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Thread: JBL Performance Series

  1. #2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by jener8tionx View Post
    Well, I've had no luck fixing my PS1400. I think I might sell that one for parts. Also, I can't afford to replace it, so I might just have to sell my working PS1400 book shelves and center chanel. Oh well.
    I'm completely baffled as to why anyone allows those built-in amps to dictate how they live their lives. Dump the effing things in the trash and move on. Seriously.

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-500

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-502

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-504

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    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-506

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-407

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    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=245-411

  2. #2012
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    Just Joining, worked at Harman, have Performance Series, and a ? about screen baffles

    Glad to see this thread here about the Performance Series. I used to work at Harman (Balboa in Northridge) and have a bunch of the Performance Series speakers.

    Specifically:
    •PT800 - Total of 9
    •PS1400 - Total of 2 (and yeah, the amps are pulled out - smoked, and using QSC MX1500A to drive the subs now)
    •PC600 (unused, see comment below)

    I used to use the PC600, but discussions with the designer (Greg Timbers) changed that. His preference was either PT800s all the way around or PC600s all the way around, but not mixed.
    Another note, the auto-power off feature in the PS1400 amps was something he didn't like, but was marketing driven for reduced standby power consumption.

    All of this is off my main topic, however. I am in a new house with a dedicated theater room which I am just starting to work on. It's not a big room (13' x 17') and doesn't have enough wall height for me to have my 133'" screen with the PT800s as Left, Center, and Right at the same height (stacked on PS1400s, C on custom stand). So, I am going to take the plunge into an acoustically transparent screen (microperf, probably, same size 133") and will put the three PT800s behind the screen.

    Having spent a fair amount of time installing professional theaters and small screening rooms, the behind screen baffle is a very standard construction. Given that, I assumed that this was pretty normal for home theater as well. Nevertheless, some digging at AVSForum left me wondering a bit about all this. It seems like a fair amount of FUD, but I figured I'd check over here to see if anyone had experience with screen baffles and the PT800s.

    Punchline, has anyone tried this with their PT800s, and did you baffle to the edge of the face (narrower part) or to the sides (widest part)? How far from the back of the screen did you the hard face of the PT800s? Did you leave the grills on or off?

    I'd be happy to share what I can about Harman, but I left 5 years ago, and was only there a few years (my startup was Harman acquired), so my info will be pretty stale. Plus, I was focused on consumer automotive. If you have a Drive & Play 2, I can tell you every detail.

    Thanks!

  3. #2013
    Senior Member jblsound's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SileasResearch View Post
    Glad to see this thread here about the Performance Series. I used to work at Harman (Balboa in Northridge) and have a bunch of the Performance Series speakers.

    Specifically:
    •PT800 - Total of 9
    •PS1400 - Total of 2 (and yeah, the amps are pulled out - smoked, and using QSC MX1500A to drive the subs now)
    •PC600 (unused, see comment below)

    I used to use the PC600, but discussions with the designer (Greg Timbers) changed that. His preference was either PT800s all the way around or PC600s all the way around, but not mixed.
    Another note, the auto-power off feature in the PS1400 amps was something he didn't like, but was marketing driven for reduced standby power consumption.

    All of this is off my main topic, however. I am in a new house with a dedicated theater room which I am just starting to work on. It's not a big room (13' x 17') and doesn't have enough wall height for me to have my 133'" screen with the PT800s as Left, Center, and Right at the same height (stacked on PS1400s, C on custom stand). So, I am going to take the plunge into an acoustically transparent screen (microperf, probably, same size 133") and will put the three PT800s behind the screen.

    Having spent a fair amount of time installing professional theaters and small screening rooms, the behind screen baffle is a very standard construction. Given that, I assumed that this was pretty normal for home theater as well. Nevertheless, some digging at AVSForum left me wondering a bit about all this. It seems like a fair amount of FUD, but I figured I'd check over here to see if anyone had experience with screen baffles and the PT800s.

    Punchline, has anyone tried this with their PT800s, and did you baffle to the edge of the face (narrower part) or to the sides (widest part)? How far from the back of the screen did you the hard face of the PT800s? Did you leave the grills on or off?

    I'd be happy to share what I can about Harman, but I left 5 years ago, and was only there a few years (my startup was Harman acquired), so my info will be pretty stale. Plus, I was focused on consumer automotive. If you have a Drive & Play 2, I can tell you every detail.

