Sub-woofer #4

[badman]

Modal management was always the goal. We did have a grasp on the situation even way back then. Some people have merely put a multi-million dollar spin on it. Good for them!

Fair enough!

For what it's worth- not sure that anybody's making millions on distributed bass

[4313B]

For what it's worth- not sure that anybody's making millions on distributed bass

Spent on R&D... It's a joke.

[Robh3606]

I was resetting some levels and got to actually measure a 6db rise with the second sub added. I was hoping they were close enough for mutual coupling to work and in fact they are. This works out better than I had hopped as I can back down the gain to both and only run them at 1/4 the power levels of before for the same SPL. Now unless I get stupid I never clip out the driving amps which was an issue with just the one LFE sub.

Rob

[Allanvh5150]

You can never have too many subs, Rob!

Allan.

[rdgrimes]

If your electric bill is $500 and the drywall is falling off in the listening room, you might have too many subs.

[Allanvh5150]

If your electric bill is $500 and the drywall is falling off in the listening room, you might have too many subs.

It is! And?

Allan.

[DS-21]

I say both are true- true 4 or 5 location sub setups are awful hard for real-world rooms,***

But one of the benefits of multisubs is that each one needn't be a monster, so it can be possible to fit several subs into a room.

For example, I just upgraded the subs in my current living room. (See "modest multisub" thread in the DIY section of AVS for the old setup, which sounded and measured great but had three visible subs in the room. I used Geddes' setup methods. There will also be a writeup on the new setup, once I get time to do it.)

The total cabinet volume of the new subwoofer set is actually much more, about 95L compared to 70L previously), but because the subs were designed for the room there is not a single millimeter of subwoofer visible.

The main sub (a 65L closed box with an Aurasound NS12-794-4A, powered by a Dayton 1kW rack amp) is inside a piece of furniture (a cheap HOL chest from Ikea, modified with a cushioned fleece top to provide our kittens a place to sit and look out the window) in a front corner.

One of the secondary subs (a 15L closed box with an Aurasound NS10-794-4A, powered by an NHT A1) is inside a basket on a bookcase shelf.

The other secondary sub (a 15L closed box with a Peerless 830452 XLS10, powered by an NHT A1) is inserted inside the coffee table. (The coffee table is off to the side, so as to not provide reflections from the audio system.)

As far as output, I've not (and have no need/desire to) measure their maximum output, but the sims suggest >110dB from 25Hz up based on the efficiency of each cabinet, xmax of the drive-units, and amount of power on tap.

[Allanvh5150]

Indeed. I have 2 pair of 2235's in 2, roughly, 270 L boxes. 1000 watts on each box. I am lucky because they are built into the walls so they occupy no floor space.

Allan.

[Robh3606]

I am lucky because they are built into the walls so they occupy no floor space.

You guys are both lucky. I have big boxes in the open. Don't have much choice because of the layout and where they work best. It would be nice to drop them behind the walls.

Rob

[Robh3606]

Now that I have a pair of them I can dig up the Synthesis Bass EQ I grabbed off Ebay a while back. I finished making a rack box for the "control side sub", now I just have to wire it all up and see what the EQ can do.

Rob