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Thread: Charge coulpled L96/3313B crossovers?

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    Senior Member briang's Avatar
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    Charge coulpled L96/3313B crossovers?

    After much pondering, I've decided to ask if anyone on this forums wouule be interested in helping me with creating a pair of charge coupled 4313B crossovers for one of my L96 pairs?

    Who is up to the challange?

    I did plenty of soldering in my undergraduate physics courses, so I think I have the skills to do some of the grunt work; however, layout of the components on a board and component choices are best left to the experienced.

    Who wants to help?
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    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Link us to the schematic, please.

    [I ain't huntin' it down.... ]

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    Senior Member sourceoneaudio's Avatar
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    Calculator

    Briang,
    Here is a link to a value calculator this might help on your component/value search.

    https://selectproducts.com/calculator_bandpass.html

    J/S-S1A

  4. #4
    Senior Member briang's Avatar
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    One step ahead of me, Zilch

    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch View Post
    Link us to the schematic, please.

    [I ain't huntin' it down.... ]
    Thanks Zilch, I'll take that as a "yes, I'll help"

    In another post, Giskard created this amalgum of the L110, L110A, L96, 4313 and 4313B filters. I offer my thanks to Giskard for this photo and his other contributions.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by briang; 02-16-2007 at 01:57 PM. Reason: photo uploac
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    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by briang View Post
    Thanks Zilch, I'll take that as a "yes, I'll help" .
    Well, no, it was more like "Yes, I'll take a look."

    You're wanting charge coupled 3113B, as I understand it.

    That's not terribly tough, as there's only four capacitors, none of them inordinately large values.

    Let me draw up the schematic, maybe tonight, then; there'll be some design choices in that, even....

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    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Hello Briang

    All you have to do to convert is to double the value and add a second cap of the 2X value. So to change a 1uf you would double it to 2uf and add a second 2uf cap. You then put the resistor at the junction of the 2 caps so you end up with a T on your schematic. The 2-3 meg resistor goes to the + on your 9 volt battery. The negative on the battery goes to ground. It's really easy to do. If you can read the schematic you can do this. Do a search and take a look at Giskards posted schematics. Solens are a good start and they are reasonably priced.

    Rob

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    Senior Member briang's Avatar
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    What a wonderful world

    Thanks to all those offering assistance.

    I'm also concerned with how all the additional caps, resister and 9V will be accomodated from a real estate and organization/placement standpoint.

    I'll likely use the existing L96 crossovers (if practical) and solder/desolder as needed to create the new filter circuits. If I need an additional bread board, I can do that too...

    Thanks, I look forward to seeing these finished and hearing them...I blame all my fellow JBL afflicted friends here for my desire/disease to try new things and charge coupling...
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    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by briang View Post
    I'll likely use the existing L96 crossovers (if practical) and solder/desolder as needed to create the new filter circuits.
    Not likely.

    Put up a pic of the factory crossover....

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    Senior Member briang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch View Post
    Not likely.

    Put up a pic of the factory crossover....
    When I get home from work...
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    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Check me, please. Separate battery in LF is only required if you biamp; otherwise they can all run off one (through their individual 2.2M Rs).

    You're gonna have $40+ per crossover in 33uF caps alone. Still want to go ahead with this?

    Do you intend to biamp?

    Link me to the discussion by Giskard. Let's see what he said about doing this....
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    Senior Member briang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch View Post
    Check me, please. Separate battery in LF is only required if you biamp; otherwise they can all run off one (through their individual 2.2M Rs).

    You're gonna have $40+ per crossover in 33uF caps alone. Still want to go ahead with this?

    Do you intend to biamp?

    Link me to the discussion by Giskard. Let's see what he said about doing this....
    Go ahead = yes.
    Biamp = nope.
    Link= http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=9854
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  12. #12
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    O.K., then. Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper to measure the wire diameter in L2, 3, and 4, or means to accurately measure their DCRs?

    I can kinda guess from the pic once it's up, but it's better to know....

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    I have a bunch of the 3.5 mH 7.5 ohm coils since I used them all the time for custom installations of these systems. You will gain nothing by using anything else. The 0.30 mH has a DCR of ~ 0.3 ohms and the 0.75 mH has a DCR of ~ 0.6 ohms.

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    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Thank you, Giskard!

    Brian, you should acquire a pair of the L3 inductors from Giskard.

    I would advise against scavenging from your original crossovers until these are complete and you are satisfied with them. You may also want to be able to reinstall the originals at a later date.

    I'll work up the rest of the parts list this weekend....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    Hello Briang

    All you have to do to convert is to double the value and add a second cap of the 2X value. So to change a 1uf you would double it to 2uf and add a second 2uf cap. You then put the resistor at the junction of the 2 caps so you end up with a T on your schematic. The 2-3 meg resistor goes to the + on your 9 volt battery. The negative on the battery goes to ground. It's really easy to do. If you can read the schematic you can do this. Do a search and take a look at Giskards posted schematics. Solens are a good start and they are reasonably priced.

    Rob
    Hi Rob,

    The neg on the battery terminal goes to neg on the drivers, but NOT the neg on the main input. Correct? Just making sure. I'm doing 3145 CC networks and the phase is inverted, it doesn't make sense to tie all negs together. Yes or No?

    Are there any advantages over using Solens? I'm guessing the charge coupling "effect" lowers the network's overall inductance through battery power and the mutuality of the caps, correct? Will "better" caps really be a marked improvement? Will different caps (barring Solens) need to be non-inductive?

    Thank you,
    Nathan.

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