    Thanks!

    Yeah, Greg has been known to prefer identical speakers all around, especially for music. I was using 5 PT800s (never had a PC600).
    But in my current setup I am only using 3 PT800s for center/surrounds and using my custom212s for the mains.
    So I still have 5 vertical 3-ways, which are close to identical. I prefer the soundstage of the 212s in stereo playback to the PT800s.

    As for having the PT800s behind the screen, as long as the speaker grilles are removed, so there is only the screen, should get close to the same results. The S4VC are flush mounted and 14" wide, with the baffle squared off. So I would think if you plan setting the PT800s into the wall, then place them flush to the 10" wide baffle. But you could just wall mount the PT800s and add foam around them and then the screen in front.
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  4. #2014
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    PS1400 amps

    I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

    1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
    2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

    Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

    Thanks, Scott

  5. #2015
    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydroscott View Post
    I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

    1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
    2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

    Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

    Thanks, Scott
    If the board itself is bad, you're out of luck.
    There's no way to duplicate the native function of the PS1400, which is separate control of LF and LFE inputs and levels. Best option seems to me to treat the 1400 box as a passive sub, so you would just remove the amp and plate the hole. Or, go with a plate amp and retrofit that to the box. Which ever route you take, just feed the thing the same as any other sub and keep the PT800 on a 80Hz XO. With most AVRs that would mean taking the sub output to your amp, with the AVR set for 80Hz crossover. It's not ideal, but none of the options are.

    You can do what some of us have done, which is to stockpile parts and even complete PS1400 for spares. But that doesn't help you in the short term. They do show up from time to time though. If you're lucky enough to find one with a second generation amp, there's a fair chance it will be trouble-free.

  6. #2016
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    If you read through my posts below I had one go bad. I parted out the rest of my PS1400s, but I still have a working amp. if you are interested, hit me up via PM and I'm sure we can work something out.

    Quote Originally Posted by hydroscott View Post
    I'm a newbie here, I've got a set of PS1400/PT800 stacks. I'm running these using an AVR 745 receiver. Yes, you guessed it, one of the PS1400 amps went bad. I took it in for repair, and the amp board (336609-1) is no longer available. I dont know a thing about electronics/amp setups so my questions are:

    1) Does anywhere know where I can get the PS1400 amp repaired. From reading this post, I understand it is probably a temporary fix, but given my ignorance on this subject it may be the best way for me to go.... OR
    2) Is there a set of very basic instructions on how to repower the PS1400s with external amps. I'm talking fisher-price instructions... what amps, crossovers, where to connect the wires, amp settings, etc...

    Hopefully someone out there is feeling charitable and can give me some advice.

    Thanks, Scott

  7. #2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
    If the board itself is bad, you're out of luck.
    There's no way to duplicate the native function of the PS1400, which is separate control of LF and LFE inputs and levels. Best option seems to me to treat the 1400 box as a passive sub, so you would just remove the amp and plate the hole. Or, go with a plate amp and retrofit that to the box. Which ever route you take, just feed the thing the same as any other sub and keep the PT800 on a 80Hz XO. With most AVRs that would mean taking the sub output to your amp, with the AVR set for 80Hz crossover. It's not ideal, but none of the options are.

    You can do what some of us have done, which is to stockpile parts and even complete PS1400 for spares. But that doesn't help you in the short term. They do show up from time to time though. If you're lucky enough to find one with a second generation amp , there's a fair chance it will be trouble-free.
    Is there a way to know if you have a "second generation amp" such as by serial number?

  8. #2018
    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpatt View Post
    Is there a way to know if you have a "second generation amp" such as by serial number?
    The rev # is stamped on the amp circuit board.
    I've also noted that early amps have screws holding the plastic box on the amp, where later amps have none. Can't say if that's a relevant indicator.

  9. #2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
    The rev # is stamped on the amp circuit board.
    I've also noted that early amps have screws holding the plastic box on the amp, where later amps have none. Can't say if that's a relevant indicator.
    Thanks for the information RD.

  10. #2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slare View Post
    For this evening's magic trick - I am going to make every single PS1400/PT800 stack owner look at the binding posts of their speakers.

    How, you ask?

