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Thread: DIY 4520 bass horn build

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mostlydiy View Post
    By the way, shelves are way over hyped...

    Attachment 58604
    Thats funny. Great minds think alike you know

  2. #47
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    Why don´t you use a few extra screws when fastening those shelves. Double 4520 will make thinks fall down from the walls
    https://dl.dropbox.com/u/106944188/2...5 20.20.27.mp4

    And fences at the edge of the shelves.

    Sorry for the spam

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mostlydiy View Post
    Why don´t you use a few extra screws when fastening those shelves. Double 4520 will make thinks fall down from the walls

    15 to 30Hz that sure is ULF... I suppose you will be using whose subs for HT and gaming and not so much for music

    /Mostly

    3 words, pipe organ music. I'm really getting into it. But it will never see gaming or ht service. Tunes are it.

    I got it pretty much together. Just the back and the last reflector left. The cutting the driver holes and jack plate. Then paint.

    I'll post pics tomorrow morning.

  4. #49
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    Heres 2 pics of the work I did last night. I must say that this one is going together much easier then the first. Buying a good circ saw really helped. Much more powerful and accurite then the cheap craftsman I was using. Also the rip cut works great. It cut so much time off the build.

    Hopefully Ill finish it tonight. Then I still have to paint it. Im not going to put the driver in it until its upstairs this time.

    Nick

  5. #50
    Senior Member Mostlydiy's Avatar
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    Im not going to put the driver in it until its upstairs this time.
    Good thinking!

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mostlydiy View Post
    Good thinking!
    Made that mistake the first time.

  7. #52
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    Hey Nick,

    You are jamming! I wish I had half your enthusiasm and diligence; I'd be a lot further along on my Onken/Altec project if I were. On a positive note, I did manage to haul off all my wood and have it cut to size today. 30 minutes on a 12" Grizzly industrial table saw and it was done. It would have taken me the better part of a day to do the same with just the circular saw and guide, perhaps quicker if I had a Rip-Cut like you. This weekend I will begin drilling holes for dowels and lining everything up. I guess I got me a project now!

    I meant to ask, are you using the PL Premium exclusively on the horns or are you also using some wood glue?

    Willy

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by intercity125 View Post
    Hey Nick,

    You are jamming! I wish I had half your enthusiasm and diligence; I'd be a lot further along on my Onken/Altec project if I were. On a positive note, I did manage to haul off all my wood and have it cut to size today. 30 minutes on a 12" Grizzly industrial table saw and it was done. It would have taken me the better part of a day to do the same with just the circular saw and guide, perhaps quicker if I had a Rip-Cut like you. This weekend I will begin drilling holes for dowels and lining everything up. I guess I got me a project now!

    I meant to ask, are you using the PL Premium exclusively on the horns or are you also using some wood glue?

    Willy

    12 minutes eh. Must be a beast. I'd love to have one of those big cabinet shop saws. It would take up my whole garage. Not to mention the cost. Grizzly makes nice stuff for the cost. I ordered their the drill press mills at work. Great machine. I'm planning on buying one of there tables. Can't beat there prices. Wood to industrial work bench table for less then a grand.

    As for the pl premium yes for the most part. I did use some pva on the corner joints on the frame. Seems to work better with the biscuits.I can't say enough good about that rip cut. It probably shaved a days work off the project in setting up the cuts alone. Best 30 buck I've ever spent.

    the only thing left to do on the horn is just the hole for the jack plate and mount it. Then paint and put in the rock wool. I'll see if I can tell any difference between the two. The other horn has fiber glass in it.

    If I'm lucky I'll have it upstairs this weekend. I'm going to try sand loading them too. Something I read the Horn man him self talk about Dr Bruce Edgar. Putting a bag of sand on the bottom of the horn mouth is suppose to help them out. Don't really see how. But I figure that a bag of sand is cheap enough.

    I'll post a pic in the morning.

