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Thread: New Charge Coupled Crossovers in the house

  1. #16
    Senior Member jerry_rig's Avatar
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    Congrats! Somehow I can relate. Nice work all around on those. Enjoy!
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  2. #17
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Very nice looking assembly.

    I can totally 'picture' work like this, framed, on a wall behind each speaker, with a art/display lamp highlighting them.

    Has anyone assembling this type of ptp circuit on wood, considered using insulated eyelets? It probably makes little or no difference at audio frequencies, and low circuit impedances, but it still makes me wince... a teeny tiny bit.

  3. #18
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    Great looking. One can only imagine the time and effort put into those crossovers.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  4. #19
    Senior Member timc's Avatar
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    Very nice looking!
    2213 + 2435HPL w/aquaplas + H9800 (Matsj edition)

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    Very nice looking assembly.

    I can totally 'picture' work like this, framed, on a wall behind each speaker, with a art/display lamp highlighting them.

    Has anyone assembling this type of ptp circuit on wood, considered using insulated eyelets? It probably makes little or no difference at audio frequencies, and low circuit impedances, but it still makes me wince... a teeny tiny bit.
    Probably not much to be gained. Dry wood is a pretty good insulator.

    Allan.

  6. #21
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
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    Interesting. The schematic you posted shows a 4 leg circuit, but it appears your CC systems only have 3 legs and yet there are 3 trim-pots.
    How are you running your bi-Amp design - wondering how you are doing the hi-low split and what amps are involved?

    Thanks for the time and the detailed information!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lynn Allen View Post
    With the basic criteria set I still was looking for something that was unique in design and allowed for the crossovers to be installed separately with one crossover on top of each speaker. Since the speakers are bi-amped I wanted a design to provide the best sound possible. More research found this charged coupled design by Giskard for the 4345. Even more research revealed that this was not only a great design, but was an upgrade for the 4343’s, 4344’s and the 4345’s. All my research kept directing me to Giskard and his charged coupled designs. With the experience and expertise he brings to the LHS forum and crossover designs, it didn’t take much coaching to realize that his design would be the best choice from my custom built 4344 crossover build. Thanks again Giskard for all your posts and help to everyone on the LHS forum!! This would not be possible without your help.

    Giskards charge coupled 4 way crossover design
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  7. #22
    Member aktivkampi's Avatar
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    Congratiolations Wonderful work

  8. #23
    Senior Member JuniorJBL's Avatar
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    Very Nice!!
    Always fun learning more.......

  9. #24
    Senior Member mbottz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Interesting. The schematic you posted shows a 4 leg circuit, but it appears your CC systems only have 3 legs and yet there are 3 trim-pots.
    How are you running your bi-Amp design - wondering how you are doing the hi-low split and what amps are involved?

    Thanks for the time and the detailed information!

    For Bi-Amp purposes the components within the dashed lines of the schematic are deleted from the circuit. The LF amp is connected directly to the Woofer. On the original JBL crossovers, changing the switch to Bi-amp mode did the same thing.

    mb
    Restoring the legend, one cabinet at a time

  10. #25
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    Is there any HF attenuation on the woofer? active or passive?

    Mark
    Think center channel for 250TIs; (2) 108s, a 104 and a 44ti, now what?

  11. #26
    Senior Member mbottz's Avatar
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    Not at this point. We will be experimenting with a passive LF bandpass filter to see what difference that makes. Any suggestions?
    Restoring the legend, one cabinet at a time

  12. #27
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    Simply Incredible!!!!! - Now I wish I did the same when I built my DIY 4345

  13. #28
    Junior Member Andrea Mac's Avatar
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    new giskard crossovers

    Hi there, i am new, I am Andrea from Venice, Italy, i am planning to restore a couple of 4341, and obviously even to rebuild crossovers... i have seen your beautiful job, but i have a question , i have seen many times the option for to bi-amp the crossover, but never seen if for low section is employed the marked part (lines mark) for bass section in giskard project or what kind of low pass filter, someone can help me?
    thanks in advance
    Andrea

  14. #29
    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea Mac View Post
    Hi there, i am new, I am Andrea from Venice, Italy, i am planning to restore a couple of 4341, and obviously even to rebuild crossovers... i have seen your beautiful job, but i have a question , i have seen many times the option for to bi-amp the crossover, but never seen if for low section is employed the marked part (lines mark) for bass section in giskard project or what kind of low pass filter, someone can help me?
    thanks in advance
    Andrea

    Hello--Welcome to the LH forums. I'll try to answer your question, though I have no direct experience with that speaker. As poster mbotts indicated in post No. 25 above, when building a new crossover for biamping, the components within the dashed lines on the schematic sre omitted. This deletion replicates the effect of moving the built-in biamp external/internal crossover switch (if you have one) to the biamp position. The low pass and high pass for the woofer/midbass handoff are then handled by an external line-level electronic crossover, which you must provide, placed between the preamp and TWO power amps in each stereo channel, one for the woofer and one for the upper three drivers. The type of filter and whether 12, 18, or 24 dB slope would depend on what you have available to you and/or what sounds best to you. The external crossover should be set at about 300 Hz, although, if your crossover has the felixibilty, you might experiment with frequencies a little lower, down to about 250.
    "Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini

  15. #30
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    Thumbs up

    I never thought of displaying a crossover. I have to admit it looks great like this so nice work!
    I have always used this stuff for larger audiences in bigger venues so I am amazed at what people put in their houses. I am jealous!

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