JBL L65A Restoration

[tnsilver]

In this thread I'll review my JBL L65A restoration project. To begin with, the 2nd hand speakers I purchased, had all the drivers and elements, and as it turned out, the cross over network, in great condition. The only problems were some dings, scratches and messed up cabinet corners. My L65A did not have the bottom supports when I got them. The previous owner said they were long lost. Other than that, they were in a relative good condition and sounded great. Here is what the speakers looked like before I started:

Scratches & dings on baffle...	Broken top corners...	Missing supports caused breakage...
Messed up corners	No bottom supports
General condition is fair	Drivers are good

Continued next post....

[tnsilver]

Part 1

So I begin by introducing the tools and materials I work with:

Tools and materials...



The materials in the middle picture are water based wood filler (some Spanish maker), German glaze (Zviehorn HolzLazur) that is excellent!!! and some tools. Other tools I use are a hair drier and a leaf gauge from my auto-repair tool box to remove those L65A foilcals:

Hair dryer and leaf gauge



And this time, for the purpose of sealing the edges of the high density particle boards, I found this silicon based paste that's gray in color but dries smooth and black. This stuff is real easy to smooth out with a finger dipped in soapy water. It's made by a Spanish manufacturer named 'Quilrosa' and it saves me the time it takes to sand wood filler, which, I typucaly use for this purpose:

Silicon based filler paste



This stuff is cool! Very easy to smooth out and... it becomes a perfect moisture sealer when it dries like this:



Continued next post...

[tnsilver]

Part 2: Preparation for glazing ('Lazur')

Before anything, I had to rebuild the corners. I use water based wood filler for this. Wood filler dries and has the same density as wood - but it does not absorb glaze, paint and finish as well as natural wood does. So, in this case, I mixed it with a little Teak toned glaze. I build the corner by applying a chunk of filler on the corner and straighten it up using two putty knifes:

It starts like this



Then, it dries up and requires sanding. Lot's of it. I do it manually using sanding paper wrapped around some hard flat wood. Occasionally, the fresh dried filler would break:

This happens:



So the corners are built up gradually, by repeating the process, letting the filler dry, then, sanding it into a perfect square shape, over and over:

Rebuilding the corners is sometimes a lengthy process



Then, I removed the foilcals using a hair dryer and a leaf gauge. You can use a real thin flexible putty knife instead, except I didn't have one that thin:

Removing the foilcals



Before any thing else I used my 'magic' Spanish silicon paste to seal all the edges of the high density particle boards that are typically exposed to oxidation and moisture. I already discussed this material (which I have just recently discovered) and I put it to good use:

Sealing the edges (the material is gray but dries up to be black)



Sealing the driver's mounting holes in the same way



Then comes sanding. I usually do this manually with sanding paper wrapped on a hard block of wood. This time I was in a hurry. I used an old Black & Decker electric buffer. It was a mistake. Buffers are too violent for the delicate veneer and I broke off some of the corners I worked so hard to build. I had to rebuild them. After that, I learned my lesson and went back to sanding paper and elbow grease:

Sanding the L65A cabinets clear of old lacquer and tung oil



Continued next post...

[tnsilver]

Part 3: Glazing

I got a hunch telling me 'glazing' is not too popular in the states. My colleague American handy men prefer Tung oil. I'm not sure how common this 'Lazur' thing is in the USA, so in favor of my American fellow DIY'ers, I'm gonna say a few words. Glazing is the process of applying layers of 'glaze' (a.k.a Lazur) on a wooden artifact, that would then, build up gradually, and breaks up light hitting it into a beautiful collage of layers. The material is very similar to Tung oil, except, it dries up to a glassy and ragged surface - that must be sanded lightly before the next layer. 'Lazur' comes up in many tones and it's possible to mix them, or even apply different toned layers. The material takes about 8 hours to dry and before that it requires careful wiping of all drips, especially in corners. Just like painting, the process requires a rather 'sterile' environment, as any hair, dust and fluff would ruin a good layer.

The material is thinned like paint, with Turpentine, but can be applied with a dampened rag (or a clean brush). Brushing is done using long strokes with the grain, with the exception of a single round that goes against the grain - just to make sure the material is applied evenly. All other strokes are with the grain. How many layers - is up to you. All my JBL restoration projects included 3 layers. The first is dark brown, the other two layers are Teak toned. My grandmother's German piano I refurbished two years ago, in contrast, required an amazing 25 layers of glaze and another 25 layers of Lacquer. Glazing a pair of speaker cabinets, as highly dignified as the Jubals, with all due respect, is a walk in the park in respect. So - here is the process of glazing my L65A's - from left to right:

Glazing 1st Layer: Notice the filler in the built corners is not absorbing the glaze. It'll have to be redone a couple of extra times



Glazing 2nd and 3rd layer from left to right



Part 4: Lacquer finish

After the cabinets are glazed - it's very important to apply some Lacquer. The glaze is glassy and breakable. The lacquer will add a layer of protection and it will also provide some (although limited) strength to the newly built and restored corners of the cabinets. Those will remain forever vulnerable and susceptible to breakage - but the supports will keep them off the floor and out of harm's way.

