Every free second I get I still run to the 2-channel room to spin some vinyl. I'm used to the sound now so I can't give a lot of useful comparison info. I think my earlier posts are better in that regard.
all I can say is that there was plenty of room for improvement in those old L250 xovers...
jblnut
Originally Posted by JuniorJBL
How do the new networks compare to the old?
As soon as my shop is done, This will be one of my first projects "Changing from L250's to 250Ti's"
Shane
I jump back and forth, as to wheather I like 2 channel, or multi-channel music best. Both being done on my L212 system. But at this time my vinyl just sits. I need to get a phono pre-amp to connect to my H/K AVR 635, or my Marantz 880 and L55s.
Do you know where I can buy one?
Sure - just about anywhere. Ebay, audiogon, craiglist, your local audio shop, etc. I'd recommend doing some web research and reading before you purchase. You can spend $20 or $2000 - it all depends on just far into the vinyl realm you want to go...
jblnut
http://www.needledoctor.com/s.nl/c.A...ategory.401/.f
look here
It's so obvious in this case: www.phonopreamps.com
These folks give you many choices at decent prices. You'll need to scroll down past the Paypal info, then you'll see a lot of choices.
Of course you can Google other sources with "phono preamp" and find $200 to $1500 units if you prefer.
Out.
Would you say that cc'ing the crossovers is a better way to go or would you suggest using better caps (or bypassing or both). I was reading the thread from Ian about his endeavors with cc'ing and see he has found some differances between the two. Also what would be your thought about having the crossover outside the cab? I would like your input as you have worked with the 250's alot.
Thanks
Shane
I like the idea of crossovers outside the enclosures.
I, meaning me, would charge couple the N250Ti instead of spending huge sums of money on really expensive capacitors.
Examine the 40 uF series capacitor on the 108H, the 10 uF series capacitor on the 104H, and the 2.7 uF series capacitor on the 044Ti.
Solen:
PB270 = $1.89
PB1000 = $4.02
PB3900 = $10.44
Solen Biased:
PB510 = $2.54 + PB560 = $2.64 = $5.18
PB2000 = $5.75 + PB2000 = $5.75 = $11.50
PB7500 = $17.07 + PB8200 = $18.32 = $35.39
Sonicap:
2.7 uF = $8.00
10.0 uF = $17.60
20.0 uF = $27.25 + 20.0 uF = $27.25 = $54.50
And now Sonic Craft is saying all those Sonicaps were GEN I and should probably be bypassed with GEN II caps so add $4.60 for each 0.01 uF you add to each main capacitor.
The Sonicap is a revolutionary product! How is it revolutionary? It redefines the price-to-performance ratio for "audio capacitors". The Sonicap is the "entry level" of its design. However, the design is world class! The Sonicap will yield or exceed the performance found in the most prestigious of boutique caps, yet with a price conducive to that of "entry level".
Sonicap Biased:
Um, I'm bored now and want to do something else instead of adding that all up.
BTW, as Ian pointed out, Sonicraft has greatly expanded their offerings. - http://www.soniccraft.com/products/capacitors/film.htm - Their stuff is good and Jeff can be helpful if so inclined.
Unfortunately for you, you will have to make the determination yourself.
I think I will go for the crossovers outside the box (think outside the bun)
Maybe I will try some of the solen-biased first. This should keep the cost of the crossover lower. This way I will have some sort of a baseline for changing/upgrading in the future.
Thanks again for your input.
Good idea. You should be able to build the networks so it is real easy to slip different capacitor types in and out.
those cc'd networks, It looks like you still kept the autotransformer. Is this the case for all LMF/MF/UHF?
What autotransformer? The L250 had one but the 250Ti did not.
I'm sorry I ment the tapped coils
Edit: Sorry I just found this http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...s=&postid=2306
I had not seen this before.
My Bad
It looks like I will be building another pair of biased 250Ti networks after all.
lcsteve
I wish to change mine to a biased network but have difficulty in removing the lower rear panel to access the crossover boards. I had unscrew all screws but it appears that the panel remain unmovable even applying some pressure to remove it. I don't want to damage the woodwork. Is the lower (big) panel stick to the box or for any other reasons? Alternatively, can I have access via the front by removing the bass speaker? Any suggestions appreciated.
I finished the last pair of biased 1984 style N250Ti networks I'll ever build last night.
You remove the LE14H-1 and then unbolt the N250Ti from the back and bring it out through the LE14H-1 mounting hole.
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