Hi folks. I inherited a bunch of audio equipement. I am not an audio person at all so trying to see what I have, does it have any value, and if no value how to get it to the right people who could enjoy/use it. Not the best picture I know. They taper down in the back to round heavy (driver?) magnet?
Many thanks!
Generally speaking, audio folks would need to see brand names and model numbers to get interested about speaker parts for sale.Originally Posted by a_gunslinger
Hi folks. I inherited a bunch of audio equipement. I am not an audio person at all so trying to see what I have, does it have any value, and if no value how to get it to the right people who could enjoy/use it. Not the best picture I know. They taper down in the back to round heavy (driver?) magnet?
Many thanks!
CLEAR pictures of labels usually on the back of the magnet part of the speaker - preferably not blurry cell phone pictures.
Good luck with your sale!
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I have no idea what they are or if they have any monetary value, but perhaps Google could help you find the next clue
https://www.google.ca/search?q=altec...t4HQAw#imgrc=_
They look like Altec sectorials. Maybe 811's look to small to be 511's. Take a look at the driver on the back get the model number that will help you figure things out. You have what look like an Altec crossover up on the shelf get those model numbers as well. Take a look in the catalogs
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/.../altec-cat.htm
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Those are altec 511b horns; I have a pair. Ring like a freaking bell but good for starting out at a cheap cost.
As disgusting as it seems, I used an acrylic asphalt patching material ( like you would use to repair a leak on a roof flashing or a crack in your asphalt driveway) to coat the entire outer horn flare, adding substantial mass to the outer parts which ring the most (not visible from the front at all). This took care of most of the ringing. For two pairs I stopped there and was quite satisfied with the results. In fact I think they were the best sounding 511Bs I had ever heard in my forty years of experience in pro audio and reviving old installations for those churches and schools on tight budgets.
But you KNOW how we can all be sometimes ...
I did the same to my third pair (all 6 were 511Bs, mind you) I then used a thinned down (Have to use alcohol to thin this stuff down enough to paint with it - it is made for "dipping" and leaving a thick coating of rubbery-like acrylic substance on tool handles) material that is used to coat tool handles with a soft rubber grip. I actually used a cloth shotgun cleaner to coat the throat and then one of those tiny rollers for the rest of the inner horn areas, still keeping it as thin as possible.
This last pair of horns came out so "dead" that I thought I had gone a little too far, possibly.The other two pairs sound pretty damn good, just with the outer coating, adding mass without altering the inner surface.
I think there is a reason that when JBL went to the urethane horns they stopped with a really hardened inner surface compound. Those horns are thick and ribbed, but they still have a shiny HARD surface on the inner pathways. There is no ringing to speak of and there is a super reflectivity within inside surfaces.
I say from my perfunctory testing, add mass to the outer surfaces, but leave the inner surfaces as smooth and hard as possible.
I essentially potted my 511s in polyurethane construction adhesive, the stuff you get at Home Depot. The front bells are filled, and the flared body of the horn behind the flange has a healthy coating back to the neck. Needless to say, any ringing is gone. It made a huge improvement. I didn't touch the inner surface of the horn.
Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002
If I did or rather tried something like that all I would accomplish is a huge mess. But poly work pretty well at the task of damping the ringing I imagine.
Trying to avoid a mess is why I chose to try the acrylic asphalt patching material.
It is thick enough that it simply can not drip and you can still put it on with a roller (throw all your tools away after you are done - not worth trying to clean up). Also make sure that you use the ACRYLIC version of "patching compound!" Any of the other types may not have enough adhesive quality to make the bond permanent.
I used something similar on the horn flares of my altec 828's. Asphalt roof cement. Its pretty thick. Used a putty knife to put it on. It works pretty well. But if you get it on something it doesn't come off.
Surprisingly not to stinky though.
Acrylic is not stinky either, but it seems as if we are on the same page ....
Add a bunch or at least some mass to the OUTSIDE with some compound that will not rattle off and leave the inside alone, basically, right!
Acrylic is not stinky either, but it seems as if we are on the same page ....
Add a bunch or at least some mass to the OUTSIDE with some compound that will not rattle off and leave the inside alone, basically, right!
Yep.
I haven't done any experiments to prove or disprove it, but my notion is that the inner contours of the horn are pretty critical, so I left it alone.
Oppo BDP-95 DCX-2496 RMX-850 Parasound A21 First Watt J2 Dayton RSS390HF-4 MTM Quads of SEAS W18E001 511Bs TAD TD-2002
They are. But I boubt small changes will have much of an effect. Now Im sure that changes as frequencies go up. At least Im making that assumption.
Nick
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