I'm currently running two sub1500s in parallel to one side of a K2 amp. This gives me 1250W to each sub. And they seem like they could even take more.
I'm currently running two sub1500s in parallel to one side of a K2 amp. This gives me 1250W to each sub. And they seem like they could even take more.
You can safely power them with any known amp as long as you don't exceed xmax or their thermal limit. Playing a continuous sine wave (over 24 hours) JBL found them to fail due to thermal failure at around 550 watts (46-48vrms). You would not have wanted to be in that room.
In ported cabinets I have exceeded xmax with about 600 watts each. I have no idea what the frequency content was but it was an explosion on a DVD and it was damn low in frequency and damn loud in the room. It was brief and no harm done. (To the speakers at least.)
Here are the real world specs of the Sub1500 including destructive testing courtesy of Giskard from an earlier thread.
Widget
I've got two Sub1500's still in the box waiting for cabs, but I use a third for live bass guitar. It's in in a 3.5 cu.ft. cabinet tuned to about 35 hz and I run it all night long with a Crest FA901 pushing 800 watts rms into 4 ohms. I do run a subsonic filter, though, otherwise slapping the strings would probably drive the coil clean out of the gap! No problems yet, and I've even seen the clip lights quite a bit...if that won't tear them up I don't know what will...
John
Alrighty then!
It appears JBL "has put the most watts to the sub1500"!
How does it sound in such an application?Originally posted by johnaec
I use a third for live bass guitar. It's in in a 3.5 cu.ft. cabinet tuned to about 35 hz and I run it all night long with a Crest FA901 pushing 800 watts rms into 4 ohms. John
Right now, I'm running it alone, so it doesn't like the higher harmonics too well, but on fundamentals up to 160hz it's basically OK. It does the higher harmonics when I EQ them up, but obviously not well. I've got a 10" E110 to pair it up with, but haven't put the combo cabinet together yet. But it's still very usable as is.Originally posted by mikebake
How does it sound in such an application?
John
What does the L1 and L2 value mean ? on the SUB1500 parameters?
gosh, you are putting alot of watts in those subs.. gosh !!
how much would an 2.5 sealed box need in watts
to produce efortless sound
I would say 800w min. those 1500s like alot of power.Originally Posted by Niklas Nord
gosh, you are putting alot of watts in those subs.. gosh !!
how much would an 2.5 sealed box need in watts
to produce efortless sound
How much cone-travel do you produce with 800watts
I use one for live bass guitar with 800 watts and commonly see the cone moving in and out over 1/2" each way, and sometimes even more when max'ing the lowest notes. I have a 24 db/octave filter below 30hz to keep from popping it out of the gap when slapping the strings... (could one be popped out or would the suspension prevent this?)How much cone-travel do you produce with 800watts
John
Doubt it would actually come out of the gap. The spider rips off the cone first anyway, I know this because I am a fool
What have you done?
Was testing a finished 85L sealed box for air leaks using 20Hz sine wave tone from a test CD i have. It was in a totally unlimited and unfiltered rig capable of giving about 1000w to the sub. The CD has sinewave tones at 10Hz intervals so the preceding track was 10Hz. The sub was running at pretty much max excursion and the test track was just coming to an end so i went to skip it back to the beginning but I jumped 2 tracks and sent it 1000 watts at 10Hz. It moved quite a lot and made a nasty sort of graunching, ripping, popping noise. I cried for about an hour. The cd even has "warning this track will F£$% your speakers if played loud" written on it next to the 10Hz track.
It still plays and doesn't rub even though the voice coil former must have hit the back plate pretty hard. The coil measures ok and doesn't look burnt (you get quite a nice view of it now) it just rattles now the spider is detached. There is a very small rip in the spider itself but otherwise there appears to be no other dammage. I have high hopes the my friendly local speaker repair man will be able to epoxy it back on. Harman UK don't even seem to know this driver exists let alone stock a recone kit. Anybody know the exact adhesive used to attach the spider to the cone?
I feel propper stupid now. Can I have a prize for putting the most watts at 10Hz through a sub1500 though? maybe a new one?
regs,
Olly "what limiter?" Rook
I believe someone posted info about the recone kit being available in a different thread.
With that kind of power, subsonic protection is your friend.
John
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
