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Thread: New cabinet for L200

  1. #16
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    I have sourced the tweeters. Would it be correct that i should get the 8 ohm 2405H tweeters ( i note there is a 16 ohm version).?
    All 077s and 2405s use the same diaphragm and have the same impedance regardless of what is printed on the foilcal. Here is a comparison I made years ago.


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  2. #17
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    thank u Mr Widget
    Still no comments abt the volume of the L300 cabinet and the recommendation to me that i should aspire to a volume of 5.5 to 6 cu feet?
    Thanking u in anticipation

  3. #18
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    thank u Mr Widget
    Still no comments abt the volume of the L300 cabinet and the recommendation to me that i should aspire to a volume of 5.5 to 6 cu feet?
    Thanking u in anticipation
    Kind of depends on what you want to have, doesn't it?

    I mean, the L300 is a legendary speaker that commands high resale values even today -
    seems like they got many things right with that combination.

    Why redesign it if you are not sure what you'll have afterwards,
    and you aren't sure that all the pieces will work that well together?
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  4. #19
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    3133 parts

    Points well taken James
    Will be working towards making the L300 cabs.

    The 3133 schematic u gave me has my electronical friend a bit concerned.
    We need to source all those parts (coils and caps) in the US. No way to get those funny mH spec coils here!
    Can u put me in touch with a seller who will be familiar with what i need and who will ship the stuff to me?

  5. #20
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    Points well taken James
    Will be working towards making the L300 cabs.

    The 3133 schematic you gave me has my electronic friend a bit concerned.
    We need to source all those parts (coils and caps) in the US. No way to get those funny mH spec coils here!
    Can you put me in touch with a seller who will be familiar with what i need and who will ship the stuff to me?
    I believe I got most of it from Parts Express when I built my pair a few years ago -
    http://www.parts-express.com

    Wrote it all on a list, looked it up, put in the order online ...

    I gave you the just the schematic a couple posts back, but I would recommend you read
    the full design thread where that schemo came from

    4333/S300/L300 equivalent bandbass circuit
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...-circuit/page4
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  6. #21
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    Thanks hJames
    Do u anticipate i may run into major issues in using the LE15B instead of 2234 or 2235 with the 3133 X over?
    impedance issues?
    btw those wooden horns/lenses on yr LE85 s are cool

  7. #22
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    Thanks hJames
    Do u anticipate i may run into major issues in using the LE15B instead of 2234 or 2235 with the 3133 X over?
    impedance issues?
    btw those wooden horns/lenses on yr LE85 s are cool
    The question is do you think at some point you would get a pair of 2234s of 2235s for your woofers? If its likely that at some point you will, build for that now, and in a year or so when the budget is there, upgrde. Like I said, don't plan to do everything now.

    Build your crossover, get your super tweeters and used what you have now...
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  8. #23
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    Here's an idea. Let's keep it simple, yet tunable.

    Design your cabinet for 6 cubic feet of interior and don't worry about accounting for the bracing and speakers. You'll loose some interior volume, but there will be plenty left.

    Use 4" diameter PVC tube for your port(s) and get a 4" PVC coupler(s). Cut a hole(s) in the cabinet baffleboard that will provide a snug fit around the PVC. Cut a piece of PVC just long enough so that when you shove it all the way into the coupler it sticks out 3/4" and glue them together. Use fine sandpaper to go around the inside of the other side of the coupler to "loosen" the fit when you put PVC tube into it. Now glue the coupler to the baffleboard putting the short piece though the hole.

    Cut a piece of PVC to whatever length port you would like to start your testing with. Smear Vasoline (or such) around the inside of the coupler and put this piece of PVC into the coupler. Now you can change the tuning by just removing the PVC, cutting it to a new length, and reinserting it. Obviously, your minimum port length will be the length of the coupler, but that is shorter than you are likely to go.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Here's an idea. Let's keep it simple, yet tunable.

    Design your cabinet for 6 cubic feet of interior and don't worry about accounting for the bracing and speakers. You'll loose some interior volume, but there will be plenty left.

    Use 4" diameter PVC tube for your port(s) and get a 4" PVC coupler(s). Cut a hole(s) in the cabinet baffleboard that will provide a snug fit around the PVC. Cut a piece of PVC just long enough so that when you shove it all the way into the coupler it sticks out 3/4" and glue them together. Use fine sandpaper to go around the inside of the other side of the coupler to "loosen" the fit when you put PVC tube into it. Now glue the coupler to the baffleboard putting the short piece though the hole.

    Cut a piece of PVC to whatever length port you would like to start your testing with. Smear Vasoline (or such) around the inside of the coupler and put this piece of PVC into the coupler. Now you can change the tuning by just removing the PVC, cutting it to a new length, and reinserting it. Obviously, your minimum port length will be the length of the coupler, but that is shorter than you are likely to go.
    Good advice and well described
    Thanks again Toddalin
    much to do...

  10. #25
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    L200

    Ok here are pics of the base reinforced and holed out, and the back reinforced too.
    The plan is to increase volume by about 1 cu ft.
    Reinforcement necessary cause the board is kinda flakey under the old veneer especially at corners.

    Parts for modding LX16 to A version(change a cap and a coil) and for custom N8000 on the way.
    2045s (ceramic, cheaper) on way too.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  11. #26
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    Lx16

    Have disassembled the LX16A s and will build custom LX16A + N8000 X overs.
    Would like to keep the back plate of the original cans
    but they look pretty shabby.
    Aluminium oxide has lifted off the paint
    How do i tidy these up?

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  12. #27
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    Have disassembled the LX16A s and will build custom LX16A + N8000 X overs.
    Would like to keep the back plate of the original cans
    but they look pretty shabby.
    Aluminum oxide has lifted off the paint
    How do i tidy these up?

    Thanks
    Why bother? Rebuild the circuit onto a plank or whatever you like because it'll work inside the system anyway.

    All you need is a dual connector plate on the back of the cabinet, right?

    The LF output and HF output are meant to go to the two drivers in the cabinet anyway
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Why bother? Rebuild the circuit onto a plank or whatever you like because it'll work inside the system anyway.

    All you need is a dual connector plate on the back of the cabinet, right?

    The LF output and HF output are meant to go to the two drivers in the cabinet anyway
    Yes, of course the new X over goes on a plank (new coils are v big - no way can be canned)
    thought would be nice to use the face plate of the can for the binding posts and perhaps the 8 ohm L pad pot (we ll see when they arrive).
    u know 'originality' and all that..

  14. #29
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highcut28 View Post
    Yes, of course the new X over goes on a plank (new coils are v big - no way can be canned)
    thought would be nice to use the face plate of the can for the binding posts and perhaps the 8 ohm L pad pot (we ll see when they arrive).
    u know 'originality' and all that..
    This is what I crafted for the back of my L200 cabinets -
    I had originally biAmped them, in my downstairs system, so I had figured LF feed on the bottom to the 2234s I have,
    then a HF feed to the internal crossover with that feeding the 2425 & 2405 drivers upper pair ...
    but I've completely changed things around since then ...

    Currently, lower pair is full range input, and the upper pair is for mid-range out of the cabinet
    for the external walnut horn and 2445 drivers on top (see Avatar)

    The only thing I regret is that someday I will need to redo them,
    as I didn't use or have any dual banana connectors when I made it,
    so the spacing isn't right for them. I'd probably stain the wood as well.

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    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  15. #30
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    nice.
    Practicality will rule the day and mine will prob look like that

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