DIY JBL 4344 project

[ivica]

Building your house around the speakers

Paul, do you know the model number of your Beyma horns? I hope to receive "2 2441 drivers soon as upgrade from the "1 2421B but I need the 2311 type horn which is much shorter. I can't find it anywhere in the Benelux so I wonder if Beyma has made a copy suitable for "2.

Hi martin2395

I think that SELENIUM HL14-50 would be very good replacement for 2311.
http://www.parts-express.com/seleniu...-bolt--264-316
Its price about 25U$D
But a kind of lenses ( like 2308) would be welcome in order to to spread horizontal dispersion.

Regards
Ivica

[martin2395]

Hello Ivica,

Thank you for the advice, I already have the 2308 lenses but it looks like that the Selenium horn would require drilling new holes in the cabinet.
I always try to avoid any modifications that affect the visual appearance of the speaker, I don't really care what sits inside but the outside must look 100% stock.

[kawasakitech]

I remember seeing a documentary about sound/music once.
Everybody who was interviewed introduced themselves and then made their comment
Ray Charles gets as far as "R" hesitates and realizes everybody watching knows him anyway.
Then he goes on to say "I only care what it sounds like"
I know we all have different criteria but I think he's on to something

Bloys

[JBLP]

Martin, see pictures for the Beyma horns. Cast Aluminum.

Kawasakitech, this is why I use them: The guy I bought the 2425J drivers from had these also for sale; 15 euro per pcs.
I think they are exactly the same as the 2307, only black.

I got the Pertinax from a plastic products company in Utrecht; in Holland also called HAPA, hard-papier. Or it's called Tufnol, Turboniet.
They have them in all thicknesses and sizes.
Binding posts are from an intenet-shop: too much choices, too different prices (from 2 euro to 160 euro per piece). I just used common sense....
I'm a building engineer, building-management. The spindle between client, architect, constructor, contractor, government and all the rules.
I don't have a drafting background but I have to check/control/change drawings and sometimes design, so bought a CAD-program and a book "how to.....". Life can be easy!

Vahe: What a nice music room and I like you did everything yourself. I also try to do everything myself, special carpentry work. And I'm also not allowing another working on my classic car.
I live in an old farm which I still have to renovate; combination of old wood trusses details and new black steel elements. Later!
But first my 4344 project and then design an interior around it.... priority list!

[martin2395]

Thank you Paul, they look really well made! I'm gonna do a search to find out if they also made the short "2 version.

[kawasakitech]

JBLP
What do you use as a drafting program.
Your drawings look very professional, and I wouldn't expect anything less from someone in your line of work.
All I could find was 3D sketch-up for drawing houses.
I need a simple 2D drafting program, any recommendations?
Thanks

Bloys

[JBLP]

Hoi Kawasakitech.
It's AutoCad 2013. Not cheap if you have to buy it, got it from a friend. The book to learn basics was 2 euro.
I didn't reach the 3D chapter yet, but I will probably not get so far, 2D is enough for me.

I'm putting the 2405's together; will post the pictures soon.

[butlern]

Hello Chaps
i have been following this and other similar threads with interest. im busy with a project of a similar nature myself here in South Africa, involving, the purchase/ assembly of all the bits for a set of JBK 4344MK11's. i have most of the "expensive" bits now and require only the horns for the 275nd drivers, the crossovers and the foilcals. can anyone here perhaps assist with this?
i have the plans for the crossovers, but, dont have access to a reliable individual to build them. would also far rather buy the real thing if at all possible.

anyone able to help here?

regards
nigel

Martin, see pictures for the Beyma horns. Cast Aluminum.

Kawasakitech, this is why I use them: The guy I bought the 2425J drivers from had these also for sale; 15 euro per pcs.
I think they are exactly the same as the 2307, only black.

I got the Pertinax from a plastic products company in Utrecht; in Holland also called HAPA, hard-papier. Or it's called Tufnol, Turboniet.
They have them in all thicknesses and sizes.
Binding posts are from an intenet-shop: too much choices, too different prices (from 2 euro to 160 euro per piece). I just used common sense....
I'm a building engineer, building-management. The spindle between client, architect, constructor, contractor, government and all the rules.
I don't have a drafting background but I have to check/control/change drawings and sometimes design, so bought a CAD-program and a book "how to.....". Life can be easy!

Vahe: What a nice music room and I like you did everything yourself. I also try to do everything myself, special carpentry work. And I'm also not allowing another working on my classic car.
I live in an old farm which I still have to renovate; combination of old wood trusses details and new black steel elements. Later!
But first my 4344 project and then design an interior around it.... priority list!

[kawasakitech]

JBLP
Do your 2405s use stainless steel hardware?
My 2447s do but my 2425s do not.
I don't know which were produced first.
The 2447s also have studs to mount to horns and the 2425s have ordinary bolts that you can buy at any hardware store, they didn't even have washers but I put some on.
I am wondering if this is a cost cutting measure by the product cheapening department (accountants/bean counters)
Has any one experimented if this is audible and hence worthwhile to up grade.

Bloys

[mech986]

JBLP
Do your 2405s use stainless steel hardware?
My 2447s do but my 2425s do not.
I don't know which were produced first.
The 2447s also have studs to mount to horns and the 2425s have ordinary bolts that you can buy at any hardware store, they didn't even have washers but I put some on.
I am wondering if this is a cost cutting measure by the product cheapening department (accountants/bean counters)
Has any one experimented if this is audible and hence worthwhile to up grade.

Bloys

JBL used appropriate alloys, metals, and materials where it was appropriate. I'm not aware of stainless steel being used in the 2405 bolts but they are good quality flat head machine screws for the mounting plates, and a round head or pan head machine screw for the center diffuser mount. I'm not aware of any audible difference encountered by using any exotic hardware to mount the horns to the compression drivers. What is required is sufficiently strong hardware torqued with appropriate force to hold the driver to the horn. since the vast majority of compression drivers seem to hold pretty well (and sometimes with cradles to support the driver weight), JBL's choice of hardware seems ok to me.

[JBLP]

Hey Kawasakitech.
No, no stainless steel items. I cleaned and polished all, so maybe that's why they look stainless (without stains.....).
The screws and rings are steel, the big square black painted rings and the visible black "split-parts" are aluminum.
The binding posts look like chromed or otherwise coated.

Thanks mech986; feeling the weight it indeed seems the appropriate materials.

[JBLP]

Hey ds23man.
Another cheese-head. Thanks for viewing.
Does the Ds23 comes from Citroen? What's your JBL connection; any collection / DIY?
Paul

[ds23man]

Hey ds23man.
Another cheese-head. Thanks for viewing.
Does the Ds23 comes from Citroen? What's your JBL connection; any collection / DIY?
Paul

Paul I do own a Citroen DS23ie Pallas.


I have been working in the pro audioscene as a sound engineer from 1985, mainly with JBL powered speakers.

My current home setup is a two active system with 2235H low and B&G RD-50 high, Hypex Ncore amps and Hypex DLCP digital xover.

[JBLP]

Cut the holes in the back panel for the connection terminals.
The Pertinax board with the terminals will be fixed from the inside.
I like the terminals to be recessed, so the cabinet can be put on its back later.

[JBLP]

Put the 2405's together with 2402 dia's; have to start with these.
When the final sound / frequency response is noticeable shortcoming, I have to score the right 2405 dia's.