The E145 is a good candidate, but the thickness of the rim of the basket might be a problem. I will certainly try since I have a pair :-).
The E145 is a good candidate, but the thickness of the rim of the basket might be a problem. I will certainly try since I have a pair :-).
Depending of the application, but large-cone driver has tendency for "beaming", on one side, and for 2420 to operate too "low" (I guess lower then 1000~1200Hz) is not the best solution. My be 10inch driver ( 2123 ) is good candidate. I can understand that in such occasion some "wood-work" has to be done.
6dB network for 2405 is may be dangerous,
look at JBL 2405 technical recommendation crossover: 0ver 7kHz, with -12dB/octave minimum
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/2405.pdf
I will not rebuild these cabinets. They are for party duty :-). I just want them to sound as good as possible with a small effort. I will most probably remove the 2405 since it is too precious to risk in a party environment.
I am currently in the same bandwagon as you. I have some 4520 bass bins that I want to cut at 100Hz, just before the dip/cancellation of 120Hz. I will probably use a pair of 15" 2225 and build (or buy used) a pair of Altec 816 to use from 100Hz to 1Khz, where I will crossover to a 2397/2441 and to 2405 at 8KHz.
Now I have assembled the stack. 2227H in the scoops and 2220H in the tops. Radian diaphragms in the 2420 drivers on the 2370 horns. I swapped the alnico 2405 for ferrite.
Swapping the jbl 553 filter for a dbx 234XL improved the sound. I am using a DBX 2231 EQ for the first time. The scoops are driven by a QSC mx3000a, 2220 by a LAB 1000 and the 2420/2405 by a LAB 300.
I am very happy with the sound of the 2220H, they didn't need much EQ at all. Soundstage is wide and voices sound very dynamic.
The listening room is a bit too small for the scoops, but at high listening volumes they started kicking :-). First I tried crossing them over at 300Hz, but that didn't good at all. 170 Hz sounded much better. The amplifier has a "stepped linear" output stage which I suspect doesn't sound good at low listening levels, I'll swap it for a LAB 1500.
The 2370 horns needed some EQing as I had expected. They sounded nice with the 2420, but not at all close large format horns.
A friend of mine helped me with the tuning. He has a magic touch. What impressed me most of all is that he very quickly made adjustments to the EQ when I swapped records, making the new record sound good. He likes adjusting things. I usually just swap records when they don't sound good. Having an EQ gives you the opportunity to correct mistakes made by the mixing engineer :-).
I am looking forward listening on these in a properly sized room!
I got my hands on a pair of K130. They have lighter cones than 2220H, in theory they should sound better than 2220H in midrange. Now I have tried them and I must say I am a bit dissapointed. They sound darker than the 2220. Also I got irritating S-sounds on some recordings. I know its an instrument speaker, but I had to try. Anyone got an explanation for them sounding murky? Remag needed? One is reconed I believe.
I use the cannon below 70 Hz with a Rane AD22B delaying the rest of the system about 9 feet. Bass is very good!
2220's are just plain hard to beat above 1-200Hz, still one of my favorites. :^)
If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.
I approve the use of E or K-130 for 15 inchers, with felt duscaps! Or EV SRO-15
Thanks for your input. Ivica, I am crossing over to 2420/2370 at 1,4 kHz at 24 dB, I don´t believe that peaks at 5 k will be heard.
I have talked to a friend of mine about cone shape. I believe that K130 cones are straight, but 2220H are curved. Straight cones should exhibit more cone flex than curved cones. Could this be the reason for the dark sound?
Tomorrow I will swap the K130 for 2220A anyways. :-)
Hi Mårten!
The E130 has indeed a curvlinear cone, like the 2220.
I don't know about the K130 though, but would imagine they are similar.
E130 has a pronounced resonance (up 10dB) at about 2kHz.
This is definitely audible with a 1,4 kHz crossover.
For home use, the aluminum dust cap can be cut out, and changed to a felt one. This dampens the resonance peak a great deal.
Hey guys
The question of finding the best midrange is difficult! It´s always a matter of taste, but harmonics is usually something we can agree on. A guy I know has just replaced his 2220 with i pair of E140 for the low midrange. Mainly because he wanted to try a heavier cone. Well the 2220 is a very good midrange driver. The E140 is more laid back and sweet. for the sub/bass he´s using two 2240´s, and he found out that the E140 connects better to the 2240 than the 2220. I think it has a lot to do with the application and taste. Personally i think there are some good JBL drivers for midrange, it often depends on the crossing area. I like the good old 2226 because of it´s attack and ability to do upper bass, compared to the 2220.
Martin
Thanks for your input. Now I am using the alnico 2220, and I am very happy with them. I use them from 170 Hz to 1,4 kHz in a large ported box (have no clue to tuning freq).
They are cuvlinear as well, I was mistaken.I don't know about the K130 though, but would imagine they are similar.
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