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Thread: Altec & TAD drivers

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    Wow!? Just go Mcguyver and figure something out. I'm sure you can figure out a way to make a gasket, check a local hardware store
    yeah i can probably figure a lot of stuff out, but there's nothing like finding out off someone who knows or has come across this particular problem before... thanks for the help though.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by louped garouv View Post
    Or you could also source rubber gaskets for mounting speaker grills...
    i actually did request 2 spare gaskets with the tad1601b that i got. but i was warned off doing this by someone who used to work for a spkr mfr years ago. they said that the elastic modulus of the gasket it important. and if you use 3 instead of 1 (even if it is the 'official' gasket from the mfr) then you could affect things in the LF. This does seem a little over the top. but i also want to do this right!
    the gasket on the altec drivers is so squishy compared with the TAD gasket... all these things must have an effect.

    given that i will not be overdriving the speakers is there any way to determine from their specification exactly how far the speaker will travel forward at max displacement?


    tom

  3. #33
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teddy.edwards1 View Post
    i recently got some 1603 baskets with the cones totally wrecked for £100 each on ebay, they were in the UK. I see there's 1 x 1603 on ebay and whilst it would come in at £200 from the US it does have a working (but non-original) cone. in the uk it seems there are very few of these (?) in fact you can't even buy them from pioneer

    regrding the aluminium, i think that would be the best thing because it is rigid and will not change any of the resonnance of the speaker. i was worried that just using rubber gasket would create a springy effect and change the qualities of the speaker.

    i can get a friend to laser cut (so lazy!) some 6mm plywood rings to use as a slightly cheaper alternative maybe? could also put a bit of 1mm neoprene to make them airtight where they meet the baffle. don't want to fix them permanently. there won't be much difference between using ply and using aluminium though will there?

    by the way, when you say you want a 1603 basket - are you going to recone it yourself or do you know someone who is competent, if so, where's the recone kit from? just interested if you can get em in the uk - every tech i speak to has not heard (of) them!
    i still need to get 2 x 1603 reconed. i know someone who used to work for gauss that could maybe do it... but if you know of anyone... wouldn't mind trying myself but this is a bit of an expensive start point.

    oh also: 1603 orig. diaphragms:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAD-DP-160...item2c635910a9

    thanks
    tom
    Yeah I saw that one ,but will wait for a basket . I have one sitting at Guido's waiting. I'l get Guido to recone them too ... He can get the kits . I looked at the Kits in the US ,but by the time I have landed them at G's front door they work out more expensive . I don't bother using anyone else for recones . I have used him since I started this insane hobby and see no reason to change - he's a perfectionist !
    The plywood/ Laser treatment sounds good . I would use very good quality marine or birch ply though .
    Where on this little island are you ?

    Rich

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
    Yeah I saw that one ,but will wait for a basket . I have one sitting at Guido's waiting. I'l get Guido to recone them too ... He can get the kits . I looked at the Kits in the US ,but by the time I have landed them at G's front door they work out more expensive . I don't bother using anyone else for recones . I have used him since I started this insane hobby and see no reason to change - he's a perfectionist !
    The plywood/ Laser treatment sounds good . I would use very good quality marine or birch ply though .
    Where on this little island are you ?

    Rich
    I'm up in Leeds... where abouts in London are you?
    Yeah I use birch ply in all my speaker builds, not marine though - that's crazy expensive now...
    It might be nice to have a contact for this re-coner you use - the guy up here I go to is often away fixing tape machines and desks around the world, and even when he is here it's real hard to pin him down sometime. I come to London to see tech guys for some of my gear so it might be a possibility when i recone get round to using my 1603s. I have four 1601's ready to go and i kinda like the 421's for now in my monitors so it's not pressing.
    What cabs will you be using the 1603's in? will they be mounted in front of the baffle?!
    I think you advised me to go 4-way (not including sub) in my setup in a previous post. Unfortunately this is not an option as there is limited space and we need room for dancing!

    Do you have any opinions on how thick this new gasket/ring should be - i'm looking at 7mm at the moment.

    Tom

  5. #35
    Senior Member richluvsound's Avatar
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    I know Leeds very well . I lived in Kirkstall ,by the Abby -spent 8 years up there playing semi-pro cricket ,doing a degree and working .
    Now I live in Dulwich SE London .

    My cabinet ..... ? no idea yet . Something bespoke anyway . I will be using the Radian / Truextent combo and the 1603 . Its a long term project.
    Guido will design the networks for it . I'll stick to a 2-way . Unless I want to spend serious amounts of dosh I don't think I can improve on the basic 2-way . Besides, I have done the big 4-way thing ,but alas,I don't have the room any more .

    Back on topic !

    I guess your stuck with the original aperture ,which is 15" ? now you need to clear the surround for rear mounting as the TAD is 16" ? I would stick to the ply idea . I can't see any problem as long as you keep to the 7 mm minimum ! If the cone travels more than that ..... you have just blown the Woof .. LOL
    Pics really help to visualise mate !

    Guido is on here ,contact him via PM or http://www.behringer-electric.de/

    We'll have a drink the next time your down my way !

    Rich

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by richluvsound View Post
    I know Leeds very well . I lived in Kirkstall ,by the Abby -spent 8 years up there playing semi-pro cricket ,doing a degree and working .
    Now I live in Dulwich SE London .

    My cabinet ..... ? no idea yet . Something bespoke anyway . I will be using the Radian / Truextent combo and the 1603 . Its a long term project.
    Guido will design the networks for it . I'll stick to a 2-way . Unless I want to spend serious amounts of dosh I don't think I can improve on the basic 2-way . Besides, I have done the big 4-way thing ,but alas,I don't have the room any more .

    Back on topic !

    I guess your stuck with the original aperture ,which is 15" ? now you need to clear the surround for rear mounting as the TAD is 16" ? I would stick to the ply idea . I can't see any problem as long as you keep to the 7 mm minimum ! If the cone travels more than that ..... you have just blown the Woof .. LOL
    Pics really help to visualise mate !

    Guido is on here ,contact him via PM or http://www.behringer-electric.de/

    We'll have a drink the next time your down my way !

    Rich
    Ha, yeah I live near where you lived...

    Look at the A7 - the speaker is hidden partially behind the baffle.
    The Xmax of the TADs is 8mm
    The Xmax for the Altec is 0.12 inches or 3mm

    So i feel I may be 1mm short - and i really REALLY don't want to damage these TAD drivers as they cost an arm and a leg.
    So i could use 6mm ply with 1mm neoprene on each side = 8mm
    or use 9mm ply with 1mm neoprene on the side meeting the baffle = 10mm

    so boring, but so important.

    tom

  7. #37
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    now i look closer at the TAD spec i see something else:


    • Max. Excursion Before Damage (P-P) 36,0 mm

      Which would mean the driver moves forward 18mm.
      that is a lot.

      on the altec 515-8ghp the same figure is 0.85 inches or 22mm
      meaning 11mm fwd driver movement

      Then i look again at the difference in gasket (the altec it 7mm more!)
      it makes me think i should use 12mm ply! no more laser cutter.

      tom

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