"Zobel is as zobel does"
There's a picture there of the transformer winding rig and a bunch of the transformers. Look at the worker's hand to get a sense of the size of the rig. You could put your head inside it--not that I'd recommend it.
For interested parties: http://ati-amp.com/manuals/ATI_Brochure_2005.pdf
I ran across a store front that had retail prices listed - not cheap, but one helluva value.
Almost afraid to ask, because the answer likely to cost me $$$$ - do you think this amp would be a good match sonically for a mere XPL-200A?
"Zobel is as zobel does"
". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers
I think it was around the time I shipped that funky Emotiva UMC-1 back.
Its probably fine for pure music only use, non-DVD and that sort of thing - but I was hesitant to rush into anything without HDMI at this date -
no HDMI was a deal breaker for me, for sure! And with the bad-acting HDMI in the Emotiva - I had already risked being burned once.
2ch - Oppo DV981, AirTunes, DAC, JoLida 502, JBL L200+
HT7- Oppo BDP-93, B&K amps, Vandy 2Ce, 2Ci, VCC1, DCM TF600 & 4641
I finally came to the conclusion that I need to keep 2 channel and HT somewhat separate in order to enjoy both. When my home addition is complete and I can hook everything back up, I'm going to use a HT receiver for TV & movies and my separates for 2 channel service. I'm going to run R & L outputs from the AVR to my 2 channel preamp and thus to my XPL200A's. Its the best compromise I can come up with that doesn't use two completely separate systems. 2 channel is my main interest and where I'm willing to spend more.
At some point in time there will be processor I can afford that will give me the features I want as well as the 2 channel quality I desire. As soon as that happens, HDMI will be made obsolete by the industry and it will start all over again.
"Zobel is as zobel does"
So many variables...
My XPL200As are running active bi-amp using the DX-1 Greg Timbers built for me through a Citation 5.0 to Hafler SR2300 pro amps. Since the DX-1 and Citation are single-ended RCAs, I have to use an adapter to hook up the Haflers. The source is a Denon DVD 2900 used as an analog stereo out. It sounds great!
The K2s are passive bi-amp running through an Outlaw 990 in bypass mode fed by an Oppo BDP-83SE using the upgraded analog outs and the sub out. The Outlaw outputs L, R, and two subs via balanced outs to balanced ins on the ATIs. The L and R have balanced Y cables. It sounds great!
Now, If I put the ATis on the XPL200s... then I'd have to buy more ATI amps.
I guess in a way I'm saying that old pre-pros with superior analog stages work great in my experience, even if the surround processing and fake ambience modes are never used again. Plus, they'll both accept phono, and external DACs, and rainbows and unicorns.
On a slightly more serious tack, I agree about the better pre-pro analog comment, though if one is going two-channel, a real two channel preamp with an even better analog design is probably the better answer. There are plenty of really excellent 2 channel preamps out there and some are surprisingly affordable.
"BGW is also an outstanding OEM supplier to many leading firms including NASA, the U.S. Navy and 3M Corporation, for whom we have designed and manufactured special audio amplifiers and customized computer systems."
I now have the AVR & Adcom system sharing the mains.....bought a 4 set speaker selector box , but only have the one pair hooked to it....the box's value is that it will take and switch 2 amps.
So ONLY the 2 main channels of the 7.1 go to the box , along with the 2 of the Adcom , works like a charm
I'd say it's time for a new thread on preamps then.
EDT: There's no preamp or pre/pro forum? Okay, Miscellaneous I guess.
I had to chuckle when I read the brochure, in particular, the part describing how the ampifiers are fully ballanced. One side does the positive part of the waveform and the other side does the negative.....really?
In a balanced line there's two signals of equal amplitude 180º apart. Usually one is labelled "+" and the other one "-", even if their respective voltage can go from positive to negative against each other.
In a normal amplifier, these two signals are summed and turned into one signal which has it's amplitude related to ground, or neutral, this signal is then amplified and deliverd to the speaker through the red binding post in the back, the black one is the neutral, chassis, or ground.
In those amplifiers, if I understand well, there is one amplifier for each of the signals and these signals are fed to the speaker directly, none of the binding post is grounded and both carry voltage, kind of like a bridged amplifier.
At least that's what I make of it.
I'm not saying it's better either
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