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Thread: JBL 2360 - new install

  1. #16
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    Hi Lee,

    2360's are big fun aren't they. I still like mine a lot. How much EQ Re you putting to them? I found that over the long run they sound most natural with the JBL CD compensation curve or something close to that.

    When it comes to drivers and diaphragms, in my opinion, the 2446 or a 2450 with the ribbed Ti diaphragm sound the best when running without tweeters. It's not clean HF energy but its there but it's there. A real 2441 sounds worse and Be diaphragms even worse as they require more and more EQ on top. By about 12kHz the big drivers are operating under the electrical and physical constraints of an 18dB low pass filter. It's the Ribbed Ti diaphragm ringing on, superimposed on the clean output that is responsible for the extra output up high.

    As for the harshness way down low, I don't think it has much to do with the amount of air moving in the diffraction slot as it is the amount of air moving in the front cavity, between the diaphragm and phase plug. 194dB is about the limit that air can be modulated without gross distortion, that is quite easily achieved in the airspace in the front cavity operating at a 10 to 1 compression ratio, especially at low frequencies where the diaphragm motion is large.

    Anyway I hope you have fun with them!

    All the best,
    Barry.
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

  2. #17
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1audiohack View Post
    How much EQ Re you putting to them?
    I have just begun tweaking them. Perhaps I am asking them to sound brighter than they should. I am currently listening to as much music as I can to find the bst compromise between styles, punch and hearing fatigue. So far, here's what I have. Also what sounds great at low volume seems to harsh at high volume, and what is fine at high volume is dull when played quietly. So far, I am trying to tweak toward "flatter". Step by step.

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  3. #18
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    Just use a D2 (lacks counterweight properties though).

    They aren't meant to play quietly so just go with what sounds right really loud.

    Have you tried cutting the bottom end instead of jacking up the top end?

  4. #19
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4313B View Post
    Just use a D2 (lacks counterweight properties though).
    D2?

    This? http://www.jblpro.com/press/Jan12/JB...erNAMM_D2.html

    BMS also makes one. Two drivers in one.
    http://bmsspeakers.com/index.php?id=bms_4592nd

  5. #20
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    BMS, don't do it. It's not only not the same thing, it has some insurmountable problems I believe. I couldn't make them work anywhere near my satisfaction.
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

  6. #21
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    So far, my next step of exploration is pretty simple.

    - Just add a 2245-based sub as I miss the 20-40Hz octave
    - Or remove the 2226s and make two cabs a 2245 in each and cross my fingers I can reach 500Hz (which I think won't happen). Or cross at 200 with a slow slope.

    I am trying to keep it as simple as possible. Lee

  7. #22
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    I have also sent for production a small batch of 2506C stands made from 1/8" aluminum.

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  8. #23
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    I just made a small batch of 2506 stands repros. They are cut from aluminum for lighter weight. I am testing the stability. It holds but I will probably bolt them to a piece of nice plywood so that it is more balanced front to rear. I increased the track (width) for added stability. Seems to work fine. And I considering I have been looking for a set of original stands for weeks, well, a man's got to do what man's got to do. Fabricate them.

    Lee




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  9. #24
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    I like active speaker controls, but the CD eq shaping should always be done with a series cap speaker-level, IME. It does require care be taken so that spiky impedance profiles don't mess up the filter, but the reward is that your drivers have a nice protection mechanism.

    And EQ is almost always best done by cutting rather than boosting, as hinted at earlier in the thread.

    Very cool looking setup- I always liked your "projecting" 2235H cabs.

  10. #25
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    I have a pair of 2360 in my garage that I'd like to hook up once. I have a pair of 375, but they are attached to the horn throats of the Olympus set they belong so, and I don't want to break apart their 40+ year marriage. Would the 2420 through the 1">2" adaptor (can't remember the type, but I have 2 of them) work also on the 2360?

  11. #26
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    I like the idea of using a cap in serie. And it indeed adds protection. Anyone has substituted electronic correction for a simple cap? This 2445 is 16 Ohms with the original diaphragm. Actually I put back a Solen 47µF cap for protection. That's a first order filter at something like 200Hz. Well outside of the range.

  12. #27
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank23 View Post
    I have a pair of 2360 in my garage that I'd like to hook up once. I have a pair of 375, but they are attached to the horn throats of the Olympus set they belong so, and I don't want to break apart their 40+ year marriage. Would the 2420 through the 1">2" adaptor (can't remember the type, but I have 2 of them) work also on the 2360?
    I don't know if the 2420 will go as low as 4" diaphragm, but it should go higher as the lesser mass leads to less mass break. Why not try them? The more I live with those horns, the more I like them. I could be 2 feet away, or 10 feet away, they don't break my ears. and the sound is so nicely spread around the room.

  13. #28
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    Your New 2360 Brackets

    Great job Lee! I am impressed with your skills. Kudos!
    ___________
    Best Regards,
    Carl Huff

  14. #29
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    D2

    Lee have you been hibernating. The D2 works in a totally different fashion to the BMS. The BMS is a two way coaxial comression driver. It has a 3" MF annular dia and a 1.75" dome dia , passive crossover somewhere in the mix I assume.

    The JBL D2 has two annular dias that work like this and the air in between is collected and fed to the phase plug and out to the waveguide.

    See here http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...-Monitor/page6
    post 88 for a cross section.

    If you have genuinely missed all the hoo ha about this read the whole thread and then go to the JBL pro site and get the skinny and then you tube anything you can find about the VTX series line arrays. They use 3 D2's per box and the field reports are glowing with praise.

  15. #30
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    I love that dude.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxQrXhndphE

    Damn, how long until we can see some D2 drivers pop up on the used market at decent prices?

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