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Thread: Port my sealed boxes for dual 2206 midbass/midrange?!

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    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    Port my sealed boxes for dual 2206 midbass/midrange?!

    Hello!

    I have a pair of dual 2206 in sealded boxes 3,8 cubic feets (115l). Now I run them from 40hz to about 1000-1200hz. I think they dont give so much bass and was woundering if it would be a god idea to port them for more bass and better sound. I don`t think I can have any bigger ports than 3".

    What do you think? Any suggestions in port?

    Best regards from Sweden!

    /Karl

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Hmmm... Even the 2206's bigger brother, the venerable 2226, doesn't have much low bass. The 2206 is great for vocals though. Why don't you simply add a subwoofer to get the 20Hz-60Hz ?

    Lee

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    http://www.jblpro.com/pub/components/2206.pdf

    The 2206H/J is ideally suited for use in touring sound, fixed sound installations, and critical monitoring applications, where high SPL, low distortion and smooth response are required.

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4313B View Post
    http://www.jblpro.com/pub/components/2206.pdf

    The 2206H/J is ideally suited for use in touring sound, fixed sound installations, and critical monitoring applications, where high SPL, low distortion and smooth response are required.
    And?

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    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    I will add a sub. But I was woundering if they shouldent be ported/vented anyway or is a closed box better? I dont think I get so much at 50hz from them either.

    /Karl

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalle View Post
    I will add a sub. But I was woundering if they shouldent be ported/vented anyway or is a closed box better? I dont think I get so much at 50hz from them either.

    /Karl
    Closed is generally easier to integrate with a subwoofer- I'd not mess with it. I'm not surprised you're not getting much at 50 but with a sub you'll be okay.

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badman View Post
    Closed is generally easier to integrate with a subwoofer- I'd not mess with it. I'm not surprised you're not getting much at 50 but with a sub you'll be okay.
    I would start with a sub with the narrowest bandwidth so that you can't trace the source. Maybe 20Hz to 50Hz. Then tune the vent of your new vented box to something like 52Hz (which is the driver's resonance) to get a nice flat response down to 60Hz, which should be the bottom end for a 2206. But one problem I see is that you may want to increase the cabinet's size to get some bass.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    And?
    Evidently JBL wasted their time printing the product sheet...

    Here's another thoroughly useless link: http://www.jblpro.com/BackOffice/Pro...ts/enclgde.pdf


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    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4313B View Post
    Evidently JBL wasted their time printing the product sheet...

    Here's another thoroughly useless link: http://www.jblpro.com/BackOffice/Pro...ts/enclgde.pdf

    Hi!

    Now I get what you mean. I`we read the info. The only problem is that i already have the box and don`t want to rebuild it totaly now. So it is not as the JBL suggestion. I will rebuild the hole system later but first i want to know and test how it should be to build the final boxes. My enlish is not the best so I´t a little hard to explain what i mean sometimes

    /
    Karl

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    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    To simulate the new box, download; WinISD http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

    The program is easy to use and has many JBL parameters preinstalled.

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    Senior Member ivica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalle View Post
    Hi!

    Now I get what you mean. I`we read the info. The only problem is that i already have the box and don`t want to rebuild it totaly now. So it is not as the JBL suggestion. I will rebuild the hole system later but first i want to know and test how it should be to build the final boxes. My enlish is not the best so I´t a little hard to explain what i mean sometimes

    /
    Karl
    Hi Kalle,

    As I have understood You have TWO boxes with TWO 2206 drivers in EACH of the them. So my suggestion would be just to make a vent that would tune the box to around 40Hz. Owing to the drivers mutual coupling I can imagine that You can get -3dB below 40Hz, but some kind of mid bass reduction (around 200Hz would be well come).

    Regards
    Ivica

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    Port to 50hz then add sub.

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivica View Post
    ... So my suggestion would be just to make a vent that would tune the box to around 40Hz.
    I wouldn't tune the cabinet to a frequency lower than the driver's Fs. That's not good for controlling the membrane and a sure recipe for destruction. Let's not forget that the 2206 is a nice speaker for vocal reproduction. It was not really designed for deep bass. A sub is dfinitely needed. I also suggest downloading a free simulator (some are available for Excel - universal format) and it will give a great idea of how driver, cabinet size and port tuning are inter related. There's no way around.

    As for a free Excel simulator, I have posted a link a while, and will try to find it.

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    Senior Member maxwedge's Avatar
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    BBP6 wants a box 3.2 cf, including two 6" dia x 10.5" long ports that take up .375 cf, tuned to 50.4hz for two 2206s. F3 is at 79.8hz.
    Much better than sealed but you need a sub or a low frequency 15 speaker.

    PS: The port dimensions are optimized for minimum noise at max input of 1200 watts! Lets us know how much your are driving them with and I try with smaller ports with low port noise.

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    Senior Member ivica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    I wouldn't tune the cabinet to a frequency lower than the driver's Fs. That's not good for controlling the membrane and a sure recipe for destruction. Let's not forget that the 2206 is a nice speaker for vocal reproduction. It was not really designed for deep bass. A sub is dfinitely needed. I also suggest downloading a free simulator (some are available for Excel - universal format) and it will give a great idea of how driver, cabinet size and port tuning are inter related. There's no way around.

    As for a free Excel simulator, I have posted a link a while, and will try to find it.
    Hi Lee,

    You are right that over 200W ( 30Veff on 4 Ohm ) frequency under 25Hz would produce over Xmax (8mm) driver's cone amplitde
    Regards
    ivica
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