So I applied 3 layers of Lacquer. I used a technique borrowed from the process known as 'French Polish' that is applied to antique musical instruments and furniture - only I did not use the classic Shellac flakes, but rather traditional acrylic Lacquer (although a high quality German brand). I wore an old sock on my hand and inserted a sponge between my skin and the fabric. The sponge functions as a reservoir of Turpentine thinner and when I apply a little pressure on it, it exerts a little thinner. This is important because the process is quick. I spill a little Lacquer on the cabinet - and then I got about 40 seconds to polish it evenly, in long strokes, across an entire side. After about 40 seconds the lacquer becomes too sticky and gummy to smear evenly. So using the sponge reservoir together with long movements and doing it right in very limited time - is quit a skill a developed over years of practice. It ain't easy!!!

Here are the results. From left to right - three layers of lacquer applied in the way I described. My friend Johnny Black here, helps me demonstrate the change in the reflection that is visible after every layer. Note the reflection photo was taken when the lacquer was fresh. It dims out when it dries - and so it should because the L65A is not suppose to have a glossy shiny finish to it:

3 Layers of Lacquer - left to right



This is so spectacular and fun - I'll indulge in it some more...

Reflections in the final lacquer layer



Continued next post...

[tnsilver]

Part 5: Cross-over Network maintenance

OK, I usually rebuild the XO network, or at least replace the capacitors and resistors with all my vintage speakers. Only this time, the Jubals sounded so good, I had a feeling I should not touch anything nor try to improve it. It also looked in good condtion:

The N65A Network from my L65A's



The only exception was the N65A network's LPADS which I opened and cleaned up to be good for another 30 years. There is no 'Deoxit' in Tel-Aviv. If you want to export it to Israel, you could probably make some money. In the mean time, I used my custom home made cleaning fluid composed of anti-rust oil spray (WD-40) and some pure crude Methanol to wash it off:

Cleaning the N65A LPADS - left to right



Part 6: Spray paint flat black everything else

Ok, not too much explaining to do here. Just mask any piece of veneer with news papers and masking tape and take the cabs outside for spraying (unless you like the stench of epoxy in your house for the next 10 hours). Epoxy spray paint smell like hell but it's easy to work with and dries up in about ten minutes. It's actually pretty cool and for some reason manages to give the baffle boards that JBL classic looks:

Masking and spraying



Don't forget the back



Continued next post...

[tnsilver]

Part 7: Restoring the missing supports

When I started this project I had nothing but the marks left by the old supports on the bottom of the speakers to tell me about the required size. I actually measured this:

Old supports traces



So after a little measuring and a little height calculation (The L65A has a total of 622 mm in height) I could manufacture these out of solid oak:

New Oak Supports



Then, off course, I took my best shot to glaze and lacquer coat them to match the rest of the cabinets:

Matching the new support finish with the rest of the cabinets - an absolute waste of time and effort



And then, according to Murphy's law, I found a reference to the original supports on an L65 and found out it was just plain flat black! I had to spray paint black all my work. What a shame:

Spray paint black the new supports



Part 8: The glass top and finishes

If there is one thing I don't get it's how in God's name the human race knows the exact components and structure of rocks on Mars on one hand - but is completely ignorant about anything that has to do with the velvety black stuff JBL used as bedding for the Jubal's glass tops. Beats me. Any way, I was taking a trip down to an artists craft shop and found me those 2mm thick, black foamed Polyethylene sheets. If I stack two layers of this material - I get the exact 4mm I need to lay the glass top on - and embed the JBL metal badge in. Don't ask me what artists do with the plastic sheets - I don't know - but I glued two layers together and did this:

2 layers of foamed Polyethylene carved around the glass tops and glued together - leaving a space for the JBL badge



So the idea is this...



BTW: I won those JBL badges on an eBay bid for $23. There was just one more bidder against me and he gave up quick. If it's one of you guys lt me just tell you that it was a smart move. It was the only thing I had missing and was willing to fight for it. It's a good thing you gave up because my limit was $100. That's crazy high for a pair of aluminum JBL badges - but those are originals and they probably came off a pair of butchered Jubals. Notice how Jubals are always worth more in parts than as a whole

So that's it. The next part is the most important

[tnsilver]

Part 9: Show Off!!!

