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Thread: almost full range enclosure for guitar build advice E140/E110/2213

  1. #46
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    all great info.

    i suspect with this box size I'll never plumb the depths anyway. I'd need a huge sub and some 18" driver or hyper modern thing for lots of money.

    Various other problems remain such as whether I can get the existing baffle out of those box i have (collecting it at start of August) but we'll cross those bridges when we come to them.

    thanks to all

  2. #47
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by parker_knoll View Post
    Macaroonie, thanks

    Using ISD online i found a pretty good curve for a 90 litre box tuned to 50Hz for the 2225H.
    If I were you, I would use the 2225's Fs40 as your tuning frequency. You will reach lower by tuning the cabinet to 40Hz, and I would also increase the volume to 5cft (140 litres.) If you want bass, you need volume. BTW That 2225 can also do well in a bigger 10cft cab ;-)

  3. #48
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    Hi Lee

    thanks for that but I'm working with an existing box so it's more a case of finding a driver to suit it and getting the best i can out of it.

    Thanks

    Toby

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    If I were you, I would use the 2225's Fs40 as your tuning frequency. You will reach lower by tuning the cabinet to 40Hz, and I would also increase the volume to 5cft (140 litres.) If you want bass, you need volume. BTW That 2225 can also do well in a bigger 10cft cab ;-)

  4. #49
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Sorry, I kinda missread some info. My apologies. ;-)

    Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    Sorry, I kinda missread some info. My apologies. ;-)

    Lee
    no biggie

    it may be a stupid idea anyway

  6. #51
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    The usual electric guitar speaker uses a woofer with a metal dome. Which your e140 has. Or should have. That's all you need. If you need more high fequencies, then perhaps a simple 2402 tweeter will do. It does 3kHz to 15KHz at best.



    For shows or play loud, you'll need a proper cabinet ;-)


  7. #52
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    Hi Lee

    The E110 also has a metal dome as do the E120s I'm using at the moment.

    The E110 goes a fair bit higher than the the E140 and to be honest i didn't really like the sound of the E140 compared to the E110/120. I can't say exactly why that was, but in character it was very different. It sounded "drier". The E120 has a distinct midrange hump the E140 may have lacked. I ended up selling it. E140 is a mid bass - doesn't do highs, doesn't do mega lows. it was intended for bass guitar use.

    A two-way cabinet combining 2226 and E110 should give me pretty good response from 50Hz all the way to to about 7k.

    I want midrange and extended bass. I don't want HF so I don't want a tweeter. If i decide later on i need HF I can add a tweeter.

    JBL did at one point make a couple of 3-ways using the E110 and the E155 18" driver:

    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Cab...ries/4698B.pdf
    http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Cab...ries/4699B.pdf

    Another midrange option for my cabinet would be the 2118, which are usually very cheap, but no metal dome on those

  8. #53
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    I believe in your 2226/e-110 kombo. Very good sound at reasonable price.

    Do not cross over too high though. The vented bass cabinet can give you problems higher up, and 2226 is not famous for its good midrange. I would say 200 Hz, but then you need an electronic crossover.

    Did you already build the box?

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    I believe in your 2226/e-110 kombo. Very good sound at reasonable price.

    Do not cross over too high though. The vented bass cabinet can give you problems higher up, and 2226 is not famous for its good midrange. I would say 200 Hz, but then you need an electronic crossover.

    Did you already build the box?
    no, i bought the box used. i liked the look This is for onstage use so that's not unimportant.
    It's also very well made. Had the original price tag of GBP599 on it and I got it for GBP100.

    The trick will be getting the baffle out without wrecking it. I did some drawings and I think there is room for the 15" and the 10" if I run them both right to the corners.

    Name:  $_86.JPG
Views: 568
Size:  157.2 KB

    Name:  $_86.JPG
Views: 650
Size:  103.2 KB

    I have an electronic crossover but was hoping to avoid using it as that then requires biamping. Could I not go with a passive crossover at about 600Hz?

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    how about a 2235?

    hi, slight derail. I just ran ISDonline for the 2235 and it looks ideal. Optimal box size is 95lt tuned to 32Hz which matches what i have really well.