  9. #54
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    Heres the work as of last night. All thats left is to cut the hole for the jack plate, sand and paint. Then the hard work starts. I have to move it upstairs, LOL.



    Nick

  10. #55
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    First coat of paint is on. Hope to have the upstairs by Sunday.

    If I can get a hand that is.

  11. #56
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Hi Nick. Good work.

    You are an Altec A7 guy, right? So you will understand if I mentionned that you should definitely reinforce/rib/brace that rear panel on your 4520. At around 36" x 48" it is a large flat surface that will resonate at nothing. This resonance is lost energy.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    Hi Nick. Good work.

    You are an Altec A7 guy, right? So you will understand if I mentionned that you should definitely reinforce/rib/brace that rear panel on your 4520. At around 36" x 48" it is a large flat surface that will resonate at nothing. This resonance is lost energy.


    I know . I havent done it yet. Im not going to go the normal route though. Im going to use some metal angle iron on them and be done with it. Just havent done it yet.


    I do have some alnico frams on the way that will be re coned as e130's. Ill probably do 2 at first to see how I like them in the horns. If I do Ill do the other one. I still need one more frame though. At the moment Ive got 1 d140f and 2 late d130's. Ill probably try and get another d140f fram to use. There close enoung that I wont worry when they have the same moving assemble.


    But If I dont like the e130's in them Ill put 2235 cones in them and have them work the bottom. But that a ways away still.


    Im renting a appliance dolly tonight. Im hoping I can get it upstairs. I tried the other night by myself but It wants happening. I was trying to slide it up the stairs. But ya it was a stupid thing to try. Im lucky I didnt take out a wall or hurt myself, LOL.


    Live and learn, and dont be impatient.

  13. #58
    Senior Member ivica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickH View Post
    I know . I havent done it yet. Im not going to go the normal route though. Im going to use some metal angle iron on them and be done with it. Just havent done it yet.


    I do have some alnico frams on the way that will be re coned as e130's. Ill probably do 2 at first to see how I like them in the horns. If I do Ill do the other one. I still need one more frame though. At the moment Ive got 1 d140f and 2 late d130's. Ill probably try and get another d140f fram to use. There close enoung that I wont worry when they have the same moving assemble.


    But If I dont like the e130's in them Ill put 2235 cones in them and have them work the bottom. But that a ways away still.


    Im renting a appliance dolly tonight. Im hoping I can get it upstairs. I tried the other night by myself but It wants happening. I was trying to slide it up the stairs. But ya it was a stupid thing to try. Im lucky I didnt take out a wall or hurt myself, LOL.


    Live and learn, and dont be impatient.
    Hi NickH,

    1. I am not sure that E130 cone would be strong enough in horn 'loading'. May be better E140 cone.
    2. As You have mentioned You are planing to use AlNiCo frames. Be aware that such drivers are sensitive to demagnetization if driven hard ( I can guess over 100W, even in very short time period), so may be better to use E130/140 frames ( ferrite magnet )

    Regards
    ivica

  14. #59
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    Hi Ivica,

    Thanks for the concern. The d130 was one of the stock driver use in the bass horn so I'm betting there won't be much of a issue. I'm looking to use them with a single ended tube amp so there won't be a lot of power on them. Maybe 60 watts max. But still probably be more like 30 watts.

    Nick

    Quote Originally Posted by ivica View Post
    Hi NickH,

    1. I am not sure that E130 cone would be strong enough in horn 'loading'. May be better E140 cone.
    2. As You have mentioned You are planing to use AlNiCo frames. Be aware that such drivers are sensitive to demagnetization if driven hard ( I can guess over 100W, even in very short time period), so may be better to use E130/140 frames ( ferrite magnet )

    Regards
    ivica

  15. #60
    Administrator Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Hey Nick, really nice build you got going on there. In your earlier picture with the two different horns in the room, how big is that room? How far back do you typically listen?

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