar
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    I mean do the different buttons make more noise on one model than the other? While you push them or just listening to music? Just a thought I really don't know just wondering. I'm asking that because I have a Pro EQ22 and I just hate how sensitive the buttons are on that. I'm also wondering if I need 21 bands. I know you can be more detailed with a 21 octave over a 10 octave but is it worth the price? Just thinking. I'm home all day so you can tell I don't have much to do but think about different things.

  15. #30
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    We've discussed your C-moss button issue previously. They just need a single touch. The conventional selector switches on the DX-series units can cause static when they get dirty. To me the pots are more important than the switches.

    Whether or not you need third-octave control depends on how you're using the EQ. If you're getting all you need out of the 2/3-octave Pro-EQ 22 then I wouldn't worry about it. Some need no EQ at all. I only use mine for Fletcher-Munson adjustments and only engage it at low volume. I never change settings for different material. I got over that craziness with my PE2217 thirty-years ago.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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