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Thread: Olympus are at home

  1. #1
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Olympus are at home

    Yes you can put two C50 in the back of an SUV.


  2. #2
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Can a determination be made as to approx build date by the serial numbers: 48029 and 48030


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    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    Very Nice ! Keep the pics coming. I'm working on a few myself. Love to see yours progress!

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    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer View Post
    Very Nice ! Keep the pics coming. I'm working on a few myself. Love to see yours progress!
    These are being redone for me, so I'm not sticking to all original. The cabinets will be refinished, woofers refoamed, pulling the LE85/91 and putting 2405 in their place, then building either 2397 or Westlakes horns to sit on top of the cabs. I'll start with he LE85 while I look for some 2" drivers. The crossover will be from scratch. I will be using quarter sawn bubinga for the horns. You can see the wood standing by the cabs. It is a lot darker once oiled.
    Last edited by Wardsweb; 03-13-2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: typo

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    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    The serial numbers suggest building date late 1968 or early 1969.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  6. #6
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yggdrasil View Post
    The serial numbers suggest building date late 1968 or early 1969.
    Thanks !

    Now next questions: are the grill clips unobtanium? I am missing one.


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    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    That's normal, I'm missing a couple also and may have a source. Will advise!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer View Post
    Very Nice ! Keep the pics coming. I'm working on a few myself. Love to see yours progress!
    The refinish begins. Some sanding with with a random orbital and some 320 grit to smooth things out. The finish is so dry it just powders.


  9. #9
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    The other cabinet needed a little more attention. It wasn't bad but a few joints were loose so some glue and clamps to tighten it all back up.


  10. #10
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Sanded and oiled. I will let this set for a couple days and then finish with some DEFT lacquer.


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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wardsweb View Post
    SI will let this set for a couple days and then finish with some DEFT lacquer.
    Really?

    A pure oil finish is so beautiful, why add a layer of junk on it? Obviously you know how you live and have produced enough beautiful wooden works of art to know what you like, but still....


    Widget

  12. #12
    Senior Member Wardsweb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Really?

    A pure oil finish is so beautiful, why add a layer of junk on it? Obviously you know how you live and have produced enough beautiful wooden works of art to know what you like, but still....


    Widget
    I've never worked with only oil before. I guess I'm a creature of habit. I am open to suggestions, so is there some magic to this or just stop with the oil? Are there better oils? Boiled linseed? Etc...

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wardsweb View Post
    I've never worked with only oil before. I guess I'm a creature of habit. I am open to suggestions, so is there some magic to this or just stop with the oil? Are there better oils? Boiled linseed? Etc...
    I use Watco Danish Oil Natural color... you have to reapply after about a year... and then every few years, but it takes just a few minutes and makes the piece look new again. For a dining table or other piece of furniture that takes a fair amount of abuse a simple oil finish isn't such a great idea, but for speakers, unless you have small children you really don't have to plastic coat this stuff.

    I just really dislike most lacquer and urethane finishes on open grained woods like walnut.


    Widget

  14. #14
    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    I'm with the Widgemeister on this. I believe strongly in laquer finishes for wood veneers that has been damaged or is in harms way. In other words if I have a walnut JBL cabinet that has holes in in or or even veneer sanded through or peeled I have to use laquer to mask the cosmetic repairs that I'm doing. I have to have the various coats to mask what is going on underneath the finish. BUT when it comes to a simple grain finish on an open pore wood like Walnut or teak, oil looks so natural and beautiful. I'm a big fan of Boiled linseed oil applied with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper over a few days initialy and then only after that as needed.

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    Senior Member DavidF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer View Post
    I'm with the Widgemeister on this. I believe strongly in laquer finishes for wood veneers that has been damaged or is in harms way. In other words if I have a walnut JBL cabinet that has holes in in or or even veneer sanded through or peeled I have to use laquer to mask the cosmetic repairs that I'm doing. I have to have the various coats to mask what is going on underneath the finish. BUT when it comes to a simple grain finish on an open pore wood like Walnut or teak, oil looks so natural and beautiful. I'm a big fan of Boiled linseed oil applied with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper over a few days initialy and then only after that as needed.

    Me three with Widget and Audiobeer. Preference is fine, they are in your home. The luster of oiled wood is so much richer and, lacking non cliche words, organic. Besides, I can never get a raised finish so lush that it can't be confused with a high quality vinyl.
    David F
    San Jose

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