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Thread: acquired a pair of JBL Olympus with S8R kit

  1. #1
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    acquired a pair of JBL Olympus with S8R kit

    Today I acquired a pair of JBL Olympus with the S8R kit in them. LE15, PR15, 375, 075, LX5, N7000 I believe it is. I was "allowed" to buy them out of an inheritance of a music lover that passed away some years ago.

    I know this thread is worthless without pics, but before connecting them, I'd like to know if I should pay special attention to the surrounds of the LE15. They seemed ok when I gave them a quick look (we took the rear of and had a peek inside to verify the presence of all the kit parts), but haven't yet examined them in detail.

    The thing is that the cabinets look exactly like factory cabinets, but they have some things that I haven't seen online:
    - drivers mounted from the rear side of the baffle
    - rear of the cabinet comes of
    - the rear is not black, but wood
    - I haven't been able to take of the grilles yet

    Ok, there is a lot of info here I just checked out:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...BL-Olympus-S8R

    Maybe these cabinets were made by a cabinet maker, based on JBL plans?

    I'll post pictures later, but I'd like to hear if I should pay special attention when firing them up.

  2. #2
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Ok, I took of the rear and examined all the components. The LE15 feel like they won't move. I have read somewhere that you need to soften the surrounds with oil or something? I won't put a signal on them before they will move...






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    I have read somewhere that you need to soften the surrounds with oil or something? I won't put a signal on them before they will move...


    Treating the surrounds with DOT3 ( Ford type ) Brake Fluid will soften them up and restore the compliance ( ie; temporarily for @ 1 yr ) /// until you get someone to install some new foam surrounds .

    Brush the fluid on in a couple of light applications ( with the woofers out of box & facing cone up ).

    Use a
    small narrow artists brush and go sparingly with the amount of fluid held in by the brush //// any excess fluid that drips & touches the paper cone will stain & discolor it.



  4. #4
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    When I used the DOT 3 fluid to soften my LE15As, I applied a very small amount on both the front and back. I measured the Fs and applied it again, and again until I hit the correct measurement.

    Congratulations by the way!


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  5. #5
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    I have had quite some JBL components, but never a complete set like this. The crossovers need some work though, I think the springs on the inputs of the LX5 have gone. I'll probably see if I can give the LE15 surrounds a DOT3 treatment and then see if I can get the speakers to work in my active 3-way setup that normally uses the 2235/2123/2420+2344.

  6. #6
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank23 View Post
    Thanks!

    I have had quite some JBL components, but never a complete set like this. The crossovers need some work though, I think the springs on the inputs of the LX5 have gone. I'll probably see if I can give the LE15 surrounds a DOT3 treatment and then see if I can get the speakers to work in my active 3-way setup that normally uses the 2235/2123/2420+2344.
    The LX5 and N7000 are pretty weak links in that system anyway. I would go active or work up your own networks.

    I would also try the cabinets both as is and with custom woofer plugs... ie. I would make some 15" discs with a proper ports in them and install the discs where the passive radiators go. I prefer the ported sound over the passive radiator sound, you may also. The beauty is that it is an entirely reversible experiment and it offers two distinctly different types of bass.


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    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    I'll check configurations over the coming months. Since the Olympus cabinet is bigger than the 4507 I can also try my E145's in this cabinet and see how they perform.

    Does anyone know if the capacitors in the crossovers are electrolites and need to be renewed, or are they paper/wax kind of types and will they last?

    If I had to choose between applying DOT3 or re-foaming with the Cobb kit, what would you do? I have heard that the cone can be ruinedby the DOT3 and can make re-edging a challenge as the DOT3 might prevent the glue from sticking to the cone if you want to refoam eventually. Does refoaming affect the value of the set?

  8. #8
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    For me the LE15A is a museum piece so I would rather keep it original, for most people they probably would rather have new surrounds.

    I have owned several over the years and never had a problem with the DOT3, but I have a steady hand.


