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Thread: LE14H-1 refoam question

  1. #1
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    LE14H-1 refoam question

    .
    I recently bought some 250Ti's that need refoaming ....purchased the Rick Cobb kit..

    removed old foam and cleaned up basket and cone pretty well after removing the black plastic ring.
    so I test fitted the foam ring ...its pretty tight against the basket channel , but there is maybe 1/32
    gap between surround and cone.

    I've always glued the surround to the cone FIRST and did centering adjustments on the next glueing to the frame ...this does not appear possible here ...I PMed a forum member who has done some of these and uses
    OC rings , he does them in the same order that I've traditionally done the smaller ones.

    to do THIS one correctly, should I be glueing to the basket frame FIRST and then centering on the step of
    attaching the cone ?

    I realize that as long as it works correctly, the order is less important, but I'd like to get forum advice before starting on an expensive driver..

    thx.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    I've always glued the surround to the cone FIRST and did centering adjustments on the next glueing to the frame ...this does not appear possible here ...I PMed a forum member who has done some of these and uses
    OC rings , he does them in the same order that I've traditionally done the smaller ones.
    That's the way I always do it. Get it centered on the cone first and then use the "slop" on the frame. Problem is there is very little "slop" on those square frame drivers, I have done a couple of pairs and I had one driver that was extremely hard to center. Can you post some pictures not sure what you mean by the gap. Is the gap between the cone and the edge of the surround on the back of the driver??

    Rob
    "I could be arguing in my spare time"

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    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    Is the gap between the cone and the edge of the surround on the back of the driver??
    Rob
    when positioned with foam under the cone..the gap between the inside edge of the roll and outer edge of the cone ..it is the only place where I can see any possible adjustment , hopefully it needs none and can stay perfectly centered.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

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    Senior Member pathfindermwd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    when positioned with foam under the cone..the gap between the inside edge of the roll and outer edge of the cone ..it is the only place where I can see any possible adjustment , hopefully it needs none and can stay perfectly centered.
    I guess I would start with the cone as well. I had lots of difficulty with my set. I could not get the surround to lay down on the back of the cone. I did it all at once and it was very nerve racking. Never did get it on the back of the cone perfectly. Are you going to use a test tone, or shims? I carefully cut the dust cap leaving just a little piece connecting it to the cone, then shim. They are a lot more difficult than the 2214's I have done a few times.

    -Hope it goes well.

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    Senior Member Amnes's Avatar
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    Seawolf can you post a pic of the dry fit?

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    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amnes View Post
    Seawolf can you post a pic of the dry fit?
    I rechecked the fit...the foam fits EXACTLY in the baskets ledge/groove/shelf and there is NO play room.

    went to Google and found that others are doing it BACKWARDS , as I asked about ...so yesterday I glued the outer lip to basket FIRST and it is dry by today so now must use inner lip to make alignment adjustments. put on the black plastic ring at the same time and it seems to hold down the lip.

    Quote Originally Posted by pathfindermwd View Post
    I did it all at once and it was very nerve racking.
    -Hope it goes well.
    have NEVER done it "all at once" ..has always been a 2 step proc for me.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    ...so yesterday I glued the outer lip to basket FIRST and it is dry by today so now must use inner lip to make alignment adjustments. ...
    How is it working out? Would you do it that way again? Did you do them both that way?

    Curious as I have some LE14H-1's that I need to do.

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    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doyall View Post
    How is it working out? Would you do it that way again? Did you do them both that way?

    Curious as I have some LE14H-1's that I need to do.

    first one came out fine ..yes, 2nd will be same proc.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    first one came out fine ..yes, 2nd will be same proc.
    Did you use shims or test tone to align the voice coil? (Seems like it would be difficult to glue down the moving cone.)

  10. #10
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doyall View Post
    Did you use shims or test tone to align the voice coil? (Seems like it would be difficult to glue down the moving cone.)
    first ..some observations b4 I answer your question.

    I knew the shelf/race/ridge on the basket that the outer foam lip glues to is small, but measured it to quantify ...
    it is EXACTLY 1/8th inch wide
    there is a black plastic ring that goes on top of that lip ..pretty flexible and tough but a bear to get the old glue off it.

    heaviest, non flexible cone I've seen ...

    very little room to get a finger between the cone & basket to remove old surround from rear of cone driver is rather heavy ...must be removed/inserted with cab on its back
    the Rick Cobb kit is just fine, but I don't think he provided enough glue to do 2 fourteen inch drivers. luckily I stall have my own supply

    shims ? NO .... tone ? NO ....
    to answer your Q.
    I shimmed on my very first driver that got refoamed (years ago) ...lots of chances to damage the face of the driver when removing dust cap ....have never even had a tone until I received this RC kit since lifetime refoam #2 (have most likely done near 200 so far) ..

    I have used the "Yoda Method" ...."use the force" , "BE the foam/cone" etc. ...I center the cone by hand and then with equal pressure from both hands , work the cone in and out, then turn 90 degrees and repeat and turn another 90 and ...........until I am happy with alignment and then either clamp down or leave alone to dry. never have had a job go bad.
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    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

  11. #11
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    I have done all of my -1's (4 pairs) myself. The first one I ever tried, had a rub so I then re-did the surround a second time. I did find it is best to attach it to the frame first.
    I then glue the surround to the cone. I have always managed to get all the old surround off the cone. After the old surround is removed, then I tape the face of the driver, lay it flat on some MDF and gently push the cone to the MDF. I the put small blocks of foam between the cone/frame to keep the cone in contact with the MDF. It is easier to work on the removal of the foam from the cone for me anyways.

    I would not shim either. I don't like the idea and it seems to me the best method is the tone. Just for the fact if the former has been distorted from some unknown force but still plays fine, shimming may not work where a tone would. I have also used the "By Hand" method and that worked just fine.
    Another thing I have found that I use alot is some fine application tips for my glue bottles.
    Always fun learning more.......

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    Appreciate the discussions. Guess I am as ready as I will ever be to tackle it.

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    Senior Member Woody Banks's Avatar
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    Great thread Tom. I will be sure to try the "Yoda Method" next time. I have always been squimish when it came time to cut away the old dust cap. Without a lazy susan or turntable it is also difficult to get a decent glue line on the replacement cap. Your method solves these issues.

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    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woody Banks View Post
    Great thread Tom. I will be sure to try the "Yoda Method" next time. I have always been squimish when it came time to cut away the old dust cap. Without a lazy susan or turntable it is also difficult to get a decent glue line on the replacement cap. Your method solves these issues.
    the only problem with the YM is all the special gear that you need ...

    hands
    quiet room
    ability to hear a scrape
    patience




    one last thing...I did rotate the driver 180 when reinstalling to counter any effects of aging on the spider. (sag..tho didn't see any)
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    the only problem with the YM is all the special gear that you need ...

    hands
    quiet room
    ability to hear a scrape
    patience




    one last thing...I did rotate the driver 180 when reinstalling to counter any effects of aging on the spider. (sag..tho didn't see any)
    Glad it turned out well...I have two pairs of the LE14H-1's to do, and have been procrastinating. Question - after the surround to the basket has dried, how did you apply the glue for the surround-to-cone part? Thanks.

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