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  1. #31
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    Yikes, about the john mayer record?

  2. #32
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serum View Post
    Thank for the kind words! I guess i could, never considered it though, give me some time to think about it. What is it you need? I could figure out something to help you out.
    I'll send you a PM!

    Concerning the crossover and the DCX, I saw one of your old messages and responded there:
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ht=#post337444

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serum View Post
    Yikes, about the john mayer record?
    No. It is what it is. I'm not much of a John Mayer fan. I meant my mistake about the amp. I haven't seen a lot of feed back on that one but I remember it being a stellar performer. Specs seem to back that up. There's lots of good stuff out there but I'm actually a vintage fan. I love tweaking and improving that old gear,(or having it tweaked). My technical knowledge is quite limited.

  4. #34
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    no, you haven't made an error with the amps. I choose hypex for the reason i wanted to integrate them into the enclosure. There is a lot of options out there for amps, and there is no holy grail in audio. I always loved the sound of an A/B amp. I have got an FM acoustics 800A as well. The sound quality is topnotch, but according to what i've read the amp itself isn't that special from a technical perspective.

    Don't fear the variable you are unfamiliar with. Your ears tell you what you like the best. The most important factor IMO are the speakers themselves. if the rest is good, the small margins of 'better' cost a lot of money and can be between the ears.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serum View Post
    no, you haven't made an error with the amps. I choose hypex for the reason i wanted to integrate them into the enclosure. There is a lot of options out there for amps, and there is no holy grail in audio. I always loved the sound of an A/B amp. I have got an FM acoustics 800A as well. The sound quality is topnotch, but according to what i've read the amp itself isn't that special from a technical perspective.

    Don't fear the variable you are unfamiliar with. Your ears tell you what you like the best. The most important factor IMO are the speakers themselves. if the rest is good, the small margins of 'better' cost a lot of money and can be between the ears.
    Actually, I did. I mistakenly assumed your MC2 MC1200 was a Mcintosh. Pos corrected me. I agree with your position to a point. There are two main things an amp has to have or I'm not happy. The first is speed(slew rate, rise time), and secondly a high damping factor. Without them, there is no sense of reality.

  6. #36
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    The MC1250 is mine

    The MC2 has a very good damping factor (>1000), but these things tend to degrade with time and output oxydation and fatigue (relays, etc.).
    That is why they recently changed the datasheet to >400, because that is the value they generally end up at after several years of use...
    On the nc400 the damping factor is even much higher, around 13000, and furthermore it manages to maintain this value up to 16khz.
    The slew rate of these class D amps is not that great though, as they are band limited above ~30khz to reject the switching frequency.

  7. #37
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    Yes, i couldn't agree more. Some amps simple don't push out the low frequencies like it should, while others lack in slew-rate. A bridged amplifier lowers his damping. But the biggest internal resistance available is the voicecoil itself. Shortening rings in the woofer also help to act as a 'brake' for the woofer. I had a Kenwood (trio) amp with sigma drive; it measured the EMF at the speakers terminal itself. (so two sets of wires went to the speaker, one for the music, and one feedback to the amp.) I heard good things about the older SA line of amps.

  8. #38
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serum View Post
    Shortening rings in the woofer also help to act as a 'brake' for the woofer.


    Mama's little baby loves shortnin' shortnin',
    Mama's little baby loves shortnin' rings ....

    (just funnin' ya - no harm meant ... we ALL slip a letter here and there.)
    2ch: Oppo, Acurus RL-11, JBL 240ti, Heath AS101, Carver TFM-25,Von Schweikert VR4
    7: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460,

  9. #39
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    Talking

    Tiny typo and i get nailed.. Go ahead, blame the foreigner..

    for those born after 1957;
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqMf1P8BXMA

    It seems that amps with a higher voltage also push out better lows. (from my experience) this would line up with faster woofers don't necessarily have a low MMS. (induction/amps/volts/eddy currents, if i'm correct)

  10. #40
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    I guess I should ask. Is your volume control a Behringer product? If not, where should I look?

  11. #41
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    no, it's a kit, made by a Dutch guy; (there is a thorough walk-through manual on the site bellow)

    http://www.linearaudio.nl/6chan-1.htm

    It's available through Pilgham audio; http://www.pilghamaudio.com/index.ph...dcx-active-upg

    i think Ward, the owner, can also assemble the kit if needed

  12. #42
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    Excellent. Thanks. What is the passive upgrade about?

  13. #43
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    That's an upgrade to the outputs only, no volume control. From my best understanding it's a passive component; the active one is capable of pushing out 5V, this passive one removes the opamps in the circuit.

  14. #44
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    I'm not very technically knowledgeable at all. When I see "passive", I'm thinking not "active". Can you clarify?

  15. #45
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    That's exactly what it is; active uses active components, IC's to boost the level and to amplify, and the passive uses the standard DAC outputs. Active has got volume-control with IR remote control operation. What is it you need? volume control? in this case you need the active.

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