I just forgot to mention that I had the original navy colored grills stained black using wood stain. I didn't like the original color but I didn't want to replace the original JBL polyester fabric, so I just stained it. Here is the complete result:

So - that's it for this project. I actually bought two original JBL price tags from eBay, for those L65A for $10 a piece, from this Rudy seller guy from Nebraska. He said he mailed those two weeks ago - but I still haven't got those... if you got any questions don't hesitate to ask...

So before I say good bye... One last shot:



Cheers

Tom

[grumpy]

Very nice finished look, and storyline. Thanks for posting it!

[dr_gallup]

OMG stained the blue JBL fabric black!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just kidding. Looks great.

[Robh3606]

Very Nice!

Rob

[Mike F]

Nicely done. Now hook them up, pour yourself a glass of that Johnny Walker Black you proudly display in a couple of pictures, put on some tunes and tell us how they sound!

[tesla]

I am flabbergasted. I need to get off my butt to work on my pair, they could use some work to look nice like yours.

I will refer to this thread to help.

Now, how do they sound?

[tnsilver]

Thank you, thank you people, I'm glad you liked the show, thank you.

...Now hook them up, pour yourself a glass of that Johnny Walker Black you proudly display in a couple of pictures, put on some tunes and tell us how they sound!

Oh, I did that a long time ago. That bottle of Johnny Black is long gone. It was just posing as a lacquer model and once it finished it's job, it was 'consumed'. Even that bottle of Woodford Reserve, from that last picture had been put to good use. Don't you worry about that.

...Now, how do they sound?

Fair enough. Let me just make a note about me finding vintage audible experiences described in words - typically ridiculous. It always looks pompous and the word 'warm' always seems to pop along the lines - so I'd do my best here to avoid both. "how do they sound?" Freaking amazing!!! Those are Jubals guys. They are a category of their own in vintage speakers and they have an entire class of 'freaking amazing' standing at their own disposal. The only vintage speakers that would make you fall off your chair harder than those L65's are the legendary L300's (and maybe the L200's too).

To begin with, even before the refurbishing project - they were in perfect operational state. The cross-over, like I mentioned earlier in this thread, was in 'A' shape and all the drivers and elements were in tip top condition. In fact, it took me three days to unhook those babies and start working on them because I just couldn't let them go.

What I find amazing in this line of JBL products is not the unbelievable 077 tweeters or the 12" woofer - but rather the famous LE-5 line of midrange drivers. Those do an amazing job. They are relatively modest and inexpensive but they do an excellent job at keeping your sound 'present' and they just don't miss anything. They got a wide range of frequencies - and for such a pair of low level mid-range speaker - I think they deserve hats off. My other pair of 4311 monitors use another version of the LE-5's and the same thing can be said about them too.

Then, there is the 12" 122a woofer. It's a work horse. Unfortunately, in my opinion, L100 style cabinets are just too small for that woofer size so the result is a rather 'boomy' and inaccurate bass. The Jubals, with their irregular stocky proportions, got it right!!! The basses coming out of those pair are both accurate - but at the same time 'moving'. When I say 'moving' I mean the entire freaking building. You can sit on your favorite couch, lean back, and feel it kicking you in the back. Sensational!!!

Finally, there is this 077 legendary tweeter. I don't know what JBL did with this one or where they got the technology or looks. Guys, could this thing had been 'borrowed' from the unit captured at Roswell in '48? It is really a unique piece of technology. It has a tendency to shoot out frequencies as accurate as a laser beam on one hand, but on the other hand, it seems that no matter where you are in relations to the speakers, it's always sharp and bright. My Tel-Aviv office is just a plain open loft with the bath room being an exception to the openness principle. It's a separate room surrounded by 3/4 height walls about 40 feet away from the Jubals. For some freakish reason - I'm getting one of the best sound configuration when I'm taking a shower in it - whilst those sound waves have to travel a maze of walls and beams to get there. Weird!!! Nevertheless, when I station my self at ear level with the L65A's, about 10' to 15' away, it is one of the best speakers pair I'd ever experienced.

Yet, the L65A's requires careful adjustment of the 'brilliance' and 'presence' L-Pads. JBL had bothered to include a dedicated chapter in the owner's manual about this process - and for a good reason too. It is very easy to miss-adjust this wonderful pair and turn them into a squeaking and shrilling annoyingly bright little buggers. Take your time with this tweaking - it's worth the effort. In summary, the L65A's (at least my pair) will knock you off your feet. It has a dazzling 'Wow' factor and in addition to it's amazing output - it also looks very cool! (I bet those black glass tops had to do something with controlled substance abuse in 70's. However, I like to tell my guests that those are solar panels making the speakers run on solar power for free. Some people find it totally believable.)

[4313B]

Very impressive!

[Greg86z28]

Do you have any pictures of the finished corners where you were using the putty? I'm curious how well the finish took in those spots, difficult to notice?