    Well, I picked up a new AVR today and was running Audyssey to see how it worked with the new P series setup. It pointed to a phase error on the right speaker, which I found quite odd. After checking just about everything else, I noticed that the binding posts on my right PS1400 were backwards.

    I removed to amp to get access, color coding of the wiring matched the binding posts, but the mounting plate itself was rotated 180 degrees. I had never even checked this as the decking arrangement essentially error proofs this. But sure enough, it was backwards, meaning the decked PT800 was in fact out of phase. Text is supposed to be to the back of the PS1400... pick below shows the backwards original installation.

    This is the 2nd time I've found such an issue, first time was on a brand new Boston Acoustics VRC center channel that came wired backwards from the factory.

    Hi All, long time no post. So.....I went back to this thread to find some other pieces of information and came across this post, which the first time I read it, was not yet a PS owner, as I have been now for 2.5yrs. Well, as embarrassing as it is, my right front PS1400 has the plate backward, so I ran some phase testing and sure enough, FL/FR were out of phase!!

    All this time, I've been nagged by the superior sonic character but inferior imaging of the PS stack compared to the L7s they replaced. Alls well that ends well I suppose, but extremely frustrating nonetheless.... hope the forum is well.....and thanks Slare wherever you are for bringing this nugget to light.
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  11. #2021
    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    This is looking like a hopeless search.

    I need a tweeter. 335663-001 or 335663-002 or even 361194-001. I do have a pair of S26II but alas the tweeter will not work.

    Also need a handful of the little 6 x 3/4 pocket head mounting screws.

    Probably going to wind up buying some old S26 to rob the tweeter. But if anyone has one or two here's your chance to profit. I'd even swap the S26II for a pair of S26.

    FWIW, I also note that different PT800 have slight variations in the tweeter mounts. Some have washers under the plastic flanges, some do not. Actually the one from the S26II might work but it won't drop into the plastic flange with the correct orientation.

  12. #2022
    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    Following up: I found a pair of S38 being parted out and grabbed the tweeters. Part # 335663-001 and a perfect fit in the PT800 EOS with no spacers.

  13. #2023
    Senior Member jblsound's Avatar
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    With the need to accommodate toward getting a larger flat screen (right now only a 32") I decided to do a mod of one of my PT800s for center channel use. Cut a circle around the tweeter/mid to make a rotating module so the HF/MF will always be in vertical alignment for either vertical or horizontal placement.

    Required four things...a quality, heavy jigsaw, with a smooth motion, an eagle eye and a steady hand. And lastly, a material that would fill the saw kerf and hold the module in place by friction. That material was a strip of vinyl with a thickness between 1/16 ~ 1/8", which was both firm enough and also soft enough to grab onto the module. Thus no screws or bolts needed to keep it in place.

    Although, I did add a pair of finish bolts to act as handles to remove or turn the module, w/o having to remove the midrange driver.
    I also decided not to use the TV/center stand I have been using. Instead mounted the mod PT800 to one of the subs.
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  14. #2024
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblsound View Post
    With the need to accommodate toward getting a larger flat screen (right now only a 32") I decided to do a mod of one of my PT800s for center channel use. Cut a circle around the tweeter/mid to make a rotating module so the HF/MF will always be in vertical alignment for either vertical or horizontal placement.

    Required four things...a quality, heavy jigsaw, with a smooth motion, an eagle eye and a steady hand. And lastly, a material that would fill the saw kerf and hold the module in place by friction. That material was a strip of vinyl with a thickness between 1/16 ~ 1/8", which was both firm enough and also soft enough to grab onto the module. Thus no screws or bolts needed to keep it in place.

    Although, I did add a pair of finish bolts to act as handles to remove or turn the module, w/o having to remove the midrange driver.
    I also decided not to use the TV/center stand I have been using. Instead mounted the mod PT800 to one of the subs.
    Nice! How many PT800's do you have?

  15. #2025
    Senior Member jblsound's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpatt View Post
    Nice! How many PT800's do you have?
    I have 5 PT800s and never had a PC600 or the PS1400s.
    I've been running a vertical center since '02. First a L212 (7 L212s in that system) then a PT800 (5 PT800, 2 L212(rears) in that system). Right now I am using 3 PT800 (surrounds), mod PT800 center, 2 Custom MJC212 for the mains.
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