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    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Ok, so I'll probably take the LE15 out and put the 2235 in. Then see how it sounds, just to get an idea. I know the cones are different, and the T/S parameters also, but the resonance frequency seems to be the same at 20Hz, so I'll see how it sounds. And in the meantime, see what I'll do to the LE15 as I like originality, but do want to put them into action.

  10. #10
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    ps., I found the PDF with the N7000 circuit on this forum, but I can't find the LX5 circuit. There is something strange with the search engine as it does not give any results for "lx5" and a combination with "circuit" "pdf" or "schematics" does not give me the result I need either. But someone has thanked Giskard for the circuits once, so the LX5 circuits must be here somewhere!

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    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Well, things don't go ok with disassembling the speakers. I have loosened all the bolts, but am unable to take the LE15 or the PR15 out. I can't figure out what makes them stick. The cabinet itself though is looking better and better. I just found out the baffle has been mounted a little sloping from bottom to top, so creating unequal lenghts within the cabinet. It has certainly been built by someone that knew what to do.

    Also I cant figure out how to remove the grille as I need to do that to take the 375+horn out as that is bolted from the front. Well, that is the least of my problems as that can also remain seated. I only managed to take out the 075, but well, that wasn't neccesary either... Only the LE15 has to come out really, but it won't budge!





    See how the wood is getting great again with the treatment:

  12. #12
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Can't help with the removal, but regarding popping in a pair of 2235Hs, You will definitely need different networks and you really should remove the PR15s, they are tuned for the LE15As.


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    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Ok, it seems that it is a common problem for rear mounted drivers. It looks like I have to get myself a really thin blade like a set of feelers to separate them and make sure the gasket and cone remain in one piece. Here are some tips, the feeler tip is most appropriate I think as the putty knifes I know of are too thick, and blowing them off with TNT or C4 won't preserve the cones :-) :

    http://www.tdpri.com/forum/amp-centr...d-what-do.html
    http://www.thegearpage.net/board/sho....php?t=1128219

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    Normally, the Olympus grille is held on with a pin like fitting in a pinch-clamp receptacle on the cabinet or baffle front - usually pulling them evenly from each side together should get them off.

    However, if this is a custom built cabinet, as it seems to be, then everything is potentially different, as the rear mounting of the drivers shows. You may need to look carefully at all the internally appearing fasteners on the baffle because some of them may hold the grille on, or even check if the whole baffle dismounts from inside. I would pull some of the side insulation to expose the complete extent of the baffle.

    The 4 fasteners on the drivers look unusual, can you give us a closer look at them? The problem may be that they have captive nuts on the front so that loose does not mean they will come out without removing the other side (front of baffle) fastener.

    Also, there seems to me some suggestion that the baffle may be made of multiple pieces somehow held together. The slight grain colors and differences gave me that thought.

    The other curious thing is the 4 dark protruding items from each corner of the baffle around the drivers. Curiously, they look like JBL grille pegs, but obviously must be something else. Any idea what they are?

    I'm sure the key to all this is getting the grille off.
    When faced with another JBL find, Good mech986 says , JBL Fan mech986 says

  15. #15
    Senior Member frank23's Avatar
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    Thanks for thinking with me here. I think I understand the fasteners and the baffle itself.

    The builder mounted square thin plates on the rear of the baffle. The LE15 is mounted again to the rear of this thin square plate. The plates are mounted to the baffle itself by t-nuts and bolts. The dark outer bolt heads are philips. The LE15 are mounted to the square plates also with t-nuts and bolts, these are the hexagonal bolts that you see on the edge of the LE15. I have no idea why this "LE15 on plate on baffle" was used.

    I loosened the plate philips bolts and the LE15 hexagonal bolts. I think the LE15 are stuck because of the gasket clamping top the plate for 35 years. I don't know why the square plates are stuck. Maybe the builder put glue in between the plates and the baffle before bolting them up.

    Removing the grille is not straightforward either. I have loosened a number of screws in the edge of the inside of the cabinet, but found no movement in the grille. I have now put the cabinet on its back with all bolts slightly loose and hope the weight of the LE15 makes it come off over night.

    Below two pics I made through the grille cloth showing the baffle, plate and LE15 and the t-nuts on the front of the baffle:




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