The painted front and back section..............make it smooth , then spray primer and flat black? Spray paint? Or is it semi-gloss spray paint?
Also plan on just tung oiling the veneer. I was told that would work but I needed to wipe it off after application. Thats also the same way that I apply stain wipe on then wipe off, then do it again if its not dark enough.
Hope everyone had a good Monday......l8tr
Oh yea picked up a pioneer sx 5580 from ebay that should make the l300's sound great!
It doesn't sound bad on these 4312's.....I'll do a recap on it later.
Hey Travis,
Tung oil creates an awesome finish. But your surface has to be spotless. Put it takes a long time to do a good tung oil finish. Weeks if I remember right. Ive read up on it. Theres a lot of things you need to know about it before you try it. Its not just putting the oil on and there you have it. But as usual, your patiaence will be rewarded. I love that glossy glass like finsh over wood. Nothing better. I know you can thin it down with something and it make it dry faster but produces a less glossy finish. I think it was acetone or some other solvent that evaps quickly. Just remember a tung oil finish never drys completely. So if you put something on it that will wick the oil, it will.
I think the bondo really shines on the corners. I found it very easy to work. But just remember to work with it in small batches otherwise you will be wasting some. It starts to set quick. And once it starts you have to stop working it otherwise the stuff you did will be trash. It get all clumpy and has big voids in it. But just take your time and have fun with it. Read up on the tung oil before you buy some. Just to make sure your up for that. Unless of course you already know this. In that case nevermind.
Originally Posted by travis5049
I did a dresser in tung oil some years ago, the thing was painted the most horrible pink. I was at a garage sale and the owner wasn't really paying attention so I scraped off a bit of paint on the cabinet and it was the same wood as the inside of the drawers so I knew it would be a good candidate for staining. We stripped it and stained it. Every few years or so I clean it thoroughly and tung oil it again. It was solid ash wood. Every xmas when my daughter visits she tries to talk me into giving to her. I had a glass top cut for it and put on really cool pull knobs.I think I'll have one of these cabs done this weekend if I'm lucky but I'm still not sure of the paint.
Well your ahead of me. I've only read into it. I was thinking about doing that on my altec 828 cabinets after I verneered them. But I ended up painting them and not using veneer.
Those 828's are some monsters. My neighbor came by cause I told him that I probably was going to sell my 120ti's if I refinished my l300's and he's seen me out in the garage working on the l300 cabinets. He acted like he just wanted to catch up on old news and then he said right before he left that he'd give me 300.00 for my 120ti's...............I told him goodwill was across town.lol
I paid about 365 for these cause the guy needed the money real bad, but the things area almost perfect and you can't find these just everyday. But honestly my 4312's sound better. I may have Austin Speaker Works look at these 120's after I get done with this project just to see if the x'overs are right.......Hell I may keep them and put them in the bedroom. What part of Houston are you in? I DJ'ed up and down NASA RD1 in the 80's and 90's. Worked at several clubs out that way, graduated in TC. That's how I ended up with these l300's.
Have a good night
Lol, 828's big. You should see there replacements. I'm building jbl 4520 copies. Not exact though as mine are a little thinner and a tad taller. I tested them out this weekend with my 2445/ 2380 horns one top crossed crossed at 800 Hz. All I can say is I'm in love. I wasn't topped out and was hitting over 120 db. It was crystal clear. I was pushing sine waves to the bass horns and was making this fly in my garage. It was great fun. Can't wait to build the second one. I'm actually in Cypress and not in Houston. Just put Houston because its know. I went to school in cyfair. I imagine I'm one of the young ones on this site being in my early mid thirties.
Only time I was in clear lake was when I worked at jsc for a while working on computers.
Does Austin speaker work re magnetize alnico drivers? Been trying to find a close place that does that.
Nick
I asked him to check mine and he said he would, he is an authorized JBL service center so he should have the capability. He still has my x-overs and one of my drivers so when I see him next I'll ask him. They have South by Southwest going on in Austin right now or Hell it may be over by now, in any case they were pretty busy last time I was in there to pick up the driver that he had finished. He's partially recapping my X-over's, those large lower caps are covered in resin so he said the bench time that he would have to charge to replace the lower caps would be crazy.Heres his email address if you want to pick his brain.. [email protected] Have a good one.
Oh yea I should have my test veneer project done this weekend and if it looks good then this one cabinet will be done by Tuesday........cross your fingers.
I might be a little late with this, but there is a product by Minwax called "wood hardener"; it's used to repair rotted wood.The wood wisks it up, and then hardens. It's cheaper than the CA, which I'm a big fan of. And Bondo is all you should be useing on those edges. The wood filler is really only for filling nail holes, and light scratches. Good luck with your project
I agree completely, unfortunately it's a little late now that he's used the wood filler. I've never used wood hardener... I'll check it out.
Widget
Smooth, check.
Primer, it helps if there is any bare wood. If the original paint surface is intact after sanding, you can get away without it but probably shouldn't. In any case a black primer makes the most sense.
Trim Black from an Auto Paint shop. I use SEM 39143 from the local NAPA store that specializes in paint.
Just make sure to let it dry a long time. (Auto body shops have their own slow-time, a week means a month...) I went by the L150a's in my storage space for about 3 weeks before I couldn't smell the fresh paint, so plan on a month before bringing them indoors. Your nose may vary of course, me, I still have not put the driver's in those boxes, and it's been 6 weeks already. When I do put driver's on fresh paint I try to always put some sort of lube on the sealing surface so that it will not stick tight. A thin coat of Vaseline on the gasket and the back of the woofer sealing surface now can save you hours of grief later. I use foam tape if it's a new box, but for the vintage o-ring seals a little lube is always a good idea, just be careful not to get it on the visible paint.
Mike Scott in SJ, CA
Drive 'em to the Xmax!
Chalk board paint works really well too. Nice and really durable. Ive used it on some of my cabinets. Its kind of odd as it looks like a blue-ish gray when wet. Turns black as it dries. Im using it in the horn mouth of my diy 4520's. It makes it look like a flat baffle instead of the mouth. Good camoflage.
And as I said, made for kids so its tough.
Nick
Damn , really didn't think of that, have a section of fence painted in chalk board paint so when the grand kids come over they can draw outside on the fence. Also we paint designs on it when we have a football or holiday party. One of the kids up the block is an art major and for 50.00 he'll draw up some amazing art scenes for one of our pool parties. It usually stays up for a week or longer cause it never hardly rains anymore in central texas. Ive got my 99 firebird in the garage so the l300's got pushed back till WED.
Hope everyone's doing well.
I'm right there with ya. I usually only do this stuff on the weekends. But I was chomping at the bit to get this cabinet painted. Put the first coat of hammer tone on it. I have to admit I don't like rolling it on. Its goes on thick but doesn't cover well. The darn roller I was using was leaving little bits of fabric on the surface. But now that its down I guess I'm stuck. I'm hoping I only need 2 coats. The mdf is soaking it up like crazy though.
I should have just painted the whole thing with the chalk board paint instead of getting fancy. Serves me right, lol. I sent an email to that guy at Austin speaker works today. Haven't gotten a reply yet. Maybe I'll give them a call.
Austin Speaker Work can not recharge alnico magnets.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote