Except for this ad.Originally Posted by rdgrimes
I'd add that the whole thing with docking PT800 and PS1400 was lost on most people, they didn't even know it was possible. JBL never even published a photo of a docked stack.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...1&d=1122583165
Thanks for my new avatar.
Just been having a private conversation with rdgrimes over the issue of auto on/off; permanently on; or even manually switched on for the PS1400's. To see if any of these have contributing or mitigating factors to increase the longevity of service in our end-of-line subs...
I've just recently added 4 more of them to my theatre set up and have them currently set to auto on/off. Though, as rdgrimes quite rightly points out, I'm exposing them to thermal stresses every time they turn on/off - and potential current spikes.
My original pair have 18 months of use in the auto on/off mode without issue; so I'm curious for those other forum members how are yours triggered?
Regards...
Last edited by RedCoat23; 11-12-2012 at 03:26 PM. Reason: grammar
I took the recommendation of rd and widget that leaving them on was least stressful. Plus the auto feature doesn't work well. Im a 14 month owner
Performance Series 5.1/1990s L1.L5.L7/L100A
http://adsoftheworld.com/media/tv/ac...cuses_tube_amp
When you think about the environment those PCBs and electronics are in, it's a wonder they work at all. The amp is very well built with heavy steel plates all around, built like a tank. this photo is from the side, with the outside plate on the left. But subs have been self-destructing for many years and will continue to do so. It's a good argument for passive subs.
I leave mine on.
For me it's more a question of function. The auto-on is slow to respond to a signal, and frequently turns off when I don't want it to. Not really sensitive enough I guess.
I'm going to try auto-on for a while but I bet I'll give up in a couple days.
You're welcome. Here's one from my gallery if you want a clearer one.Thanks for my new avatar.
How warm do they get idling in the always-on setting? I have used the auto on/off setting for mine for a good number of months with no problems, but will switch gladly if there is a good reason, including if it reduces the risk of this kind of melt-down.
A certain number of amps will melt down regardless of what you do. They don't get very warm when idling, but do cool off when in standby. Only the output stage is off in standby, which is what cooked in mine. Is it better to keep them warm all the time or reduce the hours on the output stage? 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Mine was on 24/7 for some years before it cooked. No question that using auto-standby is more eco-friendly.
just measured the plates on my two units with an IR gun, 85.3F and 85.8F, respectively, after a night being off and in a room at 70F. So slightly warm to the touch in idle, IMO less harm than the cycling of the auto on/off
I work in semiconductor packaging (the housing of the Si and GaAs chips with metals and polymers), and of all the hardcore reliability testing we do, temperature cycling damage usually trumps those caused by continuous operation, FWIW.
plus, for me the trigger sensitivity isn't there, have to crank the volume to get them to respond, and they shut off when I don't want them to, tried that the first few weeks of ownership, then took the recommendation of those here and have been much more satisfied.
Performance Series 5.1/1990s L1.L5.L7/L100A
http://adsoftheworld.com/media/tv/ac...cuses_tube_amp
In the interest of completeness:
The amp that cooked has a main PCB marked "rev 03D" and a date of 11-8-2000. I failed to check the new one before installing.
I noted some differences with the one I installed, which has screws holding the plastic box on the back, where the old one had none. They also seem to have different sensitivity in the auto-on circuit and the new one doesn't thump like the old one when it shuts off.
Got the stacks back into the HT. It's still a tough call whether I prefer the L250, they certainly have their strong points. But the stacks still win out due to clarity, dispersion and imaging.
Come to the dark side they said. You've never actually heard the PS's full potential they said.
(Sorry, there are two less of those now in stock)
While the PS1400 is a cute looking little box the real gem is the LE14H-3. One can do wonders with that transducer when placed in the same volume and tuning as the 250Ti.
4 cubic feet tuned to 28 Hz.
Rockler sells the router bits (~ $140) to build the octagons with interlocking edges.
Use a real amplifier.
Just thought I'd toss that in for those who get bored and like to build stuff.
I'm bored...While the PS1400 is a cute looking little box the real gem is the LE14H-3. One can do wonders with that transducer when placed in the same volume and tuning as the 250Ti.
4 cubic feet tuned to 28 Hz.
Rockler sells the router bits (~ $140) to build the octagons with interlocking edges.
Use a real amplifier.
Just thought I'd toss that in for those who get bored and like to build stuff.
I've been looking at this for awhile. Any ideas on how to double the size of the box and keep it from looking disproportional? Can one safely raise the height of the PT800 without it harming the sound, how much higher might be ok?
Is the distance of the 14" and 8" woofer critical, they have them spread apart pretty significantly.
As i said earlier, I used the 240's as tuned enclosures for the LE14H3 using the PS1400 amp, it sounded really good, with no gain.
What would be a better amp?
There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote