Long time lurker, recently registered. I am looking for an image of the solder side of a JBL L100t crossover. I am the original owner of a pair and would like to rebuild the crossover. I have new caps in hand, (Solens and Daytons). I want to etch new (larger) PCBs to accomodate the larger capacitors. Unfortunately, the speakers are at our other home and I have the parts and free time now. Thanks.
Since the drivers are the same between L100T and L100T3, why wouldn't you rebuilt it to L100t3 specs? I've had 2 pairs of L100Ts upgraded to T3 specs and its a GREAT improvement ... really tames down the shrillness of the tweeters.Originally Posted by Wayniac
I don't have the crossover diagram, tho it is available here ... just commenting that the upgrade to T3 specs is worthwhile.
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
Thanks for your reply. I have both schematics. The component layout and interconnections are almost identical for the two crossovers (N100T and NL100t3). As you know, the passive component values have been tweaked.
I am hoping to find an image of the solder side of the PCB which I will resize and configure to suit my needs, then print, transfer and etch a replacement PCB. Thanks.
I swapped the crossovers in my L80Ts for T3 crossovers. Here's a pic of both with the T on the left and the T3 on the right. Not much to see on the "solder side" of the T! I have more pics of both including the other side if that would help.
". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers
Thank you for posting this. Your images are almost what I need. With further research, I have discovered there are at least three different component layout schemes for these PCBs. Unfortunately, your t3 crossover PCB was designed for use with radial mounted capacitors. My replacements are all axials.
I was able to find a photo revealing two independent layouts. I believe your PCB is the one on the left, as luck would have it, I need the bottom view of the PCB on the right. Your efforts are appreciated.
You're right. Here's the top view of my two.
I have a later set of L80Ts that may have a real circuit board but I haven't removed them from the speakers yet to replace them with another T3 pair.
". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers
This is from a spare pair of L100T crossovers that I have.
Yep. This is exactly what I was looking for. I will post the results of my endeavors. Thank you.
Here is the modified PCB layout. I plan on flipping the image and producing a new PCB. I made a minor change to accommodate the larger capacitors. The board was also widened and stretched to fit an 8" x 10" copper clad board. A big thanks to -John W- for the image which got me going.
PCBs done.
On Saturday, we drove down to our other home and I retrieved my L100ts. I discovered I had the old style point-to-point crossovers. I set about scavenging the coils and getting this done. Once installed, the difference was readily apparent. Mostly detail, some smoothness.
Nice construction.
I see you're leaving a space between the resistors and the board, and maybe also between the capacitors.
If I may suggest, put a few blobs of silicone to secure those components to the board, and also maybe between themselves. No need to change the spacing, just so they're no so free moving.
This will avoid them breaking because of vibration.
Heavy components relying only on their own leads to support their weight often end up in the bottom of the cabinet after a while
Thanks for your comments. The caps and the coils are secured to the PCB with clear RTV. The improvement in sound quality makes the work worthwhile.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
