Charge Couple - 250TiLE.

[Robh3606]

Once again for the biamped network you can drop much of the network components (everything to the LE-14-1 but add a zobel, and the high pass portion going to the 108H) since the electronic crossover will be doing the low pass to the woofer and the high pass to the mid woofer. Or you can leave it stock.

You can't just drop out the components. You have to check the changes to the 108H voltage drive and then make changes in the balance of the network to match the original voltage drive. The changes can be significant so you can't ignore them.



Rob

[JBL_620]

You can't just drop out the components. You have to check the changes to the 108H voltage drive and then make changes in the balance of the network to match the original voltage drive. The changes can be significant so you can't ignore them.


Rob

Thanks much Rob for the pointer on the coil values.

Since I am a newbie to this hobby, so are you saying I need to measure the stock voltage of the 108H at the drive terminals then make sure the CC circuit matches this voltage? Do I need to do the same for other HF drivers or just the 108H only?

Also, while doing my parts shopping, I've noticed most of the components (Iron core inductors and the caps) are physically big. I am starting to be concerned of the breadboard size required. Maybe I need to have two separate boards and piggy-bag them?

Do you or can you please show some photos of your CC Julibee(if you still have some)? Perhaps I can learn or get some ideas from them like the size/diimension of the breadboard/s.

Basically, measure the DC resistance of the original inductor, then measure the DC resistance of the replacement. The use a series resistor to make up the difference. (I'm making an assumption here that the new inductor has less DC resistance, which is usually true) This gives the new inductor effectively the same electrical characteristics of the new one, so it's behavior in the circuit is effectively unchanged.

Thanks again Uncle Paul. I understand now. This whole thing seems already to be more involved and detailed than I had anticipated (probably and very likely due to the fact that I've never done anything like this before). The pain is part of the game I guess.

[Robh3606]

Since I am a newbie to this hobby, so are you saying I need to measure the stock voltage of the 108H at the drive terminals then make sure the CC circuit matches this voltage? Do I need to do the same for other HF drivers or just the 108H only?

Hello

No you are fine with the CC network. You would only have to check if you changed from the stock network beyond the CC that you plan on doing. For example if you decided to biamp with an active crossover and took out a section of the network on the 108H then you would have to do some measurement of you could do it in a simulator like LEAP.

Here is a link to my Biamp Jubilee build.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...l250ti+jubilee

Rob

[Uncle Paul]

You can't just drop out the components. You have to check the changes to the 108H voltage drive and then make changes in the balance of the network to match the original voltage drive. The changes can be significant so you can't ignore them.



Rob

You are correct, sir! If the voltage drive can be duplicated by the crossover it would be my preference to do it there, but otherwise I'd stick with the network as designed but with CC'd caps.

[JBL_620]

Thanks Robh3606 for your link to the CC Jubilee. I have read through them and good job on the speaker cloning. Do you have own the pair?


So here's the BOM with price for one speaker. Since I am going to be using an active XO, I will likely not order the parts for the LF portion (or maybe I should in case at the end of the day I will just stick to the CC network only - without the biamp. I am not sure yet).




Obviously, the shown price doesn't include the required misc parts like (this is what I can thing of at the moment):

• 9V battery and connectors
• PCB's (I will stack the PCB's similar to how Robh3606 did on his CC Juliee)
• Stand-offs, washers and screws
• 2-position toggle switches
• speaker terminals
• etc...

Do these prices seem about right in today's market? These are all from the Parts Express.

Any concerns of the listed brands or specs?

Any suggestion or recommendation on the PCB's? Use MDF cardboard from Home Depot?
Thanks again.