    Any views on them?

    now to find one for sale.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by parker_knoll View Post
    hi, slight derail. I just ran ISDonline for the 2235 and it looks ideal. Optimal box size is 95lt tuned to 32Hz which matches what i have really well.

    Any views on them?

    now to find one for sale.
    Fs=20 hz. Must be a hifi driver with foam surround. Avoid.

    If you want something better for your application, look for 2220, D/K/E-130. These have much better cone than 2226 and will produce excellent midrange. Go for a driver with metal dustcap since it looks much cooler :-). With that kind of driver you can easily cut at 600 Hz provided there are no problems with the ports.

    Probably you want to put the 10 inch in a dogbox to avoid interference with the 15 inch.

  12. #57
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    yep, foam surround

    E130 doesn't cut it in the low frequencies. it's a mid speaker really. i've had one in the past and i did run it through the ISD to check. Can't really get anything below about 80Hz.

    2220 is also not giving me good curves below about 90Hz.

    A better option is probably E145 if I can find one. they apparently have good midrange. used in the 4628B cabinet crossing over at 800Hz.

    E110 will be boxed, something from 10 to 20 litres and lined.

    Just to reiterate, the idea is that the E110 will handle mid and upper mid, and i need something to extend the bass downwards, otherwise I might as well not bother. So far 2226 or E145 (along with some non-JBL drivers ***shhhh***) are giving the best curves.

    Re. the crossovers, there are 250Hz passive crossovers and even below. is there any reason to fear these?

    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    Fs=20 hz. Must be a hifi driver with foam surround. Avoid.

    If you want something better for your application, look for 2220, D/K/E-130. These have much better cone than 2226 and will produce excellent midrange. Go for a driver with metal dustcap since it looks much cooler :-). With that kind of driver you can easily cut at 600 Hz provided there are no problems with the ports.

    Probably you want to put the 10 inch in a dogbox to avoid interference with the 15 inch.

  13. #58
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    no, i bought the box used. i liked the look This is for onstage use so that's not unimportant.
    It's also very well made.
    I suggest that you keep the box as it is. Rebuilding it will not be worth the effort. Put the 10 inch in a separate cabinet if you want to experiment.

    Get a good 15 inch driver for this nice cabinet. JBL D130 or K130. Original D130 with paper surround are impossible to get, but with cloth surround should be quite easy. If using this outdoors go for a D130F, F for Fender. The D130F was first used in Fender Showman. The F is water resistant.

    K130 is almost like D130. D130 has a paper bobin, K has kapton. They both have alnico magnet and will be lighter than the E130.

    A D130 in good shape should be able to produce 5 kHz. It will beam badly though. This is not a problem if you play into a microphone.

    Save your idea of a 2-way system until you can get a beaten up 4x12 cabinet, or something like the SRX i rebuilt. With that kind of cabinet you can get proper bass as well as have place for a 10 inch driver. Proper bass needs big cabinets.

  14. #59
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    Re. the crossovers, there are 250Hz passive crossovers and even below. is there any reason to fear these?
    Properly made will be very expensive. The low frequencies require large components witch can handle the current.

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    thanks, i hear you. I have indeed thought about just sticking an E130 in here and having a "surf" cab.

    I prefer the E series because i don't like the sound of the Ds and the Ks with guitar overdrive.

    I saw your thread on the SRX. Very good work. there are lots of those things about. There's even one (can't remember the number) with 2 x 2226 and a tweeter already fitted

    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    I suggest that you keep the box as it is. Rebuilding it will not be worth the effort. Put the 10 inch in a separate cabinet if you want to experiment.

    Get a good 15 inch driver for this nice cabinet. JBL D130 or K130. Original D130 with paper surround are impossible to get, but with cloth surround should be quite easy. If using this outdoors go for a D130F, F for Fender. The D130F was first used in Fender Showman. The F is water resistant.

    K130 is almost like D130. D130 has a paper bobin, K has kapton. They both have alnico magnet and will be lighter than the E130.

    A D130 in good shape should be able to produce 5 kHz. It will beam badly though. This is not a problem if you play into a microphone.

    Save your idea of a 2-way system until you can get a beaten up 4x12 cabinet, or something like the SRX i rebuilt. With that kind of cabinet you can get proper bass as well as have place for a 10 inch driver. Proper bass needs big cabinets.

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