Purchasing 4333A - question.

[Audiobeer]

That's a great looking pair, very nice shape. You will love them when you get an amp with some ability to drive and handle the demand some music recordings call for. Try to find an old crown or old JBL DJ amp just for grins (very affordable) so you can see what I mean. Some people have gifted earss but I can't hear the difference between to power amps with the same specs as long as one dosen't present more distortion than the next. Enjoy!!

[johnaec]

That looks in great shape, especially for a utility cabinet. I do agree with the others, though - you need quite a bit more power to effectively drive those 15's and keep them under control.

John

[Mr. Widget]

Originally posted by kevf

Mmm..the bi-amping sounds interesting. I did a search on the forum and came up empty. Is there any info on how this can be done? Thanks a bunch...

If that is a 4333A there should be two inputs on the back and a switch that allows for bi-amplification. To do this you need an outboard electronic crossover ( I would suggest you try an Ashly XR1001) and two amps. Your small tube Mac will be perfect for the top end and any solid state unit with 100wpc or better and a stout power supply should have excellent control of that woofer.

Now I started this with if because that cabinet style predates the 4333A as far as I know. Perhaps it is the very beginning of the "A" series before the cabinet changed. If it is a 4333 then you will need to perform a bit of surgery to facilitate bi-amping.

Widget

[kevf]

I think I have the 4333. There is no switch at the back. I have some soldering skills (have built some kit amps and speakers), but I'm not sure I want to mess with the cross-overs right now.

Too bad, bi-amping sounds like an excellent way to take advantage of the high efficiency upper drivers. Maybe a future project...

Kevin

[Robh3606]

Thanks for the pictures those look great! Biamping is a good thing you should give it a try at least down the road once you get settled in. There are schematics available if you decide to try it, Basically you loose the low pass to the woofer and the high pass to the compression driver which is replaced with the active crossover. JBL also puts blocking caps is series to protect the compression driver. Some people don't like them but it's safer than risking a blown diaphram just in case. There are plenty of decent amps with enough moxy to keep that woofer under control. Just give a vintage Crown a whirl and you see just how tight reflex bass can be.

Rob

[Audiobeer]

I don't think the 4333a had a switch on the back. Yours should be ready to biamp as is. Do you have a pic of the speaker terminals for us?

Originally posted by kevf
I think I have the 4333. There is no switch at the back. I have some soldering skills (have built some kit amps and speakers), but I'm not sure I want to mess with the cross-overs right now.

Too bad, bi-amping sounds like an excellent way to take advantage of the high efficiency upper drivers. Maybe a future project...

Kevin

[speakerdave]

Originally posted by Audiobeer
I don't think the 4333a had a switch on the back. Yours should be ready to biamp as is. Do you have a pic of the speaker terminals for us?

My walnut 4333A with the tweeter beside the midrange when the speaker is vertical has two sets of input terminals and a switch for biamping.

David

[kevf]

I definitely have the 4333. There is only one set of terminal input at the back (and no switch). And the cab says "4333 Studio Montor" in the front and on the l-pads.

I'm sorry about the confusion guys. Being the noobie I am, I initially thought 4333A is the same as 4333 and hence started the thread with 4333A. The seller did tell me they are 4333.

So in essence, to bi-amp by speakers, I have to disconnect the stock crossover and replace it with an external active crossover. I'd love to try it, but I'll most definitely enjoy them as is for a while first

Kevin

[4313B]

Fun loudspeakers!

"I have to disconnect the stock crossover and replace it with an external active crossover."

Not a problem since you will want to build new crossovers if you're going to go to the trouble of biamping anyway.

Get an Ashly XR1001 like Mr. Widget and Bo use and charge-couple the dedicated biamp passive networks.

[Chas]

kevF I am in the Toronto area, send me a PM if you need some help getting the best out of these great speakers.